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| Paul2129 |
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Paul2129
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Joined: 21 Jul 2013
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| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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 Posted: 19:16 - 06 Jul 2014  Post subject: |
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What bike? Let's assume it's not Chinese or Indian for a sec. How many rainy and/or wet road miles do you clock up? Do you ride in winter much - and, again, on wet roads? If the answer to those is not very many/much I honestly wouldn't get too stressed about it. Especially not if it's garaged or in a covered store (shed etc.). Just wait til it's cooled down after a ride, and dry the pipes off, wipe/spray with a bit of paraffin / diesel / or GT85 if budget permits, and they should last years and years.
However, if you're commuting mile after mile in the wet, all year round - yeah. Okay. Header bolts, studs, collector box, pipes, clamps, etc - all are going to rust. Doesn't matter what you do, nor what kind of bike. Robby said recently that brass nuts are one part of a solution - and then copper slip, etc. But I don't know about silicon spray, and whether or not that would burn off. 
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| Wonko The Sane |
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Wonko The Sane
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| Itchy |
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Itchy
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| Posted: 19:36 - 06 Jul 2014 Post subject: |
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What year and make is your bike? it may already be stainless as stock.
But tbh mild steel pipes and how long they last is like asking how long a piece of string is.
I saw a CBR600FY with mild steel pipes which hadn't gone bad but with 31,000 miles on it.
While my own CBR600FX had a small crack and hole where it went 4 to 1 pipe at 23000 miles.
While my NTV exhaust was stainless at the front and the collector box rotted at the back after 100K.
Kitty's fazer pipes lasted to 80K on the original black painted mild steel. I see you live in Blackpool too, maybe FS365 spray? it alleges to neutralise salt.
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| gavcarter |
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gavcarter
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard
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Posted: 22:14 - 06 Jul 2014  Post subject: Re: Protecting a new steel exhaust from rust |
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| Paul2129 wrote: | Hi, this might have been covered before.
Firstly, I know they eventually rot from the inside, and I know there's a fair chance that whatever you use will dry up or burn off, but does anyone have any suggestions other than wd40 for putting on the full run of exhaust to give it a water-shedding coating or a greasy surface that will stay on ?
ACF50 is too expensive. Even if it works, it will burn off.
I don't want to buy a stainless system
I wondered if some form of silicone spray might work ?
I tried a copy of WD earlier, but it has quite literally evaporated and left the metal totally dry
How about wiping it over with wax oil each time the bike is washed ?
What about ignition sealer, it certainly smells like lacquer ?
I don't really want to put more paint on it, at least not until it's needed
Cheers |
If you come up with an answer, you'll either be a billionaire or found dead in a ditch somewhere....
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| Itchy |
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Itchy
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| lihp |
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lihp
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 06:10 - 07 Jul 2014 Post subject: Re: Protecting a new steel exhaust from rust |
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| Itchy wrote: | | Nobby the chihuahua wrote: | If you come up with an answer, you'll either be a billionaire or found dead in a ditch somewhere.... |
Not really, its called Stainless steel, or I suppose you could make downpipes out of ceramics/glass as glass is acid proof be kinda brittle though.
I reckon if petrol is still used they might use carbon fibre downpipes, not on cheapo bikes though. |
- In the 80's, US Super-bikes wore titanium systems. Incredibly light; incredibly corrosion resistant, and just as incredibly expensive.
There was also a vogue at one point for ceramic exhausts.
Dihatsu actually made a totally ceramic experimental diesel engine, in the late 80's, and pioneered some very inovative composite material techniques 'stintering' ceramic components.
Fad for ceramics seems to have settled more on ceramic coatings and inserts, though, and I believe that in the US there are companies that offer ceramic coating services, who will ceramic crown pistons or valves, or 'dip' header pipes for turbo-drag engines and the like.
Answer to the OP's 'problem' is that it probably isn't one.
You buy a mild steel system, 'cos its cheap. Likely to rust, and has a finite service life. Its a 'durable' service spare, like tyres, you expect to have to replace at some point.
Mild steel... well, how long system may last depends on thickness of the metal, and quality of chrome, if any.
A 'good' mild steel exhaust may outlast a cheap stainless one.
Silencers on Snowies Guzzi are OE fit, and twenty years old; chrome has gone where its out of sight, out of mind and hard to clean, but she cleaned them up last week, and thick steel beneath is still good, and probably got another three four years in it, with a bit of heat-proof paint. In a similar manner, I have pulled mild-steel exhaust sections of Range-Rovers, where the OE pipe-work is almost made from scaffold poles, steels almost 3mm thick! That has lived a hard life under off-roaded vehicle, but again, managed to survive near twenty years, while I've found sections of after-market stainless that have gone thin after probably 10 years.
Cheap is Cheap. And brand new 'pattern' chrome pipes Snowie fitted to 'The Pup' three and a bit years ago, are looking rather tired and beginning to win the battle of the solvol, and I suspect probably have no more than a year 18 months left in them, despite headers and hidden bracketry having been painted with high-temp.
Meanwhile I have after-market Motad two-into-one systems, on a couple of the Super-Dreams, that have to be at least fifteen, if not twenty years old, that are still 'good' and shiney chrome, that probably didn't replace the OE chrome pipes until they were at least ten years old.
You buy a Chrome system, if the bikes naked, and pipe is going to be seen; you paint unchromed mild with High-Temp exhaust paint if not. And you eek out the life keeping it clean and re-painting as and when. Good system can last decades, a cheap one months... same as stainless.
So answer to OP's Q is probably simply 'High Temp Paint'.
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 222 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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