Brake caliper lacquer?

[stevo as b4]

Hi, I'm just painting a refurbished KMX125 brake caliper, but was wondering what is the best clear coat to apply over a spray black base coat? I'm thinking I need a clear coat to protect the paint and stop it chipping off etc.

Would a high temp lacquer be best in this application, or a petrol/oil and hopefully brake fluid resistant type be better? This is the main reason I'm thinking I need it, to stop brake fluid stripping off the paint instantly.

Lastly where do people get their copper brake hose washer's from?

Thanks!

[delsol]

Lacquer gives good extra protection, properly applied it is a resilient coating.

Are you using matte, gloss or satin base coat?

Choose a matte, high gloss etc. lacquer for the finish you want.

The important thing is how compatible is the lacquer with the base coat paint, I've screwed up more paint jobs than I care to remember by using incompatible paint products.

Apply second and third coats of lacquer just before the previous coat is touch dry, spray something else with the lacquer, like another bit of metal or piece of plastic to test with your finger (you just want it to be tacky and not come off on your finger) so you know when to apply the next coat to the caliper.

Ask local automotive paint shop supplier for their recommendation as to what lacquer to use with the base coat paint you have already applied.

As for high temp lacquer, sure won't go wrong, assuming you have already applied the base colour coat - is that high temp paint? if not, why bother with high temp lacquer.?

With any paint finish, always protect with rags and clean off brake fluid spillage quickly.

Brake hose washers from any local car\bike motor factors, buy a pack of ten, won't go wrong, Halfords if you want to spend lots of moolah for the same thing.

[stevo as b4]

Hi, I've used 4coats of Project paint in metallic black as I'm trying to replicate the powder coating colour on the other bits I've been doing. The caliper looks ok, but I was going to leave the paint a week to harden indoors before applying the lacquer coats.

I could use Project paint clear coat that would be compatible, or a oil/petrol resistant clear coat from another brand. the base finish is fairly gloss, but not as much as the powder coat.

If it all goes tits up, then I'll just strip it all off and paint it with brush on black hammerite instead.