Can I remove a link of my chain?

[Palm_95]

Can I remove a link of my chain?
The chain slack should be around 2cm, but lately its more like 3-4 cm of slack, which is definitely too much. I cannot further tighten the chain.

Bike is a 2010 Honda CBF 125
Chain is an RK 428 KRO with around 3500 kms on it. Always made sure it was properly lubricated.

What would I need to remove a chain link? As far as I know, the chain is connected to itself by a small locking piece, and not by a pin going through.

https://i.gyazo.com/cb14f2badc21d00966c8c65fcc10a895.png
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My bike: '10 Honda CBF 125
A1 licensed

[ADSrox0r]

You need a new chain, it'll end in tears trying to squeeze more life out of a fully stretched one.

[Palm_95]

Dang it!

Can it really be true that it's done after a mere 3500 kilometres? That's around 2200 miles just for the sake of comparison.

Could you elaborate on what problems I would run in to if I try removing a chain link?
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My bike: '10 Honda CBF 125
A1 licensed

[wr6133]

I banged some links out of a chain on my old 250. Used a large socket to rest the bit I wanted to remove on then a screwdriver, hammer and lots of brute force and ignorance to bash the pin out and remove the link.

Probably wasn't the best way as you can get a chain splitting tool for about 10 quid.

[barrkel]

Think about it; a worn chain has a longer distance between each gap that the sprocket teeth fit into.

That means a worn chain is no longer the correct chain for your sprockets; it now has a pitch that's too long.

All the force of the engine will be on the first couple of teeth engaged in the chain, instead of distributed around the sprocket. So the sprocket teeth will wear faster, and they will snap - this generally happens sooner on the front sprocket that you typically can't see behind the sprocket cover, than the rear sprocket.

It's harder on your chain too, and your chain is more likely to snap.

A snapped chain is not something you want. If the chain is under a lot of tension when it snaps - and, if you think about it, it will be - it'll release that energy very quickly, into the engine block if you're lucky, into your ankle if you're not. It could also lock up your rear tyre at speed.

The upshot is that you should (a) be taking better care of your chain, and (b) change both chain and sprockets when your chain wears out.

The chain is right up there in safety items on a bike alongside brakes and tyres. Don't neglect your chain.
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Bikes: S1000R, SH350; Exes: Vity 125, PS125, YBR125, ER6f, VFR800, Brutale 920, CB600F, SH300x4
Best road ever ridden: www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2MhNxUEYtQ

[iooi]

[temeluchus]

Perhaps whoever sold you the chain sent you an overlength chain?
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[Scythe]

Have you been lubing the chain? Either that's caused it to wear quickly or it's made out of cheese.
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2009 Yamaha YBR125 -> 2000 SV650S -> 2005 Kawasaki ZX6R 636

[Boxing]

+1 With rubbish chain or you haven't been maintaining it correctly.

Saw one guy using GT-85 on his chain as chain lube.

[barrkel]

[Palm_95]

I think it's a combination. I've sprayed over the chain with motorcycle chain lube 2-3 times while I've had it.

The chain length is variable when I bought it. You cut off a certain amount of links and connect the chain when on the bike.

It was a cheap 35£ chain (sprockets included).

I'm just thinking that if I adjust the rear wheel position to be as far ahead as possible with the adjusting nuts, it should be enough to make me able to take a link off the chain.

I'm studying and with no job, so I've got to keep it running for minimum costs. I would absolutely hate to go without my bike until I get my next paycheck at the beginning of August.

I'm struggling to believe it's already worn out. I even considered taking off an extra link initially before I put it onto the bike.
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My bike: '10 Honda CBF 125
A1 licensed

[Kickstart]

[Palm_95]

I cut the links off the chain when I got it, so it had the exact same number of links as on the old one. The sprockets was also the exact same sizes as the old ones, and with the same number of teeth on them.
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My bike: '10 Honda CBF 125
A1 licensed

[Teflon-Mike]

I think you have probably just had a lesson in false ecconmies.
Cheap chain that costs half as much but lasts 1/4 the miles works out twice as expensive as decent chain costing twice as much.

And that is if it doesn't throw or snap on you, when worn links, mean gaps between pins are further apart dont 'pick up' on the sproket teeth, and eventually a tooth comes up under a pin rather than into a hole, resulting in the chain being lifted off the cog, and either coming off, or getting snapped.

Results can range from annoying to catastropic; but either way, best case is you have hassle, and a long walk home, and STILL have to bite the bullet and buy a new chain. Worst case, chain bunches or wips, and smashes an engine casing, to locks the back wheel and brings bike down, giving you even more to fix than you had to start, even if you aren't hurt, possibly badly in the process.

Cut to the chase; get a new C&S kit, and this time make it a decent one, from a reputable supplier.

Its not a case of whether you can afford to... its a case of whether you can afford NOT to.

And if you cant afford to maintain the bike... DON'T ride it. It wont get better on its own, it will only get worse, and likely give you even more you cant afford to fix, trying to 'botch' the job for the sake of not 'saving' money, just delaying when you have to spend it... that's a lesson in false economy you can avoid.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Palm_95]

Appreciate your reply Teflon-Mike. Although I'm afraid I cannot follow some of your advice. End of discussion. Keeping a 125 running for just another year in my case is a question of keeping costs down until I can get out on a proper bike.


Anyway, I went looking at my 'DIY-book' where I had written down when I changed the chain and sprockets, which turned out to be at 18000 kilometres. Considering I'm at 24050 kilometres now, this cheap 35£ set lasted for just over 6000 kilometres. That's plenty for me, and this makes better sense in my head. I'll order a new set at the dealer in town later this week, and check if he has something of higher quality by another brand while I'm at it.
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My bike: '10 Honda CBF 125
A1 licensed

[fatjames]

[Teflon-Mike]

[The Shaggy D.A.]

If you can do this to it, removing a link aint gonna help.

https://www.dansmc.com/chaintest.jpg

https://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.htm
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Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5

[davebike]

[iooi]

[Palm_95]

[orac]

gonna have to jump the band wagon here. basically the same as everyone else.

the DID x-ring on mine has gone for 16000 miles. the git was £130ish quide iirc. if i spend £35 on mine with 2200 miles per go it would have spent more like £250. so it actually make more sense to spend less on the more expensive set - if that make any sense at all
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Current rides - 2016 Triumph Street Triple Rx, 1994 Suzuki Bandit 400 VM, TGB 204 Classic 125cc
"with nothing left to lose, there is everything to gain. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog"

[P.addy]

OP, use what is within your budget. I used a £12.99 chain on my Varadero with used sprockets and got 10,000 out of it, just lube it little and often.

[Teflon-Mike]

[Hokum]