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Chalky.
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: USB port on bike Reply with quote

Hi

Been reading through past posts on this subject, just want to check a couple of things.

Want to put a USB port on my bike, to be permanently live.

I get some wire, red and black. Connect red and black to battery. Wire other end of red and black into a step down regulator thing, to provide me with 5V and not 12V. Connect USB port wires to 5V wires from regulator.

???

Profit?

Any input?

Thanks
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup pretty much it is as easy as you state.

HOWEVER always always always solder/wire in some sort of fuse.

I recommend an inline blade fuse holder:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/221234253521?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

Namely because automotive fuses you can get anywhere and everywhere, like super markets and petrol stations. While the quickblow cylinder types I could buy at Halfords and the odd motorfactors.

You can also use it as a switch by yanking the fuse, if the port is external to prevent people charging their whatever off your bike.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. Needs a fuse.
2. You should also use a diode and smoothing caps to get yourself rock-steady 5V.
3. Even little regs get hot. Consider using a TO220 heatsink.
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Ben90
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Option B
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doggone
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure it's worth having dedicated wiring just for that.
Makes more sense to install a cigarette socket or SAE connector which can also be used for trickle charge.
(then get a USB adapter for that).
In practice you likely won't need the USB very often at all but nice to have especially if touring.
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Chalky.
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great, thanks guys.

Tim, you've lost me slightly I'm afraid. Diode and smoothing caps?

Aware there is "off the shelf" stuff from China, fancy a bash myself though if it's not too hard.

Dog - it'll be used permanently for a tracker. If it kills the battery too quickly from being permanenly live, I'll put it on the tail light.

Thanks for the help.

Starting to wish I didn't just spend my physics lessons seeing how many bulbs I could blow up on crocodile clips.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ben90 wrote:
Option B


fucking 9 quid! And from Kong Hong? U SRS BRO?
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chalky. wrote:
Tim, you've lost me slightly I'm afraid. Diode and smoothing caps?


Diode is there to stop any accidental reverse-voltage goings on. You don't need to know how it works, just that it's there to stop the reg going pop.

The capacitors smooth out the voltage. Whilst the reg will almost certainly do it on it's own, it's good practice to have them there anyway. Additionally some devices (notably i-things) are very fussy about what they are plugged into. Computer USB ports are always smoothed, so you should do the same really.

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Chalky.
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
Chalky. wrote:
Tim, you've lost me slightly I'm afraid. Diode and smoothing caps?


Diode is there to stop any accidental reverse-voltage goings on. You don't need to know how it works, just that it's there to stop the reg going pop.

The capacitors smooth out the voltage. Whilst the reg will almost certainly do it on it's own, it's good practice to have them there anyway. Additionally some devices (notably i-things) are very fussy about what they are plugged into. Computer USB ports are always smoothed, so you should do the same really.

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Perfect, your help is much appreciated. Want to go and grab bits and bobs now - B&Q type shop needed?
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orac
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

its also worth noting that icrap also has other feature that can cause headhaches, there is sometime a small peice of coms between the charger and device, something as simple as tieing data lines can be done but care must be taken

Quote:

Before the battery charging specification was defined, there was no standardized way for the portable device to inquire how much current was available. For example, Apple's iPod and iPhone chargers indicate the available current by voltages on the D− and D+ lines. When D+ = D− = 2.0 V, the device may pull up to 500 mA. When D+ = 2.0 V and D− = 2.8 V, the device may pull up to 1 A of current.[75] When D+ = 2.8 V and D− = 2.0 V, the device may pull up to 2 A of current.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
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Chalky.
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any idea what amp wire I need? Ta
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
Ben90 wrote:
Option B


fucking 9 quid! And from Kong Hong? U SRS BRO?


Confused I didn't think it was that bad. Not bargain cheap, but you get the inline fuse, connectors, cable, rubber cap, and no messing about. By the time you buy all the separate components isn't it going to cost that anyway?

Edit: reread OP wants to do it themselves as part of a tracker install, so makes more sense to build in as part of install.
OP, what sort of tracker are you going for?
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Major Doss
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chalky. wrote:
Any idea what amp wire I need? Ta


How many amps do you require for the device? IME, you'll be fine with 1 amp. Mobile charger I have to hand states 0.15 Amps. Just make sure it is fused to a value less than the cable. I.E; 2 amp cable?=1 Amp fuse, etc. If heated grips can run off the brake light circuit, I can't see an issue with a USB. However, would the slight fluctuation in current and/voltage be an issue this way? I do not know. HTH Thumbs Up
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a 99p 12v Ciggy lighter usb charger,
Take it apart and add 2 wires, red/Live with fuse in,
All the voltage smoothing is done for 99p lol

hth
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orac
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chalky. wrote:
Any idea what amp wire I need? Ta


how long is a piece of string, if read a litte more of the wiki article i posted, USB can provide upto 5 amp, although 2 amp is moretypical.

nost phone chargers wont exceed about 1amp, but build in some leaway (i ran 30 amp wire for 20 amp air horn) you wont the fuse to blow long before the wire get close to thinking about going into duress
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 07 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ones I saw were 3.1A

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Port-USB-3-1A-Dual-IN-Car-Mobile-Phone-Charger-Adapter-For-iPhone-5-4-4S-IPAD-/181432026089?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneChargers&hash=item2a3e3103e9
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 08 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did this on my XJ600. Worked just fine around Spain.

Things I noted; it only charged at around 500ma, so it charged quite slowly. Although not a real issue as it was on charge at all times when riding.

Though it was very pointless I feel. I feel as if I should have just wired in a cigarette lighter.
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Marmalade
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 08 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are loads of usb sockets/cigi sockets etc with fuses built in or on the wiring, come on handlebar clamps.
Just clamp it to the bars, feed the wiring and connect it to the battery, fitted in 10 mins, minimal hassle and for under a tenner.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 08 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marmalade wrote:
There are loads of usb sockets/cigi sockets etc with fuses built in or on the wiring, come on handlebar clamps.
Just clamp it to the bars, feed the wiring and connect it to the battery, fitted in 10 mins, minimal hassle and for under a tenner.


Yeah but if honest I wanted mine to come out at the front of the seat area as I have my phone in my jacket to minimize wires hanging around,
I also used a small usb male to female extension as a weak link and to allow a little give from the actual usb charger.
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Robster
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 08 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chalky, did you wire up the regulator yourself? if so do you have a pic? I fancy installing a 12v socket to my Vara for a sat nav and would like to know the best reg to use for this, so the wire's not live all the time.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 08 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a triple-port fag lighter wired into my sidelight and a USB plug that fits into one of the ports. It took about ten minutes to wire it in and works like a charm.
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Marmalade
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 09 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

put the cigi/usb port where you want it and use a usb extension lead to have it coming out from the front of the seat.
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Old Thread Alert!

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Shreeve
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for the post resurrection, I have bought a USB charger with an in-line fuse with a 5V output.

I was going to wire it straight to the battery as this post states but have read that even when nothing is plugged in it can still drain the battery?

Is this true and if so what would be the next best option?
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bamt
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will still drain, but very slowly. If the bike isn't left for weeks on end you probably wouldn't notice.

Alternatively, if you want a "permanently on" supply, put a switch between the charger and the battery, so it is on all the time but you can turn it off for storage purposes. This is useful e.g. for keeping something charging when your bike is parked, or stopping a GPS shutting down at the petrol station.

If you don't need it to be on when your ignition is off, then put a relay in as people do for heated grips.
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Shreeve
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the reply, I use it for commuting so it should be fine.
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