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YBR125 fork disassembly

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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: YBR125 fork disassembly Reply with quote

Bit of a problem with the fork seals on my other half's YBR. I took the fork off, loosened the end cap and damping rod and then took the end cap off. Now I can't get the two halves apart. What do I need to do to separate the stanchion from the lower bit?

Cheers,
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove the circlip on the seal, just above it, then use brute strength to pull it apart.

Easiest way, wrap lower in bubble wrap/rags and tape. Put something that you can tie up through the spindle hole and tie it to something solid, gate post or what not and give the upper bit some solid tugs with a pair of marigolds on, you look a tit but it will pull it apart and your lower won't get damaged when it swings down if you've wrapped it up well enough.
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Paddy, that's very helpful.
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Re: YBR125 fork disassembly Reply with quote

Slacker24seven wrote:
Bit of a problem with the fork seals on my other half's YBR. I took the fork off, loosened the end cap and damping rod and then took the end cap off. Now I can't get the two halves apart. What do I need to do to separate the stanchion from the lower bit?

Have you actually removed the damping rod bolt?

It won't come apart if it's just loosened. You need to remove the bolt from the bottom of the fork.

If it just turns and won't come out, the easiest way to remove it is an impact wrench.
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Re: YBR125 fork disassembly Reply with quote

barrkel wrote:
Slacker24seven wrote:
Bit of a problem with the fork seals on my other half's YBR. I took the fork off, loosened the end cap and damping rod and then took the end cap off. Now I can't get the two halves apart. What do I need to do to separate the stanchion from the lower bit?

Have you actually removed the damping rod bolt?

It won't come apart if it's just loosened. You need to remove the bolt from the bottom of the fork.

If it just turns and won't come out, the easiest way to remove it is an impact wrench.


No, the rod won't come out, it just turns. I'll get the impact on it in a bit and report back.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 16:37 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re-add the cap, compress the fork.

Alternatively you can jam something down the open tube to try and lock it. I've known people to use broom handles Neutral

I tend to just do it up, turn upside down and put my body weight on it whilst turning the bolt.
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Re: YBR125 fork disassembly Reply with quote

Slacker24seven wrote:
No, the rod won't come out, it just turns. I'll get the impact on it in a bit and report back.

You need something that's able to give a good whack of speed - usually either a corded impact wrench or an air gun. Also, getting the right bit for the impact driver - long enough - to reach the bolt is sometimes awkward. I use a cut-down hex key (so that it's more of a hex rod) combined with an impact socket of the same size as the key.

I never had much luck with the broom handle etc. techniques when I did the forks on my ER6f.

Your local garage will probably remove the bolt for you for free if you're still having trouble.
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Re: YBR125 fork disassembly Reply with quote

barrkel wrote:
Slacker24seven wrote:
No, the rod won't come out, it just turns. I'll get the impact on it in a bit and report back.

You need something that's able to give a good whack of speed - usually either a corded impact wrench or an air gun. Also, getting the right bit for the impact driver - long enough - to reach the bolt is sometimes awkward. I use a cut-down hex key (so that it's more of a hex rod) combined with an impact socket of the same size as the key.

I never had much luck with the broom handle etc. techniques when I did the forks on my ER6f.

Your local garage will probably remove the bolt for you for free if you're still having trouble.


Still not out. I might have to resort to a professional!!
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done it!!! Turns out, you need a long T70 bit on about 3ft worth of 3/8" extension bar.

Next problem: the seal has perished and disintegrated completely. I've pulled most of it out and but theres plenty of broken horrible old seal left in it, including under the lip of the inside of the fork lower.

MOT on Friday. This isn't looking so good.

Neutral
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moonzoomer
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slacker24seven wrote:
I've done it!!! Turns out, you need a long T70 bit on about 3ft worth of 3/8" extension bar.

Next problem: the seal has perished and disintegrated completely. I've pulled most of it out and but theres plenty of broken horrible old seal left in it, including under the lip of the inside of the fork lower.

MOT on Friday. This isn't looking so good.

Neutral
use a blowtorch to burn it out
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 06:03 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

moonzoomer wrote:
Slacker24seven wrote:
I've done it!!! Turns out, you need a long T70 bit on about 3ft worth of 3/8" extension bar.

Next problem: the seal has perished and disintegrated completely. I've pulled most of it out and but theres plenty of broken horrible old seal left in it, including under the lip of the inside of the fork lower.

MOT on Friday. This isn't looking so good.

Neutral
use a blowtorch to burn it out


Whilst I have a blowtorch, I thought rubber gave off bad chemicals like hydrofluric acid when burnt?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 06:40 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think it does but either way it won't kill you, unless you're doing it in a broom cupboard.
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 08:03 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petrol, blowtorch and do it outside. Problem solved Mr. Green
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 30 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certain types of 'O' rings are definitely known to produce Hydrofluoric Acid when melted.
HydroFluoric acid only stops eating through the skin when it hits the bone.
You do not want even a microscopic droplet finding its way onto bare skin and you certainly don't want to breath it down into your lungs or get any fumes near your eyes.

Speak to your local firefighter for the definative answer, they are well versed in self preservation when it comes to dealing with things like burning cars and HF


ric.
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 30 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just used brute force and various inappropriate sharp implements. No fire required.

New seal: in
MOT: passed
Blowie: well earned
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