Cycling virgin

[-Matt-]

So... the time has come to buy a bicycle. I've not really cycled properly since I was a teenager and that was just messing around on whatever bike I could get my hands on. I'm looking to get something I can use for a couple of mile commute/shopping around mainly town-traffic, but if it can double up for some other leisure activities that would be good [hybrid bike I believe would be the term ]. Masterplan is it will allow me to no longer need a car.

Anything anyone can recommend - my first thought was to just buy second hand but have been put off by a few people saying so much can/is wrong with a lot of second hand bikes its false economy and i'd be best getting a cheap new one. Budget is around 50-100 quid, perhaps a little too optimistic

I've bought a fair bit of other stuff already for it - lights, reflectors, mudguards, drink and holder, seat/bar luggage bag things, pump, D lock, helmet, waterproofs. Anything else majorly obvious i'm missing. Is it worth buying spare inners/tyres in advance, or just patching up punctures as and when they occur.

Also, how bad an idea is it to cycle on the pavement. Am I likely to get chased down by police if I cycle past them stuck in traffic. Theres quite a few long empty pavements with full visability on the potential routes so i'd have tons of time to dismount/get back on the road if pedestrians are ahead - expect it would make it a lot quicker and easier than darting amongst the traffic, if its possible that is.

[Rigga]

At that budget you are not going to get anything near decent if bought new, so you definitely need to be looking at second hand. If you can up your budget by 50 - 100 you can get some real bargains on ebay, gumtree local free ads etc. Hybrid or a mountain bike will be fine,obviously mtb will be a bit more robust and stick some knobblies on it and good for a bit of off roading.

Regarding punctures I only ever usually have one spare tube as an emergency. I normally change the tube at the time then repair the punctured one when I get home, this then becomes my new spare.

There are loads of second bargainous bikes, clothes and accessories on ebay etc. Deffo worth a look.

Edit: sorry forgot to mention cycling on pavements, I sometimes do it if the pavement is empty and nice and wide. Never do it if it's busy with pedestrians. Police have seen me hop on the pavement before and not said owt.
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Current bike: Honda CBR 1100xx

[-Matt-]

This is whats been quite confusing [particularly for search results] for me so far. Is there such thing as a generic 'bike' or would that usually be classed as a road/race bike, and the rest are hybrids/MTBs.

Ideally i'd be after a MTB as it would give me a lot more options outside commuting, but I wasn't sure if they're not very comfortable or usable for road riding. It is only a few miles a day max, but some is up hill so I wasn't sure if the gearing etc would be suitable for flat roads over distance.

I'm lucky in that most of the local roads have nice wide cycle areas the majority of the route, but the few sections that haven't are long wide pavements with no shops/buildings, so short of someone diving over a wall from a field i'd have loads of warning before potentially hitting anyone, which is whats making me consider just cycling on them - less time on the road the better while i'm getting used to it I figure

Going to have to put bar mirrors on also I think, or it will feel very weird after years of riding motorcycles with mirrors on the road

[Rigga]

A mtb with slick tyres on will be spot on for commuting. If it has front suspension you can usually lock the front forks out anyway. Gearing will be fine too. I wouldn't bother with a hybrid, I'd get a mtb and put a pair of slick tyres on. You can have more fun on a mtb
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Current bike: Honda CBR 1100xx

[stinkwheel]

Any new bike you get for £100 will be an utter pile of shite.

See if you have a local bicycle recycling charity. Most areas have one. They train offenders to repair bicycles using bikes which have been recovered by the police/council and never claimed.

That's about the only place you'll get a bike worth having for your budget with a reasonable confidence it's going to work.

If your profile is up to date, a quick google shows there's one in Bournemouth and One, Two in Bristol.

You could probably get a second hand bike elsewhere worth having for that but you'd need to know what you were looking for. I'd be looking at a 1980's racer with the gearshift on the frame (seriously unfasionable these days).

Or perhaps something like one of the old Raleigh Pioneers, they were the first of the hybrids. Heavy and not particularly fancy but they just keep on going, you see a lot of them about being used as daily beaters. They made a version with reynolds 501 steel tubing on the frame which is tough as old boots. They use antiquated Shimano sis gearing which can be replaced for beer money if it goes wrong (literally less than a tenner for a tourney sis shifter + mech for example)

I made a bike for the Mother in Law based on one on the basis that it will get zero maintainance, be thrown down on the drive when she gets home and bumped up and down kerbs with impugnity. They do them with a proper, straight corssbar too.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/pioneer/CIMG0852.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[-Matt-]

Excellent thats what I was hoping to hear really, as I would like to get into cycling stuff generally so if I can do it 'all in one' with a relatively cheap bike that would be perfect.

I think I may of underestimated the complexity of bikes though, have noticed places offering 'bike servicing' and stuff having looked around - I thought it was pretty much spray the cables/chain and keep the tyres full of air, is there a fair bit more to it

Presuming I go new to avoid knackered out used bikes, would Halfords and the obvious be a safe bet, or is online/small private shops often worthwhile checking through.

[Rigga]

[-Matt-]

Thanks Stink will look into that

Think I may try up the budget a little, sounds like its going to make a big difference. Its going to be used relatively often for at least a year or two so makes sense to get something half-decent and good condition I guess.

Especially if MB's and the like are an option now too it may well get quite a lot of harder use if I get into that side of things so think the real budget-used stuff is ruled out

[stinkwheel]

I personally think you're barking up the wrong tree looking for a mountain bike.

If the intention is to make a bicycle your main, round town transport for everyday use. You need a bike that's designed for riding round town or you'll start resenting it.

Last year I loaned a bloke my single speed road bike because the freewheel had packed in on his mountain bike just before a local charity road ride (speed and distance are not the issue, it's more of a scavenger hunt). He didn't want to give it back afterwardsbecause he hadn't realised how hard he was making it for himself by riding a mountain bike into work.

If you buy a mountain bike and fit road tyres, you can no longer use it for offroad biking without changing the tyres back again. You have, in effect, made a mountain bike into a road bike with wide tyres, small wheels, the wrong gearing and an inefficient riding position. If you don't change the tyres and ride about on knobbly tyres you're a fool who is fast going to get fed up biking to work.

I wouldn't ride a mountain bike on the road any more than I'd ride a racer bike round Maybie forest. Yes you COULD but in each case, you'd be making life difficult for yourself.

As such, if your primary use for the bike is to ride it on the road, buy a road bike. You'll be able to use it well enough for mild offroad stuff as long as you keep off the single track stuff.

One of those recycling places will probably let you take bikes out for a test ride if you leave them a deposit. Try several different bikes and see what suits you.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[-Matt-]

On the note of wheels - how complex is a wheel change on bikes generally. Am I right in thinking most fronts are clip release so its just the back that requires tools. I presume using nobblies on the road is a big no-no especially in winter months

The route i'll be using shops/work wise is 1-2 miles for each, 90 percent of which is cycle-laned and flat, its just literally one or two short hills that might cause an issue, this is whats made me wonder if I could 'endure' a MB for the daily commute.

It definately makes sense what you're saying about using an inappropriate bike for road conditions, just wondering if for such short distances and 'easy routes' it might be tollerable, especially if it saves regular wheel changes and so on if I do end up getting into the mountain-biking side of things in my spare time etc.

[smegballs]

I got my "road" bike and old steel framed 80's thing for 65 quid from a house clearancy "indoor car boot" kind of place.

In the last two years, I've spent.

£7 - Chain
£10 -Sealed BB from Go Outdoors
£7 - Bar Tape
~£3 - Wilkos brake pads.
£6 - Megarange freewheel to help on hills

I cleaned and repacked the wheel and steering bearings when I got it, but didn't replace them. It's fun to ride and gets me around time quicker than the motorbike can for some routes in rush hour.

I actually really recommend Go Outdoors bike stuff for cheap end bikes. I built my "touring" (a steel framed rigid mtb with slicks) with parts from GO last summer for my tour around portugal. You can rinse them really hard as they will price match amazon! I'd go in armed with a load of amazon print outs and they would give me stuff way lower than their list price. All the stuff was low end shimano tourney gear, but I rode around portugal for 2 months last summer without so much as singly puncture!

[Al]

Halfords have the Carrera subway which they class as a hybrid, but its basically a mountain bike with road tyres for £189 at the moment.
I've had mine since 2008 without any problems and use it for popping into town ect. I've got another full suspension bike for off roading but prefer the subway for anything else.
I think I paid £210 for mine originally but got some free shit with it.
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Yamaha FZR400RR 3tj
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[bamt]

[bamt]

[instigator]

It may be wise to check the condition of the routes you would be taking before making a decision. I did this and chose a MTB over a road bike purely for it's ability to soak up the bumps better. The roads over here in South West Belgium are horrific and anything without front adjustable suspension would be torture. I really want a road bike/racer but have to admit defeat for this very reason. It sucks

[defblade]

[ninja_butler]

I've got one similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/City-Bike-Marin-San-Rafael-19-24-speed-Ideal-Commuter-Comfy-Treks-Outings-/190870523001?nma=true&si=QHSnZgXs5NQdtoa8CI%252FmKeiqaaw%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Mine is an older version and it needed a damned good clean when I bought it, but it cost me about £60 plus a set of new brake pads.

Definitely do not buy a new bike if your top budget is £100, you will NOT get a real bike for that money. Get a secondhand brand-name bicycle. Scrapes and rust on the frame and forks don't matter too much, but check that it changes gears smoothly and the crank (the pedals) don't wobble; if there is play in the crank, the bearing will need replacing. Buy a new set of brake pads, chances are any secondhand bike you buy will have perished brake pads or cheap crappy ones.

Choose the correct frame size. Your height may have changed so check your height and the inseam of your leg, and it really helps if you can actually take the bike for a test ride. I've got a classic 3-speed Raleigh bicycle which I like a lot but the frame is just a little bit too big and it makes riding uncomfortable.

[-Matt-]

Decided i'll probably focus on getting a road for now as its almost entirely tarmac cycle path/roads on my routes - will up the budget a bit too so I don't get something too useless.

If I particularly get into the MB side of things i'll probably go cheap-skate second hand on that at least at first just to check its something I want to pursue properly then get a second bike if needs be as theres plenty of space in the flats stairwell to chain them and its locked to anyone outside the block.

Thanks for all the info's

[ninja_butler]

I forgot to add, cycling on the pavement is all down to discretion and common sense. If there are people on the pavement then you ride very slow or get off and walk. I cycle on the pavement a lot but never where there are a lot of people around or the path is too narrow to pass pedestrians safely. If in doubt, stop.

I've never had any trouble from the police but I ride on empty pavements at minimum speed.

[chris-red]

I'd rather ride my road bike offroad than do decent road distance on my MTB.

It's hard but fun!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1.0-9/149058_10151537272923476_179219759_n.jpg
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
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[Ste]

Pavement cycling is slow. You'll make much better progress if riding on the roads assuming you don't ride in the gutter at 2mph.

Slow traffic isn't a reason to go on the pavement, just overtake the traffic.

For commuting you'll want to get some puncture resistant tyres. I got about 4 years puncture free with a set of Continental Travel Contact mtb tyres. Their grip in the wet was a bit shit but never getting punctures made up for it. They were puncture resistant enough that I didn't need to ride around broken glass.

[-Matt-]

Out of interest how common are punctures on standard tyres - is it the usual that gets bikes and cars like nails but they tend to gather at the side of the road where you cycle, or are things like sharp sticks even a hazard sometimes

[clancy]

[Ste]

On the roads it's mostly just glass that you're watching out for. Al the crap on the roads ends up in the gutter so that's a good reason to not ride in the gutter.

You can get punctures from thorns but that's more of a problem on towpaths and when mountain biking than it is for road cycling.

As to how common punctures are, that depends on luck and how eagle eyed you are at spotting potential causes of punctures. You need to be fairly eagle eyed to avoid dog eggs.

Puncture resistant tyres win, just as long as they're not crap ones as I've had some MTB offroad ones that didn't seem to be at all resistant to punctures.

[Rigga]