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stranger12
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Impact wrench ryobi Reply with quote

Hi all,

I am thinking of getting an impact wrench.

I have seen ryobi which doesnt cost arm and a leg and seems like a good brand.

It has a max torque of 265nm which is a lot and can almost undo any nuts/bolts on saloon cars/ bike

Has anyone used them ? Are they any good

I am looking to get it with li ion battery rather than nicad.
There is an option of 4 Ah and 1.5 ah. I guess that means the 4ah can last almost three times the 1.5, is that correct?


Would it be reasonable to expect 1 hour of running time on 1.5 with average use?

I have also seen makita and dewalt but they are almost 2-3 times the price for almost the same spec

Ryobi also comes with 2 years warranty


Impact wrench ryobi
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't speak for working on cars, but on bikes, there are only a handful of nuts where an impact wrench is genuinely useful, and for those, 265Nm may not be enough.

I'm thinking of things like front sprocket nuts, which can be extremely tight, and damping rod bolts in forks, which sometimes need a repeated high-speed whizzes.

Also, impact wrenches aren't something that you'd typically use for hours at a time, unless you're breaking a bike and don't particularly care if you do a bit of damage to a bolt head, and you just want it undone quickly.

I have a 250Nm cordless that I normally only use on my scooter for things like the clutch bell nut, and to speed up removing the 10+ bolts on the CVT crankcase cover. For more serious stuff I use my corded 400Nm - I got nowhere on forks with 250Nm.
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Further to what I said in the pm, I'd go for the 4aH battery if you think you'll end up buying a Ryobi drill...

Both me and my dad have 18v cordless drills with 2 batteries (his is a Makita, mine is a Bosch) and often we'll end up having to use both, with all the spare batteries getting charged at the same time. Bigger battery would be massively beneficial.

I've also got a 24v Sealey impact wrench and it's bloody brilliant, it came in a bundle with a spare battery but I'm STILL on the original battery, charged it up 6 months ago and its still going strong. I've used it probably 10 or so times now for removing/refitting 4x5 wheel nuts, so with an impact wrench the battery capacity won't be an issue... if you use that same battery on a drill/jigsaw/reciprocator then it may well run out quicker than you'd like
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool

I got the drill with battery and charger which was on a good deal

i got it all for £98 from b&q , it came with 50nm drill, 2x1.3 ah battery and charger and a case which would normally cost around 120-150 depending on where you buy it from .

I have also ordered the impact wrench for £90 from ryobi direct .

I see how the 1.3 batteries go and if no good then I can get a 4ah battery . they are very expensive . £75 each .

re torque, I have tighten my bmw 24mm nut to 250nm and that is bloody tight and hard using a 60cm bar or leverage bar.

I would have then thought 265 would undo anything , wouldn't it ?

I have seen some people saying it couldn't undo their tyre nuts but I think it is due to them and their mistake otherwise car wheel nut can not be tighter than 200nm in my opinion unless it is a truck or some big heavy car
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
cool

I got the drill with battery and charger which was on a good deal

i got it all for £98 from b&q , it came with 50nm drill, 2x1.3 ah battery and charger and a case which would normally cost around 120-150 depending on where you buy it from .

I have also ordered the impact wrench for £90 from ryobi direct .

I see how the 1.3 batteries go and if no good then I can get a 4ah battery . they are very expensive . £75 each .

re torque, I have tighten my bmw 24mm nut to 250nm and that is bloody tight and hard using a 60cm bar or leverage bar.

I would have then thought 265 would undo anything , wouldn't it ?

I have seen some people saying it couldn't undo their tyre nuts but I think it is due to them and their mistake otherwise car wheel nut can not be tighter than 200nm in my opinion unless it is a truck or some big heavy car


Car wheel nuts are usually a 100-120nm range... unless they've been put on with an air gun then shouldn't have a problem... they can only have been overtightened if it won't buzz them off.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If a bolt has seized then it will be a bugger nomatter what you use, my impact gun has 610 Lb:Ft of reverse torque and has been defeated by a wheel bolt on a car Shocked Breaker bar with a length of pipe on the end was needed for that.

On the other hand I had a derp moment and took the chain off my last bike before cracking the front sprocket nut, didn't want to rattle the gearbox so it was in neutral too... A couple of burps and that nut was off Thumbs Up
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
re torque, I have tighten my bmw 24mm nut to 250nm and that is bloody tight and hard using a 60cm bar or leverage bar.

I would have then thought 265 would undo anything , wouldn't it ?

Definitely not IMO. Keep in mind that apart from corrosion, things like threadlocker may be applied that will increase the needed torque to undo. Having a high torque ceiling saves you having to mess with heat guns etc.

Front sprocket nut on my ER6f defeated both cordless impact wrenches at my local garage, and defeated the air gun until the compressor was started up again.

With fork damper rod retaining bolts, it's more an issue of speed than absolute torque. The damper rod is free to rotate, so if the bolt is stuck in the rod's threads, both bolt and rod will rotate as a unit. The bolt needs to be given high jerk torque to undo it - i.e. suddenly hitting it with torque.

Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't have bothered with the 250Nm cordless I have, I'd have gone straight for something bigger.
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G
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 31 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not at all reundoing anything.

First off - eat some pies.

And - guessing you don't lift, bro'!

My lorry comes with a wheel brace that's maybe .75cm. My deadlift is far from amazing, but from that, I should be able to apply about a bit over 1100nm of torque on the bolts.

Initially pre-MOT, I couldn't budge them. Ended up borrowing a diesel air compressor and a 1" drive impact wrench (many torques.)

When I had a blow out, thankfully I'd made sure they weren't done up with the 1" driver - so could JUST get them undone by hand.

How about this if you don't need battery power? The batter ones have a habit of draining the batteries pretty quickly; with not much torque you need to hold it on for a while typically.
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 03:26 - 01 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
How about this if you don't need battery power?

This is my corded impact wrench. It delivers a decent whack, although it's all or nothing.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

problem is I can't have corded as no power in where I am .

Will see how the ryobi goes.
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