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Would like to spray my motorbike matt black - advice needed

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Colinzor
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 01 Jun 2014    Post subject: Would like to spray my motorbike matt black - advice needed Reply with quote

Hi guys.

I would like to spray my motorbike matt black, is this something i could do myself as a project?

I think it was crashed before i got it so whoever had it has resprayed it a flip paint green and purple, its actually not bad looking but i would like to respray it to give it a different look if possible, if so how long would this take and is it hard? i use the bike daily for my commutes.

Its a Honda CBR 125

any advice would be great thanks Very Happy
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 01 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes you can do it.

It's an exercise in degreasing, sanding, cleaning, shaking and waiting. The actual spraying is almost incidental.

This is a rattle-can job.

https://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8788/paintedbike.jpg

That's 4 layers of primer (white covering black, you'll need fewer), 3 layers of colour, and a lacquer layer.

It took almost a week to complete (mostly drying time) and the lacquer took another couple of weeks to fully cure.

So, yes, it's possible, but I'd hesitate to do it again.

Or you could just buy the biggest cheapest tins of matt or satin black that you can find and keep spraying over that lovely distinctive flip paintwork until you're happy, or bored, or reduced to remorseful tears. That works too. Wink
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Carvel
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 01 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Yes you can do it.

It's an exercise in degreasing, sanding, cleaning, shaking and waiting. The actual spraying is almost incidental.

This is a rattle-can job.

https://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8788/paintedbike.jpg


Why Jewish racing gold?
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 01 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, spraying is diy'able, but getting a great finish that you can stand back and admire can be an absolute ball ache. Also, for the petrol tank you need a petrol proof lacquer.

If it was me.... hmm, in my younger days I would have charged in and had a go, but nowadays I'd say fuck that, just enjoy it for what it is until it's time to get rid of it and move on.
That is largely driven by the fact that I lack the time. If you've got plenty of time and really fancy a go - crack on.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 01 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carvel wrote:
Why Jewish racing gold?

THIS! IS! SPARTA! BRONZE!
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 01 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Preparation is key to paint spraying.

Particularly for DIY jobs. I mean its equally important for pro jobs, but they know what they're doing and they're being paid to do a good job. But for DIY jobs the preparation can be extremely boring and tedious... and it doesn't feel like progress.

I've had a tendency to think "how important can it be" or something like "fuck it I can't be bothered anymore" and start spraying.

All I will say is DON'T say "fuck it". It'll be a shit job if you don't prep properly. I ended up having the paint peel within days. TBH it was the lower grille of my car, so it gets stone chipped anyway, so I just give it a blow over with satin black spray every few months... it's not a good quality job but it's low to the ground so it's hard to see the bad finish and it gets damaged anyway.

A bike on the other hand, you'll notice very much if the tank starts peeling.



So if you're gonna do it yourself... do it well, do it properly.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 01:36 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

To do a 'decent' job; you are looking at probably the best part of £250's worth of rattle cans; want to lift it from being an obvious 'blow-over' job in single colour; then start adding paint and more tedium masking, and or expensive, as in between £50 & £150, replica decals.

Then spend the best part of a month, sanding, prepping, cleaning, fixing, prepping, priming, and LOTS and LOTS of waiting for stuff to dry or cure. And not a lot of it seeing stuff change colour.

And it will STILL look like a crashed bike, some-one's tried 'tarting up on the cheap'.... esp in matt black, which doesn't cover all sins, but high-lights them... and has tendency to grab grime and is a pig to clean.

And besides, the 'steath' look is Sooooo last decade. But it be your bike & your money.

It's do-able.. I do about one a year or so... but I don't tend to try doing the bike I have to ride every day, and I oughtn't have any-one moan at me for what I do in my own home, like leaving side-panels to cure near radiators, or drying tanks in front of the oven... especially since SHE built her bludy bike behind my settee! But don't stop them!

If you share living space, this MAY be worth thinking about... Mum's are great, but tend to get a bit ruffled when they bring the towels in off the line and find black lines on them, where you hung your fairings off it to spray them! Or go to do the washing up and have hundred of tears of wet and dry on the drainer... or the hoover is clogged with sanding dust!

'Projects' can inject some discord into home harmony.
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Az
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PostPosted: 01:53 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did my mates wheels with him using £2 rattle cans from the local pound shop Very Happy

We simply cleaned, primed and sprayed. (he may of sanded the wheels down before I started helping him spray them, but I can't remember).

1- Cleaned the wheels until they were immaculate.
2- Sprayed one layer of white primer over the wheels.
3- Sprayed three layers of gloss red paint over the wheels.

It cost no more than £10 to do both wheels and they came out surprisingly good (considering we used cheap paint). This was like 5/6months ago, the wheels are still looking okay with no cracks or chips in.
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djrikki
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PostPosted: 01:57 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Az wrote:
using £2 rattle cans from the local pound shop


Charged 100% over RRP apparently
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djrikki
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PostPosted: 01:58 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carvel wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Yes you can do it.

It's an exercise in degreasing, sanding, cleaning, shaking and waiting. The actual spraying is almost incidental.

This is a rattle-can job.

https://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8788/paintedbike.jpg


Why Jewish racing gold?


I LOL'd Laughing
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Az
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PostPosted: 02:05 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

djrikki wrote:
Az wrote:
using £2 rattle cans from the local pound shop


Charged 100% over RRP apparently



The said shop is not true to it's name, also sells 20 Rothmans for £4 and various other things for over a quid Rolling Eyes
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clancy
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

As usual tef is talking shit. £250 on rattle cans ? Is your bike the size of a house ?

It's all in the prep work, sanding and working your way through the grades to get a nice smooth finish everywhere. Probably cost £5 in sand paper

Then 2 or 3 layers of primer 3 or 4 paint and a clear coat. Buy simoniz paint off eBay, it's cheap and very good. Spread very well

On second thoughts you said matt black so ignore the clear coat

I'm refurbing some bbs split rims at the minute, which is far far more prep work and most likely more paint. It has cost about £40

It's all about prep work, take your time and get it perfect it will look spot on after. I've done lots of wheels and no one can tell the difference. We also sprayed my mates whole car with rattle cans a few weeks back and again it looks like a pro job, we just spent ages sanding it perfectly and sanding at any paint stage where the finish looked off
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few options.

You can do it properly. In which case I'd go for the primer, normal black rubbed down between coats then a matt/satin laquer to finish.

You can do it just matt black in a ratbike style in which case I'd recommend plastikote BBQ paint.

There is also vinyl wrap. You can either buy 3M stuff which goes on like a dream or pay 1/4 as much for some cheap stuff which is more difficult to use. Buy a bit of cheap stuff to practice with anyway.

This is a professional, matt black paintjob which cost £350 for the front fairings and tank:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/VFR/1CIMG1607_zps029b660f.jpg

This is 3M vinyl wrap. Got enough to do the whole bike for about £65. You DO need to practice first though, there are lots of youtube videos:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/CIMG0760halved.jpg
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beardface
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
To do a 'decent' job; you are looking at probably the best part of £250's worth of rattle cans.


Laughing Laughing Laughing
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Doovy
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PostPosted: 09:09 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carvel wrote:
Why Jewish racing gold?


It's the same bronze as we saw on the forks of that Hornet at Ace yesterday Laughing
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pits
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PostPosted: 10:19 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
To do a 'decent' job; you are looking at probably the best part of £250's worth of rattle cans; want to lift it from being an obvious 'blow-over' job in single colour; then start adding paint and more tedium masking, and or expensive, as in between £50 & £150, replica decals.

Then spend the best part of a month, sanding, prepping, cleaning, fixing, prepping, priming, and LOTS and LOTS of waiting for stuff to dry or cure. And not a lot of it seeing stuff change colour.

That is 50 rattle cans, say it to yourself Mike "Fifty rattle cans"

A month sanding, prepping and cleaning? No you hit in a day or so, otherwise your sanding, prepping and priming absorbs moisture and and your paint eventually fails.

It's matt black you don't need to mask shit, take the panels off the bike, spray them.



Realistically though even if done well and you pay someone to do it, like Stinkwheel has, it is inevitably going to look like dog shit, and matt black just screams "I am trying to tidy up a pile of shit bike and make it look good" and it just doesn't, it looks terrible, also massively devalues the bike, a bike that beforehand probably wasn't worth that much to start with hence why you're happy to rattle can it.


Just don't bother.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:

THIS! IS! SPARTA! BRONZE!


In Sparta, bronze would probably have been the colour of the sky, not the colour of that bike.

The ancient Greeks had no word for blue.

Just saying like.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those crazy Greeks! Next you'll be telling us they were serial kiddy touchers wait what.
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Doovy
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
Those crazy Greeks! Next you'll be telling us they were serial kiddy touchers wait what.


Oooh, you saucy thing

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Atomic Punk
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was despatching, I sprayed a Camo Z550 matt black in between jobs, no rubbing down etc, it's what matt black was made for.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
In Sparta, bronze would probably have been the colour of the sky, not the colour of that bike.

The ancient Greeks had no word for blue.

They were all half blind from too much use of their Rhododáktylos in the Ēṓs.
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treeno
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you guys not recommend any paint stripping/sandblasting first? Or can you just get away with hand sanding all over first?
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

treeno wrote:
Do you guys not recommend any paint stripping/sandblasting first? Or can you just get away with hand sanding all over first?

hi,
on plastic panels?.....no. wet + dry paper is all thats needed. no need (usually) to remove all the old paint.
metal fuel tank?....maybe, just maybe, remove all the old paint, but only if its really necessary. then etch primer, then the painting process.

frames? worth getting blasted (by whatever stuff is in vogue, walnut shellls or whatever) then paint or preferably (imo),powder-coat. but can be done diy by removing all old rust etc with wire brush, then hammerite. seen it done + actually looked quite good.
wheels? same. if tyres are off its worth paying the 40 quid a wheel to get powdercoated, though i have painted wheels, using the normal 2k process.
as for time for stuff to dry? thats what cental heating is for. or if working in shed/lock-up those cheap halogen heaters do the job
cheers,
GAZ
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
To do a 'decent' job; you are looking at probably the best part of £250's worth of rattle cans;

pits wrote:
That is 50 rattle cans, say it to yourself Mike "Fifty rattle cans"

"Fifty Rattle Cans... " There said it to myself... "Following thought was "Where the fuck do YOU get 400mm rattle cans for under a fiver? Followed by "Bet they give really good coverage and colour depth Rolling Eyes "
I buy my rattle cans from local panel-beater's merchants; basic colour coat is £9 a 400ml can. 'cheap' 500ml prime is £8 a can; 500ml level-prime, £11. As is plastic or etch prime. 2K clear coat to stop petrol spill ruining the lot, is £14 for 150ml can.
£200 is less than 20 cans, and with five layers; Key-coat' Level-Layer; Prime; Colour; and Clear-coat? That's still only 3-4 cans a layer... which isn't far off what it would take to cover all the panel-work of a fully-faired motorcycle.
You could chuck it on thin, I suppose, you could omit layers, and might look OK for a bit after... but not my idea of a 'decent' job...
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clancy
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You pay waaaaay too much for paint.
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