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| ice.shark |
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 ice.shark Nova Slayer
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| iooi |
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 iooi Super Spammer

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 Posted: 14:08 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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Lots of loose stuff then use the rear brake (if it locks up its a lot easier to control) and let the engine brake for you as well.
Seems you know how to use the front, by keeping it gentle and straight. ____________________ Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am...... |
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| ice.shark |
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 ice.shark Nova Slayer
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| CaNsA |
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 CaNsA Super Spammer

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 Posted: 14:16 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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Ah, didnt spot it was a 2stroke.
ignore my advice 
Last edited by CaNsA on 20:03 - 23 Mar 2014; edited 1 time in total |
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 ice.shark Nova Slayer
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| iooi |
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 iooi Super Spammer

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| CaNsA |
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 CaNsA Super Spammer

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| Fladdem |
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 Fladdem World Chat Champion

Joined: 29 Jun 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 16:56 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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DON'T ENGINE BRAKE ON AN RS125!
They are two stroke, yes? Engine braking means the revs are up, but the throttle is closed. This means you are getting a tick-over amount of oil lubricating the engine when it needs the same amount it would be getting at say 5,000RPM. This causes it to seize.
This is a problem with two strokes, most people don't know about them and how to ride them, thus they seem unreliable compared to the four strokes, when really they should be more reliable. No cam chain to break, no valves to stretch and connect with the piston, no oil filter to change, they should in theory require less maintenance, just a different sort. Instead of re-adjusting valves and stuff. the piston just gets changed, good as new.
I would also suggest, on a two stroke, not holding the throttle at the same position for too long, again this causes it to seize, also let it warm up properly before revving it to the moon, where it belongs.
As for the slipping. The only thing I can suggest for hitting gravel is just ride more. Like someone said, I don't know whether it's because I ride offroad a lot, but I have never had a bike with road tyres on, even my Varadero 125 had TKC80's on sometimes. So I am slipping all the time any way, even on nice dry even tarmac
I can say avoid the potholes as best you can, if it is inevitable, try to hit it straight, manhole covers are your enemy. On my commute to work I have learnt where they all are, so I can avoid them when I coming back in the dark.
DO you mountain bike? When you go down steep hills on one of them, with loose gravel or dust, you lean back, behind the seat, the back brake controls stability, the front controls speed, don't know why this works but it does. Chances are there aren't many places on the road steep enough to warrant it. I think you are just a bit nervous at the moment, you'll learn soon.
When you say the rear was losing grip, do you mean the wheel locked up or the brake was starting to fade. ON steep hills, I roll a bit, apply the brake, roll a touch more apply the brakes, and pulse it on the way down, instead of holding it lightly all the way, it reduces chances of over-heating the brakes I think. ____________________ Current:1991 Honda MT50 (Soon to be a H100/MTX/MT5 hybrid), 1976 Honda Cub C70, 2005 Honda Varadero 125, 1993 Yamaha TTR250 Open Enduro , 2010 Road Legal Stomp YX140, 1994 Honda CRM 250 MK III, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 1992 Honda CB400 Super Four, Stomp T4 230, 1984 Honda H100s, 2009 Sym XS125K
Past:2003 Aprilia RS125, 1982 Kawasaki GPZ550(FREE BIKE!)
I'm having more fun than a well-oiled midget. |
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| Vincent |
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 Vincent Banned

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| Wonko The Sane |
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 Wonko The Sane World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Jan 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 18:12 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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I tend to ride with the throttle slightly open using gearing to allow it to decend the hill but under power.
for example, using 2nd on the steep hills round here and 5-6k on and actually ride the bike down the hill, closing the throttle a little here and there to slow the bike if needed along with a gentle application of the brakes.
Nearly failed my mod 1 test as I had to sneak a bit of throttle back in to not stop short for the controlled stop having shut the throttle and using engine braking. ____________________ Looking to pass your CBT / Bike tests in Bury Lancashire? try www.focusridertraining.co.uk Would recommend.
They're also on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Focus-Rider-Training/196832923734251 |
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| iooi |
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 iooi Super Spammer

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| djrikki |
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 djrikki Brolly Dolly

Joined: 07 Nov 2013 Karma :  
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| Fladdem |
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 Fladdem World Chat Champion

Joined: 29 Jun 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 18:55 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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| iooi wrote: | | Fladdem wrote: | This is a problem with two strokes, most people don't know about them and how to ride them, thus they seem unreliable compared to the four strokes,. |
Mmm...
10 plus years riding 2 strokes from Ap50 upto one of the 1st LC350 to hit the roads in the UK....
I think I can safely say that in +50K miles that I have never seized a engine up.
Reliability is down to knowing how to maintain them, as much as how to ride them.
A few mins engine braking is not going to kill the engine. |
As two strokes aren't so popular now, I have only rode my MT5, a few crossers here and there and my mates NSR, but I ride them all the same, pull the clutch when I brake, don't keep the throttle pinned for ages, or held in the same spot. I don't know if I'm doing it right but never seized one, but my mate seizes his DT constantly.
Like you say, it's how you maintain it and how you ride it, but that's the same for everything. ____________________ Current:1991 Honda MT50 (Soon to be a H100/MTX/MT5 hybrid), 1976 Honda Cub C70, 2005 Honda Varadero 125, 1993 Yamaha TTR250 Open Enduro , 2010 Road Legal Stomp YX140, 1994 Honda CRM 250 MK III, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 1992 Honda CB400 Super Four, Stomp T4 230, 1984 Honda H100s, 2009 Sym XS125K
Past:2003 Aprilia RS125, 1982 Kawasaki GPZ550(FREE BIKE!)
I'm having more fun than a well-oiled midget. |
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| ice.shark |
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 ice.shark Nova Slayer
Joined: 06 Apr 2013 Karma :     
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 Posted: 20:22 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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| Fladdem wrote: | DON'T ENGINE BRAKE ON AN RS125!
They are two stroke, yes? Engine braking means the revs are up, but the throttle is closed. This means you are getting a tick-over amount of oil lubricating the engine when it needs the same amount it would be getting at say 5,000RPM. This causes it to seize.
This is a problem with two strokes, most people don't know about them and how to ride them, thus they seem unreliable compared to the four strokes, when really they should be more reliable. No cam chain to break, no valves to stretch and connect with the piston, no oil filter to change, they should in theory require less maintenance, just a different sort. Instead of re-adjusting valves and stuff. the piston just gets changed, good as new.
I would also suggest, on a two stroke, not holding the throttle at the same position for too long, again this causes it to seize, also let it warm up properly before revving it to the moon, where it belongs.
As for the slipping. The only thing I can suggest for hitting gravel is just ride more. Like someone said, I don't know whether it's because I ride offroad a lot, but I have never had a bike with road tyres on, even my Varadero 125 had TKC80's on sometimes. So I am slipping all the time any way, even on nice dry even tarmac
I can say avoid the potholes as best you can, if it is inevitable, try to hit it straight, manhole covers are your enemy. On my commute to work I have learnt where they all are, so I can avoid them when I coming back in the dark.
DO you mountain bike? When you go down steep hills on one of them, with loose gravel or dust, you lean back, behind the seat, the back brake controls stability, the front controls speed, don't know why this works but it does. Chances are there aren't many places on the road steep enough to warrant it. I think you are just a bit nervous at the moment, you'll learn soon.
When you say the rear was losing grip, do you mean the wheel locked up or the brake was starting to fade. ON steep hills, I roll a bit, apply the brake, roll a touch more apply the brakes, and pulse it on the way down, instead of holding it lightly all the way, it reduces chances of over-heating the brakes I think. |
That's one of the first things I learned about 2t 125s but see here:
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=3841618&highlight=#3841618
| Kickstart wrote: | Hi
Problem on a traditional 2 stroke with the oil mixed with the petrol is that when you are running with the throttle closed there is next to no petrol going though, so next to no oil. Hence the risk of a seizure.
With a pump 2 stroke system you should still be getting a half decent amount of oil supplied to the engine.
You adjust the pump a bit which should slightly increase the oil pumped through.
All the best
Keith |
So in theory, the pump should pump enough oil in the engine for the current rpm?
Actually, when I think about it, this doesn't make sense. If I close the throttle, there will be no air going into the engine and as far as I know, the oil is mixed with the fuel in the carburetor which is then mixed with the air so there will be no oil going in either. It also explains why the bike would be shaking if I try to engine brake - the piston won't move smoothly up and down.
Anyone care to clarify this? |
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| evoboy |
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 evoboy World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Aug 2009 Karma :    
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 Posted: 20:43 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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I try not to use too much engine braking on my 2stroke bikes.
In my mind, the pump will not be supplying enough oil at the higher, forced rpm that engine braking creates.
Dont care if it makes a difference or not, it kept my X7 alive on a 1300mile trip around the highlands!  ____________________ Suzuki GT250 x7------- Fazer 600------CB250RS------Aprilia Rally 70----- Bandit 600
APT Motorcycles |
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| Dave70 |
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 Dave70 World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Karma :   
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| MC |
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 MC Banned
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 22:41 - 23 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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You can't engine brake on a 2-stroke I'd crash a lot on one then. I got into the habit of not using my rear brake (as they wore out on my old 125), but you really should, although they don't do that much in normal stopping they help with stability (particularly in the wet).
Also I'm probably alone in this belief, but I'm not from the never touch the front brake whilst cornering camp. Using the front brake whilst cornering has saved my life a few times, obviously you don't grab at the brake lever, but if you have a feel for the brakes I don't see it as a problem.
[Disclaimer]I take no responsibility for any injury or damage to property from following this advice  ____________________ Yamaha MT-03 '08 (crashed)
Honda XR-125L '04 |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:49 - 24 Mar 2014 Post subject: Re: Going down slopes...braking |
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| s5s wrote: | I'm going around country roads with 50/60 speed limit (is that a good idea?). |
Dont see why not. They ought to have taken you down such roads during the 'on-road' elemnt of your CBT in fact.
Extracting pertinant facts:
| s5s wrote: | Today I went on a terrible road. |
| s5s wrote: | New rider here. I'm on CBT |
| s5s wrote: | riding an Aprilia rs 125. |
| s5s wrote: | The road was (a) full of potholes, really deep and long ones too; (b) the tarmac was really bad/patchy as well; (c) the road was dirty - lose gravel on it; (d) the road was very steep |
Road you have just described, sounds like typical unclassified country road, and when I was a kid, I could ride for miles and miles between villages without seeing a speed limit sign, implying it was all NSL 60mph......
Differentiate between what is legal and what is prudent!
CBT instructor probably advised you to always try and ride at or as close as practicably possible to the posted speed limit.....
Easy to miss or forget the bit underlined. And you ought to also have been advised of a couple of points on speed, like always riding at a speed in which you can stop in the distance you can see to be clear.
Most of the time, fact that we can ride or drive at or even above posted speed limits in wind rain and shine, and give little though to anything but the yellow piggy-bank boxes, actually suggests how, GOOD most of our roads are these days, despite how much we might moan about crap surfaces!
BUT, get onto scruffy, neglected gravel strewn country road? Well, these little 'exceptions' to the common convention become important.
These roads are often narrow, and twisty, and even if the tarmac was good, trying to maintain the legal speed limit would probably not be a great idea anyway.
So, apply advice. Slow down, travel at speed you can stop in distance you can see to be clear, don't try and do the speed limit, just cos it might be legal.
Next, gravel strewn and pot-holed. Not good flat grippy tarmac; what you are riding is more like an MX course than a GP curcuit, and you is on a GP styled bike. Its NOT going to be 'most' at home there.
But, you can still ride it; just dont try riding it like a GP circuit, racing into corners late on the brakes and trying to drag your knee on the deck as you go round!
Slow down, ride it like a dirt track. Like a dirt-bike, lifting weight off the saddle, standing or at least lifting bum, will add some extra 'suspension' in your knees, to help ride the bumps, like going over a speed-hump; also makes your weight more mobile, and you can let the bike 'pitch' beneath you as it does it, as well as, like an off-road rider, move weight back when going down inclines or forwards when going up, to improve traction.
Key is smoothness, and not doing anything hard or sudden; which means you dont have to necesserily go THAT slow, but, certainly you shouldn't be pushing it any!
Braking? Gravel, or mud or cos-shit covered, its all the same; its a 'reduced grip enviroment'.. same techniques apply as if riding in the wet on good tar. Smooth, progressive, and nothing sudden, and, like the wet, leaving more room and not putting on excess speed to have to brake to begin with.
"First Brake is the Third Brake" Rolling off the throttle, slows you down, it doesn't matter if its a two stroke or a four stroke, a multi-cylinder or a single, a V-Twin or a tripple.
How much drag, rolling off or closing the throttle, applies to the drive line, like braking is a function of many things; gearing, reciprocating inertia and moments there-of; engine displacement and compression ratio; all play thier part. Idea that two-strokes have very 'little' engine braking is not because they are a two-stroke, but because of other facets of the design; I have a 250cc two-stroke trials bike... has a fuck load more 'engine braking' than four-stroke twin road bike... to disprove the 'rule'; mainly due to having a fuck-off heavy flywheel and incredibly low gearing!
Also shouldn't hurt the engine, using what engine braking it may have. Certainly if the engine is in decent nick and looked after; especially one with a positive lubrication pump. My trials bike runs pre-mix, only oil it gets is when petrol is being sucked in; you close the throttle, stop petrol getting into the engine, it ent getting oil. Why it runs a pretty high pre-mix ratio around 35:1 because even when you have the throttle shut... SOME air is going to get sucked through the carb, SOME fuel and hence some OIL is going to get sucked into the crank case. Positive lube system? Well many, like the DT just dribble the pumped oil into the reed-block, but others, and I dont know if the Aprillia is actually one of them, have galery that takes it all the way to the mains, so even if you dont suck air, you get some 'splash' lube on the bits that matter.
Also, posi-pump, delivers metered measure of oil per rev; faster engine turning, more often it gets that dose. Shouldn't matter how quick the engine is spinning, pump, if properly adjusted OUGHT to be delivering oil the bearings need.
And; the throttle metering compensation? Throttle twist grip has second cable that changes oil feed as the throttle is opened. Often believed that that increases the oil feed as the throttle is opened. Actually often a little more sophisticated than that. My ;low-speed' pre-mix trials bike runs a ratio of 35:1, Ie a lot of oil to the amount of petrol. Racing Pre-Mix engines, with higher crank-speeds, though would run a much leaner ratio, 50:1 or less. Faster they turn, actually the less oil they need or the plugs will foul up. When they need extra oil is when under load, like accelerating, when extra pressure is put on the bearings. So more sophisticated posi-pumps can have a feed that leans with revs, but is increased, not with throttle position, but throttle opening/closing.
But bottom line; if you are going to sieze your motor, it will most likely be through ragging the arse of it and not servicing it properly; NOT using the thing as designed and slowing down by using the twist grip in your mit!
90% of riding a bike is in the right hand.
Its a twist-grip, its an analogue control, not an on-off-switch. Learn to use it.
And brake, as you should have been tought on CBT. Gentle progressive application of BOTH brakes, front always before back. In good conditions, more front, than back, as grip is reduced, more bias to the back, not necesserily from using the back harder, but from giving yourself more space and less speed to start with, so you use less front.
And practice practice practice. all comes with experience.
BUT, having harped on about appropriate speed and going slow.... MAKE PROGRESS, theres going slow and theres not bludy moving!
Gravel and crap road, yes it's not the nicest, BUT wheels roll over it!
Paranoid of the stuff shifting, trying to slow TOO much, loading the tyre, putting pressure on the gravel, THAT in itself is as likely to make it shift beneath your tyre as anything, and you get into a self feeding cycle of feeling the bike shift on the loose, slowing because it dont feel good, making it shift more, so trying to slow even more, and so on.
RELAX, don't use the brakes unless you really need to, and if you aren't going SO fast to begin with, let it roll, let the bike find its own path, DONT load stuff up and force it to slip under you.
Bit of a balencing act.... but THAT is biking, finding the balence point.
Confidence and Competance. Too little of one, too much of the other; thats when accidents happen. Being over cautiose can be as bad as being over cocky... its all about that point of balence.
Comes from practice and feel and experience; and that, unfortunately means putting it on the line and doing, risking to get the feel for it, to get the experience... and THAT is why you are allowed to ride on L-Plates; to get that 'practice'.
So go practice. Keeping your wits about you, and dont let either excitement or fear rule your reason; go with the flow and only try changing what needs to be changed.
And back to the top:-
| s5s wrote: | I'm going around country roads with 50/60 speed limit (is that a good idea?). |
No one MAKES you get on a bike. No one MAKES you ride certain roads. YOU choose where and when you ride, if at all.
If you aren't comfortable on those roads, YET, because you are so new to it all, and they are pretty shitty roads, and you dont feel comfortable on them.... dont ride them. Find other roads to practice on and build your confidence up; come back to them, when you have the inclination, try again, another day, to tackle the stuff you find more challenging, when you have more mastery of the stuff that comes easier.
Dont push yourself, its supposed to be fun; and you have a whole life to enjoy biking and theres plenty of time to find new challenges, so dont rush; rushing tends to be fast way to hurt when it comes to motorbikes. Enjoy where you are now, and go at YOUR pace. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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