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Removing brake bolts

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Sid_The_Sloth
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 27 Nov 2011
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 04 Aug 2014    Post subject: Removing brake bolts Reply with quote

Problem after problem with this fazer!

This time, in preparation for collecting some used disks (decent condition and cheap) I cracked all the front disk bolts off. All loosened with no problems, except for 1! Rounded it's self. So I tried a few things but the only thing I could do was drill the head off. Now I'm stuck with a stud in the wheel.
The doner bike the disks were coming from had the same issue when I took them off. Front rounded 1 and the back rounded ALL! Mole grips just wont do to get the stubborn stud.

Any tips of how to get them out? My first thought is to get a torch to them and use mole grips for the studs. Then torch the rest before attempting to remove and hope they don't round off.

Or am I destined for new wheels?
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 04 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Heat, etc, hopefully will sort it.

However failing that they could be drilled out. But probably worth paying a local engineers to do it to the lose wheel (they can then put it into a pilller drill and make sure they drill the bolts exactly in line).

Most of the time disk bolts seem to be quite soft steel and round very easily.

All the best

Keith
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Sid_The_Sloth
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 27 Nov 2011
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good. I'll try heat on the first stud and see of that helps. Failing that your idea shall probably be my next step.
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stirlinggaz
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 01:45 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
one thing i've found works (i know its a bit late now) is to put your hex bit (your not using allen keys are you?) into the bolt without the ratchet & giving it a good wack, square on with a lump hammer.
then atach the hex bit to a breaker bar & it will crack right off.

i learned this the hard way when i ruined a perfectly good wheel after i rounded off 4 bolt heads then lost my temper completely after trying the impact driver,plus gas etc etc

the trick is to hit it with the hammer BEFORE you try & loosen them.

f*ckin thread lock!

cheers,
GAZ
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Sid_The_Sloth
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 27 Nov 2011
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PostPosted: 01:55 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

We tried that with the diner bike with no success. But couple that with heat, can only help eh.
And yes, Allen sockets on an extendable 3/8"
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MaybeGuy
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Joined: 12 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: 02:00 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

these will work depending on how much stud you have.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/94120d1383834704-im-confused-about-how-these-manifold-turbo-studs-supposed-work-4pcs-1-2-dr-stud-extractor-socket-set-3119-aaronngu77-1010-30-aaronngu77@11-jpg

mole grips are only useful for clamping stuff IMO. never to be used as an extractor.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 06:23 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually once the head has been drilled off the pressure on the threads of the bolt is gone, and its easy street to remove the remains.

As the rest of the bolt still wont shift, I think a couple of days soak in plus gas would do you a favour.
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dansp1
Nitrous Nuisance



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PostPosted: 07:37 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

weld a nut onto the stub,heat and something to turn in one fell swoop
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davebike
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PostPosted: 08:03 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The welding a nut on solution works very well
I would not have drilled the heads off just welded nuts on
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

often you can hammer an oversize torx bit into the bolt and use that to undo it.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should have drilled right the way through the entire length of the fastener, using the 'rounded-off' head as a drill guide, before removing the head.
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stirlinggaz
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
i see some folks are suggesting welding something to the head of the bolt.(a nut or whatever)
this is a great solution, but how many people have access to welding equipment? i dont, + i own a huge variety of weird + wonderful tools.
btw : mattsprattuk whats them in your pic, i want
so, same people will suggest taking it to a "mate/friendly garage or whatever", well for me thats impossible.
so i reckon its impossible for others.
friendly m/cycle garages? pfft... only 2 places in this whole city + 1 is a c*nt who caters mainly to the ghey cruser crowd, hates 2 strokes & refuses to work on them, even though he sells 2t oil, been in the game for over 20yrs + STILL managed to sell me an oil that would resulted in my top end exploding!+ other is a very decent but very busy mechanic.
long story short : welding is not an option for some folk.

so resort to the other usual methods. forget wd40 + i'd probably forget plus gas too (unless you have removed the bolt heads & at this stage i would suggest this a very bad idea, raffles has explained why), cos them bolts are proably thread locked.
even if they are not threadlocked the corrosion process will have stuck those threads good & proper.
so :
a bit of heat from a blow torch?
bolts are f*cked now anyway so hammer in a torx bit & use a breaker bar, helped me umpteem times.
as for drilling it, refer to what raffles said.
if your at that stage, take it to someone with some sort of big pillar drill.
good luck,

cheers,
GAZ
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Sid_The_Sloth
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 27 Nov 2011
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The head has been taken off 1 bolt so far. So there is at the moment just 1 without a head. I have huge faith that all bolts on the rear will round exactly the same. I should have access to a welder, welding a nut onto the headless 1 seems the best idea to me. I don't have any torx bits, so welding onto the heads might be my best bet I reckon
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