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Rust conversion chemical.

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chris-red
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Rust conversion chemical. Reply with quote

Can anyone recommend one? Ideally a small bottle as I only need a little bit.
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small bottle? Got to be Kurust then.
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moonzoomer
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

here... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-RUST-REMEDY-RUST-KILLER-7503-90ML-MOTORAMA-HULL-/331229629428?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4d1ed30bf4 I have used it, very good gear
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Linseed oil works extremely well, I've used it on my ZRX (bolts/nuts mostly) and they've all developed a chocolate-coloured coating with no more rust.

Phosphoric acid works too (the active ingredient in most anti-rust products I believe).
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moonzoomer
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cheapest of the shelf phosphoric acid product I have ever used was brick cleaner, normal cost is 20 quid for 25 litres and it works wonders on stainless steel downpipes, gloves and eye protection are recommended when using any phosphoric acid products.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

moonzoomer wrote:
The cheapest of the shelf phosphoric acid product I have ever used was brick cleaner, normal cost is 20 quid for 25 litres and it works wonders on stainless steel downpipes, gloves and eye protection are recommended when using any phosphoric acid products.

Stuff is a fairly significant ingredient in coke-a-cola as well....
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can hold off until tomorrow I'll check at work, I'm pretty sure we have bottle of that stuff which never gets used, if I can find it I can run it down to you tomorrow evening.
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive used this rust-ins stuff with good results https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/121219049129?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
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A100man
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 23 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Citric acid crystals from Wilko about 1/4 of teh box in a pint of water. This will work if you can immerse your rusty thing in it and scrub every few hours for a day or so. Cheap as chips. Otherwise you will need a gel compound based on phosphoric acid as mentioned..
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 01:27 - 24 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not after any kind of cleaner or acid, what I'm after is something like the first 2 suggestions. A product that chemically alters the rust back to solid metal.

The oil tank on my TDM was hit by something a while back which damaged the paint. I ignored it and on closer inspection recently I noticed a 10p patch that is really corroded. I know from experience removing the oil tank is a cunt of the highiest order so I want to fix it in situ. The rust looks bad enough that I'm concerned about going through it with a Dremel/wire wheel. So I figure brush off any loose bits apply this stuff. Maybe a dab of areldite/chemical mental then a coat of hammerite to seal it up.

C_dug if you have something like that at work I can nick a small amount of that would be great I don't need a lot at all!
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
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WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 01:54 - 24 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
A product that chemically alters the rust back to solid metal.


Sadly such a product doesn't exist AFAIK, the rust is a chemical process of oxidation onto the steel. Annoying the oxides take up more physical room than the metal did/does causing the rust to scale/bubble up unlike say the oxide coating on aluminium.

Even if it were possible to somehow convert the iron oxides back into iron, by the time it has rusted the damage has been done, the metal will have flaked off into rusty and the structure of the steel will be lost along with it its physical strength.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 02:24 - 24 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

smegballs wrote:
Sadly such a product doesn't exist AFAIK,

Kurust or in my day, Jenolite, 'sort' of does.
As I understand the way they work, is that they contain a chemical, more reactive than ferrouse iron, which reacts with the rust, in a 'reduction' reaction, effectively 'stealing' the oxygen from the iron oxide, leaving the oxidised 'product' of the reaction forming a skin over the iron, like anodise.

Haven't seen Jelolite for years... I think half my Morris Minor was made from that stuff (and GRP of course Laughing ).. but wonderful stuff, you brush painted it on after wire brushing, and literally watch it working; the red rusty metal went from rusty red, to sort of black, then a white fur sort of dried over the top.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 24 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brick acid is hydrochloric acid. Will remove the rust, but will leave it exposed for further corrosion.

Linseed oil as Hetzer suggested would inhibit rust. It is a drying oil, used in oil paints. I use flax seed oil (same thing, just food grade) to season my cast iron pans, albeit I bake it on, should still work if left to dry. Although good luck painting over it.

The stuff OP was probably thinking about is a phosphoric acid based rust preventer. Iron III oxide plus phosphoric acid becomes iron III phosphate plus water. Iron III phosphate is the black stuff that is claimed to protect the area from further rust... I've never had much luck. It is a thin and weak layer that rubs off and rusts again, prob works better on very rusty stuff with a thick rust layer. Again, it interferes with paint.


EDIT: read OP other post - I thought it was rusty fixings or something. So... I'd JB weld and paint. Or remove, replace/weld and paint.

Oh and smegballs - rust ---> iron can be achieved with electrolysis, not much help to OP of course Wink .
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Andy9934
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 24 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Iron III phosphate is the black stuff that is claimed to protect the area from further rust... I've never had much luck. It is a thin and weak layer that rubs off and rusts again, prob works better on very rusty stuff with a thick rust layer. Again, it interferes with paint.


You need to paint over treated rust. These products are not magic, they just allow you to skip so much sanding and go straight to the protection stage. They don’t quite beat a proper sand, prime and paint but they will do for most applications.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 24 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a number of chemical gun blueing products available that might be appropriate for some surfaces that need corrosion protection but cannot change significantly in dimensions, else use appropriate paint.
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 25 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used deoxC on most parts of my bike when stripped down.
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gdj444
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 25 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used Kurust on lots of bits of slight corrosion on all my bikes with good effect, not sure what it does but it seems to halt any further rust and leaves a better finish on what rust was there that you can paint over, other advantage is it comes in small bottles with a brush in the cap and you can get from Halfords for not much money

Jonesy
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 26 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

C Dug has a acquired some stuff from his work for me. So lots of karma please! I'll post some pics of the problem and finished result. Thumbs Up
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 26 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Thanks Thumbs Up
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 29 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to get pics but the stuff worked great despite being 7 years out of date brushed the crap paint and surface rust off the chemical turned a anything left a dark blue colour and it went solid. A coat of hammerite and it's good for another 12 years.
Massive thanks to C_Dug Thumbs Up
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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