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Yay! wireing buchering time again!

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mr.z
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Joined: 04 Feb 2004
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 29 Dec 2004    Post subject: Yay! wireing buchering time again! Reply with quote

I'm just getting my gps wired back in again.. i'm fairly unfamilair with the ta(87) on my last bike i had the gps powered directly from the tail light (only come on with the ignition and headlights) worked perfectly for a year...

This time i'm going to run it off a relay, its just better that way Very Happy found a nice place for the relay to live, on an indicator mount... what i need is somewhere to feed the relay "switch" was thinking the front headlight, but which wire? i have the dipped beam on 99% of the time, so which wire will be "live" with the lights and ignition on? idealy somehting i can just use a scotchlock on and not remove any panels Very Happy incidentaly do any panels need to come off to take the tank off?

Another thing i'm doing is haveing it plug into a socket on the faring near the clocks, anything to be carefull of? drill on a slow setting be ok?

Attached is a wireing diagram, i though i'd found a goodun but not sure... (the headlight wires are easyish to access)
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Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 09:37 - 30 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the headlamp, Green is earth, Blue is main bean and White is dipped beam.
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binge
Emo Kiddy



Joined: 03 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 30 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I wired a bulb to my Digital Speedo I wired it to my dipped beam, and Realising after I wired it. It is usually darker when you have to use your high beem, So when I camt to a pitch black road, I put high beam on and out goes my speedo Light...

Have you got any dashboard lights, If you do then find a live to your clocks and scotch block it, and simply earth to frame...

<|Binge|>
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Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 12:00 - 30 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point binge Thumbs Up

Feed to the clock lights is Brown from that diagram
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 30 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

binge wrote:
If you do then find a live to your clocks and scotch block it, and simply earth to frame...

<|Binge|>


Don't scotch block anything! Put on proper terminals to save future grief.

I will have a proper look at the wiring diagram when I have a moment. From a quick check, the fan motor feed is looking quite promising as it is live all the time the ignition is on.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 08:48 - 31 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would try taking a feed to your relay off the the blue on Black wire going to the fan motor. Ideally from the fuse box but from where it connects to the fan should work too (which will be closer to your flasher for mounting the relay). It will most likley have a spade terminal which I would replace with a 'piggyback' spade terminal and connect your relay to this (easily removed if you want to). This wire is live all the time the ignition is 'on'

Piggyback Terminals (first one more readily available, second is better if you can find one as it requires no actual cutting of the loom)
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/terms-pre/Images/bpg.GIF https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/terms-non/Images/sbc.GIF

Do not connect to the black on blue wire going between the fan and the temperature switch as this will make the fan come on all the time.

I am not sure if this would affect the operation of the fan, I doubt it as the relay will draw next to nothing but it would be worth doing a functional check by shorting the wire that runs between the fan and the temperature switch to earth with the ignition on (fan should come on, relay should remain powered up).
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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mattsmith95
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Joined: 03 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 01 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

binge wrote:


Have you got any dashboard lights, If you do then find a live to your clocks and scotch block it, and simply earth to frame...

<|Binge|>


Scotchlock, not a good idea, as Stinkwheel points out, terminals or even soldering is a better and permanent solution. Scotchlocks will not last long, they do degrade and lose contact as I found out a few years ago.
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 01:35 - 02 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, Scotchblocking is good temporaraly...

Ive scotchblocked my Blue LEDs but im talkin them all off when I respray...

<|Binge|>
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mr.z
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Joined: 04 Feb 2004
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PostPosted: 02:28 - 02 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that all esp stinkwheel.


I had the last gps wired with scotchlocks, it was fine for a year, but then it was under the seat and kept well out of the filth! Very Happy

The fan fuse defenately looks promiseing (easy to get at too!) will have to have a good look at it, looks fiddley to get it off, some sort of odd plastic locking piece that i dont want to smash off Shocked

I'll let ye all know how it goes Wink
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 04:44 - 02 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You said about wireing it to a relay. What will that do?

<|Binge|>
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 02:20 - 03 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

binge wrote:
You said about wireing it to a relay. What will that do?

<|Binge|>


As i understand it, it reduces the load on the electrical system, also means that power is being taken off the battery and not the fan/lights or whatever.

I'm not entirely sure why but its just "the way" Very Happy another handy thing, theres no risk of leaveing anything on to kill the battery if it can only run with the ignition on, so worth it just for that imo!
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Davo
Davo To The Rescue!



Joined: 05 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 07:37 - 03 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

binge wrote:
You said about wireing it to a relay. What will that do?

<|Binge|>


Basically a relay is a switch, it's commonly used to turn on a high current supply with a low current supply and usually make a clicking sound in the process. You'll find one attached between your starter button and your starter motor.

By using a relay zero is intending to take the load of the rear light wiring, in that the light wiring would turn the relay on which would turn on a direct feed from the battery (guess). Much neater/safer way of doing things.
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