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In situ spark plug thread repair

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koolio
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: In situ spark plug thread repair Reply with quote

I just rebuilt a CB500T engine that I bought in bits and I did not notice that the RHS spark plug has actually been cross threaded.

It's going to be a real headache to pull it out of the frame, break the cam chain and take the head off to helicoil it.

Can I get away with drilling out the old threads and helicoiling it with both valves closed? Or do I really just have to take the head off.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 04:50 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been done many times over. You can weigh up the odds yourself, but personally I would just do it and use a small piece of hose to hoover out as much debris as I could before cranking. There's a small chance that some swarf might get caught in a valve seat but that's it.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 05:20 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it worth running a correct size tap through first to see if you can clean up what's there, or is it a complete gonner?
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Jim painter
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PostPosted: 07:05 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have to drill and tap/helicoil put some grease on the drillbit and the tap. It helps the swarf stick to the bits rather than falling in side. Don't drill all in one go so you can keep cleàning the swarf off.

Jim
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koolio
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys thanks will try it.. I am terrified about the valve seats however.

c_dug wrote:
Is it worth running a correct size tap through first to see if you can clean up what's there, or is it a complete gonner?


I might try that, but I think it's optimistic.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the piston being at tdc to keep the valves closed you want to be sure not to drill into the top of it too.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would do it at BDC with a small pipe gaffer taped to the vac. This way you can get into the corners.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 05 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A Thread 'Saver' might be worth a try. Unlike a tap, it has no cutting edge, so re-forms the metal back into the thread, without making swarf.. One I have is about the size of a spark plug and fits in plug spanner... so if you can get a sparker in the hole, you can get a thread saver in there. May be worth a shot, if its only a couple of start threads crossed.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 06 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I've done it in situ...I used a compressor to blow any debris out the exhaust valve...didn't need to drill it first as the tap was designed to cut from std plug size to insert size. It's worked fine the few times I've been asked to do it!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 06 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
A Thread 'Saver' might be worth a try. Unlike a tap, it has no cutting edge, so re-forms the metal back into the thread, without making swarf.. One I have is about the size of a spark plug and fits in plug spanner... so if you can get a sparker in the hole, you can get a thread saver in there. May be worth a shot, if its only a couple of start threads crossed.


What you're describing is a roll tap, or thread-forming tap. It might work as a get-you-home but with the thread stripped and metal gone you couldn't rely on it.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 06 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not? (genuine question)

Tef did stipulate if it was only the first couple of threads were crossed.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 11 years, 277 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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