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Boiler, Hot Water Problem

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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Boiler, Hot Water Problem Reply with quote

So I moved into my new flat on Friday and the boiler pressure was at 0.5. Called the engineer and that was fixed, and a new clock was put on it.

Now my problem is, I heard a loud pop from the boiler and went to investigate, the pressure jumped up to over 3 and into the red zone. The boiler had no power as the switch tripped. I reset it and it went back down to 2.5 still in the red zone though, but within normal pressure according to the boiler instructions.

The hot water is set to 60, but it comes out hot and after a couple of minutes goes luke warm and doesn't heat up..

Anyone know what my problem is?

Edit the pressure is currently on 3.

Sorry if all jumbled up tried to explain the best I could.

Thanks Brendan
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A modern condensing boiler is in practice a horribly complex analog computer. You really need to get a heating engineer to check it out. There really isn't much you can safely or legally repair yourself since it's a gas appliance.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drain some of the water out of the heating system until the pressure is 1bar and make sure the fill tap is fully closed.

Whats the make n model of the boiler?
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Drain some of the water out of the heating system until the pressure is 1bar and make sure the fill tap is fully closed.

Whats the make n model of the boiler?


Don't know where to find or what any of those things look like..

The boiler is a Baxi -duotech combi 24he
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

easiest way to drain water out of a heating system is to use the bleed tap on the top edge of the radiator.

the fill tap on the boiler is highlighted.

https://i.imgur.com/VLNbwCf.png

Central Heating Primary Circuit
Pressures in bar

Safety Discharge 3
Max Operating 2.5
Min Operating 0.5
Recommend Operating 1-2
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opened that no change in pressure, There is a smaller tap that when turned the pressure increases Crying or Very sad I tried the one opposite that one and nothing.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I.Love.Chips wrote:
I have/had same problem. I have a house and two bathrooms, one has bath and one electric shower. The on with the bath is fine because got the boiler and electric shower keep tripping. Switch is in the garage .... Evil or Very Mad I been told that is electrical internal fault -I don't even know what does mean. I search on internet and bought a book...Your breaker might be faulty? The breaker is not good enough for the shower? Most newer power electric showers are at 240V and need 10-15 amps. A=W/240....let say 5kW shower requires 5000 / 240 amps - 21 amps, a 10kW shower requires 10000 / 240, or nearly 42 amps etc Smile Check yours and get it right.


https://i.imgur.com/Eu5P1Iy.gif
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 16:40 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I.Love.Chips wrote:
I have/had same problem. I have a house and two bathrooms, one has bath and one electric shower. The on with the bath is fine because got the boiler and electric shower keep tripping. Switch is in the garage .... Evil or Very Mad I been told that is electrical internal fault -I don't even know what does mean. I search on internet and bought a book...Your breaker might be faulty? The breaker is not good enough for the shower? Most newer power electric showers are at 240V and need 10-15 amps. A=W/240....let say 5kW shower requires 5000 / 240 amps - 21 amps, a 10kW shower requires 10000 / 240, or nearly 42 amps etc Smile Check yours and get it right.


I had a shower and a shave this morning the water was fine constantly at the same temp, it's only since the pressure increased and I heard the pop that its changed.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

bren_9311 wrote:
Opened that no change in pressure, There is a smaller tap that when turned the pressure increases Crying or Very sad I tried the one opposite that one and nothing.


opened what?

you dont want to fill the system any more because it is over filled....
you want to make sure the tap on the bottom of the boiler is fully closed.


do you know how to open a radiator bleed tap?
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I.Love.Chips wrote:
bren_9311 wrote:

I had a shower and a shave this morning the water was fine constantly at the same temp, it's only since the pressure increased and I heard the pop that its changed.


...keep it on the medium power problem solved Wink


How is decrease the pressure in the system?
oh wait, it's not.....
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
bren_9311 wrote:
Opened that no change in pressure, There is a smaller tap that when turned the pressure increases Crying or Very sad I tried the one opposite that one and nothing.


opened what?

you dont want to fill the system any more because it is over filled....
you want to make sure the tap on the bottom of the boiler is fully closed.


do you know how to open a radiator bleed tap?


What you highlighted, I do know how to but don't have a radiator key I assume you need one still?
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends, some of them have a slit across it where you can use a flat blade screw driver.

do you have a socket set, one of those should fit.

Here's a link to the manual for your boiler.
https://www.mainheating.co.uk/docs/Main_Combi_24_HE_Installation_and_Servicing_Guide_2011.pdf


Last edited by CaNsA on 16:52 - 23 Feb 2014; edited 1 time in total
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metalangel
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I.Love.Chips wrote:
bren_9311 wrote:

I had a shower and a shave this morning the water was fine constantly at the same temp, it's only since the pressure increased and I heard the pop that its changed.


...keep it on the medium power problem solved Wink


He's talking about the pressure in the boiler, not what setting he's turned his shower to!

Bren, I believe CanSA is suggesting you get a bucket and bleed a radiator into it to lower the water pressure in the whole system. I had an incompetent engineer do a service on my system and he did the same thing - when the system ran the needle went into the red because he decided to 'top it up' for me.

Obviously do this when the rads are cold, and don't worry about doing too much, you can add a little bit more later using the inlet (which should otherwise be CLOSED - is it a knob you can turn or is it something you need a screwdriver to turn?)
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres some picture maybe it'll give a better understanding.

The picture of the pipes, the second one from the right is the water inlet (closed?)

The little one on the left increases the pressure..
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Close the lower 2nd black tap from the right then go see if you still get hot water from the sink tap.

stop putting more pressure into the system for the love of god man.
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Close the lower 2nd black tap from the right then go see if you still get hot water from the sink tap.

stop putting more pressure into the system for the love of god man.


Closed it no hot water coming through. Cold still is.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jammin.

Turn the tap back to open.

You will need to release pressure out of the heating system.

the pressure has gone above the max limit and might end up pissing water out the safety drain.
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="CaNsA"]Jammin.



You will need to release pressure out of the heating system.

quote]

?

Since closing and re opening the tap, the pressure has gone back into the green zone just.. Water still not constant though.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

constant?

huh?
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 17:19 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
constant?

huh?


Constantly hot, comes out hot the drops temp. Becomes tepid.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

look on page 7 of the manual i linked above.

find the drain off point, item 7 on the diagram

drain off some water.
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
look on page 7 of the manual i linked above.

find the drain off point, item 7 on the diagram

drain off some water.


Missed that post..

How much though, what if I drain to much ect..
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Central Heating Primary Circuit
Pressures in bar

Safety Discharge 3
Max Operating 2.5
Min Operating 0.5
Recommend Operating 1-2
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done, pressure is normal now.

Still the same problem after about 30 seconds becomes tepid.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 23 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the central heating on and the radiators hot?

leave it 10mins then try the hot water again.
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