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Fork seals

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Benjums
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 12 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Fork seals Reply with quote

Afternoon all, just got back from a nice ride out for a couple of hours and after doing the usual checks when I pulled up at home I have noticed I have some leaky fork seals, looking online they are cheap enough but there seems to be as many ads for just seals as well as seals and fork oil.
I'm just wondering if it pays to change the oil at the same time as the seals?
I'm riding a 2001 bandit with 33k on the clock so oil prob hasn't been changed at all.
Thanks for your help again.
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

May aswell change. Just thimk about the time it would take to get the front end off again to change the fork oil.

While the forks are off, you may aswell refresh everything you can.
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P.addy
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 16:14 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Genuine seals, don't buy cheap shit.

Oil, same time, bushes if they are worn also.

Might be worth sending off if you really can't be bothered to do it Laughing
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Wot 'e said!!!

Take a little extra time and clean up everything finishing with new oil. The likelihood of having to remove the old oil is fairly high and only a dirty so and so puts old oil back in forks (or anywhere else for that matter)
Awaits Paddy's input Wink

Edit: poo, he beat me to it and said new oil too!!!
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Benjums
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 12 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all, so looking at general oem parts, is 1l of fork oil enough to do both? Oh and bushes? I'm not known for my mechanical knowledge or expertise, but am learning quickly, now feel quite confident in doing the basics as I seem to have bought my bandit just when things need to start being replaiced. Not minding too much though as it's giving me good experience.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haynes book of lies should give you some idea for working on them.

CMSNL have a great site for looking at parts as everything is displayed on nice helpful fiches (gives you a good idea of OEM prices for parts as well) with OEM part numbers to make sure you get the right ones

Bushes would definitely be a good idea on a machine with 33K
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Benjums
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ideal thanks mate. Not bothered with a Haynes book, luckily I'm good friends with a few bikers, of which ones a mechanic (only trouble is getting hold of him) Rolling Eyes

Edit :- are leaky fork seals a mot failure?
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said get decent seal - used Wemoto in the past for the Fazer - good supplier.

Also reconsider the haynes manual, you can pick 'em up for a tenner on the bay for a bandit. (Or downlaod from the bandit forum) Don't rely on a mate always helping you, buy and get stuck in. Fork seals are a nice easy starting job.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 02 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re: MOT. A tester will fail then if he can see they're leaking, all depends upon the severity of the leak and how lenient your tester is. Better to do them before and have a good check over the rest of the bike (another reason to get a Haynes as it has an MOT checklist in the back).
As Janner has said you're still better off finding a manual rather than relying on a mate, it makes things easier for jobs you're not used to and there'll be times when you want to do odds and sods to the bike and your mate is nowhere to be found.
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Benjums
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PostPosted: 08:20 - 03 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right you've convinced me Haynes Manuel being ordered in a min.
What's the idea of progressive springs then? Money is a bit on the clip side at the min cause I got the mot for my van, bike and a holiday to turkey (the outlaws are coming as well as the kids Sad )
So they may have to wait until we get back.
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 03 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget to remove the damper bolt from right underneath the legs before you even attempt to loosen/remove the top nut otherwise it ends up spinning and you'll end up needing the special tool or a bodged version to get them stripped.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 04 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

For most bikes it would be very difficult to change the fork seals without changing the oil.

All the best

Keith
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Benjums
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PostPosted: 07:44 - 04 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the help everyone much appreciated.
One final question (I have tried google but keep getting different answers) I don't suppose anyone knows the air gap that's ment to be in the forks and if that air gap is with the springs in or out?
I have ordered the Haynes Manuel but Sod's law says it won't be here by tomorrow morning or sun when I want to try and do this.

Much appreciated as always

Ben
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 04 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air gap for your Mk2 600 is 112mm, springs out and legs fully compressed.
They take just over 500ml each side just to make it awkward so you need a bit over a litre of 10w if you're staying at OE oil weight.
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Benjums
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Joined: 12 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 04 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks bezzer, yea am staying a oe oil, that's a bit of a pain at 521 ml only bought 1l the other day, oh well go pick up some more then.
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