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Stubborn Screw

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TaeKwon125
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Stubborn Screw Reply with quote

Hey,

I'm trying to remove a screw on my cg and it is very stubborn, will not budge at all.

I tired initially, failed, left it with wd40 on it (to think about what it's done...), came back today, still no joy. It's now nearly rounded off too. Embarassed

I've attached a photo, it's about 10mm across.

Any ideas?

Sorry for the rookie question.

How do I go about finding a replacement after too? I have no idea how to identify fixings.

Thanks very much, Oliver.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you have a correctly fitting screwdriver.

Try tightening it up slighty, not loads just a bit, if it moves you should be able to unscrew it.
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SQL
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Re: Stubborn Screw Reply with quote

TaeKwon125 wrote:
Hey,

I'm trying to remove a screw on my cg and it is very stubborn, will not budge at all.

I tired initially, failed, left it with wd40 on it (to think about what it's done...), came back today, still no joy. It's now nearly rounded off too. Embarassed

I've attached a photo, it's about 10mm across.

Any ideas?

Sorry for the rookie question.


How do I go about finding a replacement after too? I have no idea how to identify fixings.

Thanks very much, Oliver.


Use an impact driver
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try some proper penetrating oil as WD40 is just water displacement and a little protection.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If an impact driver doesn't work (it's pretty damaged by now). Tapping it round using a punch ought to work.

Applying heat to the area with a heat gun or a blowlamp will also help massively. aluminium expands much more quickly than steel.

Once you get it out, you'll be able to measure the width and length of the screw. I think that's the speedo or rev counter cable retaining screw right? In which case it'll be a standard pitch, metric set screw. Diameter of the threaded part to the outside of the threads in mm is the thread size.

So say it is 5mm wide and 40mm long (pure guess), you'd want an M5x40 set screw.

As you've just found, posidrive/crosshead/JIS heads aren't the most robust for that application. I'd replace it with a socket head cap screw (a type of setscrew that takes an allen key in its head).

So say my dimensions were correct (which they probably aren't), what you'd want is an "M5 x 40mm socket head capscrew" go into a fastener shop and ask for one or type that into ebay and you'll come up with the correct thing.
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Busa1340R
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If all else fails........

Get someone to hold the wheel/forks firmly.....

Sharp centre punch and a medium sized hammer.....

Couple of sharp taps straight in to screw close to outer edge of head to give punch something to work on.....then using that punch hole at edge of screw head hold punch at about 45 degree angle and knock screw right to left (anti clockwise)

Usually works for me......never got on with impact drivers😕[/u]
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's also likely to have a countersunk head. You will need to mention this when ordering a replacement. You'll also need to take it into account when measuring the fastener.
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raesewell
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

By all accounts Plusgas is much better than WD40
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get some decent screwdrivers that can be hit with a mallet,
make sure you get the biggest but best fit and gently tap the screwdriver, most can then be turned by a spanner as you press against it to stop it slipping.
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whilst what everyone else has suggested is helpful, I had the same problem, with the same speedo cable screw on my CG.

In the end I failed, but the mechanic succeeded, with a hot air gun and directed blowtorch, didn't leave a mark on the surroundings either so fair play to him.

Also as far as little screws n shit for your bike.
This website is good for finding parts...
https://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=13KCHWU1&block_02=E__0800&block_03=1992
Check you've selected the right year model for your bike.
The annoying part of the site is to get the correct part number you have to modify the URL once youre on the right page.
So you find your bike part from the pictures then in the link delete the "_pfk" bit in the middle, and reload.
Now you will have a usable honda part number instead of some useless PFK number.

Then you can use the Honda part number on this site to order...
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/by-part-number/

If I have explained this badly, someone else please clarify as I'm not the best teacher, just passing on useful stuff someone told me. Smile
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesnt alloy expand under heat so tighten the threads on the screw ?
thats why the gas or even lighter fluid to cool the area would be better.
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blowtorch and try again. Failing that, use a punch to mark a hole in the middle, and with a drill bit that is smaller than the screw, drill a hole and use a reverse thread or screw/bolt extractor

such as these - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/Speciality+Drills+Chucks/Screw+Bolt+Extractor+Set+5+Piece/d80/sd1400/p51010
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:52 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:
Doesnt alloy expand under heat so tighten the threads on the screw ?
thats why the gas or even lighter fluid to cool the area would be better.


You're expanding it not inflating it. The ally and all of the part's features, including holes, will grow in size.

Isn't that a countersink screw? I would be careful about punching it, especially by unskilled hands. You might end up staking it instead which is specifically meant for preventing fasteners coming un-done.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

could try tapping the head (with a hammer) of the screw flatter so you get more "purchase" with your screwdriver

could also try tapping your screwdriver when its in the screw for a better grip
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's really stuck and you can get hold of a replacement drill the head out, hammer in a starbit and unscrew it using a socket wrench.
That's how I got the same screw out of my XL 125 brake plate.
Worked first time with no damage to anything other than the screw.
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FriendlyEllis
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used these before with success

https://www.amazon.co.uk/High-Street-TV-Grabit/dp/B008VPRD8S/ref=sr_1_3/278-4596533-5875765?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1396016417&sr=1-3&keywords=grabit+screw+remover
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another shout on the Grabits, recently shagged the head on my sprocket cover screws and whipped it right out.
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TaeKwon125
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Thanks very much for all of your replies.

I got a punch today and kept it as a back up, giving me the opinion that I could really go at the screw.
I hammered in a flat headed screwdriver really deep after soaking it in a bit of oil and it came out by hand with a lot of force.

Glad I didn't have to borrow/buy a heat gun and resist the temptation to set something on fire. Twisted Evil

Connected the new speedo cable, checked it rotates when the front wheel is spun (it does) and connected it to the speedo. Nothing. Sad

The cable is pushed into the back of the speedo (it's about an inch proud of the cable sheath). secured on both ends, but still no speed recorded when the bike is moving.

Any suggestions apart from the obvious "buy new clocks"? I'd prefer it not to be one these "I've got the old clocks to prove the mileage" bikes if I can help it.

Commuter_Tim, thanks very much for that website, ordered some fixings I needed for it from David Silver Spares. It'll be a real help next time something goes caput!

Cheers again, Oliver.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 28 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now go and buy an impact driver for your toolkit. It'll save you a lot of grief with recalcitrant screws in the future. Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:47 - 29 Mar 2014    Post subject: Re: Update Reply with quote

TaeKwon125 wrote:


Connected the new speedo cable, checked it rotates when the front wheel is spun (it does) and connected it to the speedo. Nothing. Sad

The cable is pushed into the back of the speedo (it's about an inch proud of the cable sheath). secured on both ends, but still no speed recorded when the bike is moving.

Any suggestions apart from the obvious "buy new clocks"? I'd prefer it not to be one these "I've got the old clocks to prove the mileage" bikes if I can help it.


It's an old CG with rusty spokes, the clock mileage doesn't mean much in the grand scheme but having a working speedo is a great benefit. Clocks are easy to test - put the cable end in and give it a flick with your fingertips. If the needle jumps it works. They are also a very simple device so if it doesn't work then chances are it'll be easy to repair.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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FriendlyEllis
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 29 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds funny but check you've not installed the cable upside down, especially if you've had the core of the cable out of its housing.

This happened to me as a boy on my (ahem) Honda Melody 😀
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 29 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's also very easy to flatten the two small tangs on the pressed steel plate in the speedo drive that engage with the hub as you're fitting the wheel.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 29 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impact driver. Just learn to use one properly before you destroy things.
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Tamsin
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 29 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Half the fun of being young and dumb (no offence here OP) is destroying things though Laughing
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