What could stop a Suzuki starting?

[0l0dom0l0]

Some of you may have been following my thread in show and tell about my TL1000R, which I haven't updated yet..... but I got round to trying to start the bike yesterday.

Upon connecting everything and turning the ignition on the fuel pump primes for a few seconds. Great I thought, so tried to start the bike and it chucked a couple of error codes and didn't start. I shorted the diagnostics plug under the seat and I get 2 error codes, one for the intake air pressure sensor and the other for the rear cylinder coil. According to the haynes manual the bike should still run with both these error codes.

In fairness the air intake pressure sensor wasn't connected and I can't find it so moved the atmospheric sensor from the front of the bike. I figured atmospheric air pressure didn't matter so much which moved the error code from the air intake to the atmospheric pressure sensor, again bike should still run according to the Haynes manual.

Rear cylinder coil is a weird one as not sure why it's chucking that. I'll look at it again tonight. Either way the bike should still run on the front cylinder but it won't fire up at all.

The bike cranks healthily, it's spinning nice and quickly. However it's not getting fuel, I know that because the intake doesn't smell of fuel and you can't see in injectors squirting any in. This leads me to believe it's something cutting fuel and spark but what would cut the fuel and spark but still let the bike crank?

I haven't checked spark yet to confirm the above, I will get round to that tonight to see if my diagnostics are correct.

I know Suzuki's usually won't start without the clutch being pulled in, but would it crank without the clutch pulled in? What about a side stand switch? Would the bike still crank with this disconnected?

My other thought was again if it's not getting spark and fuel that the crank or cam position sensors aren't working giving a signal to the ECU.

Any other thoughts on what I could check?
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[_Iain_]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Some bikes will crank, but no fire fuel or spark if the sidestand is down so they are both a check.
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[y2blade]

Clutch switch

[Fisty]

If it is the coil it won't run. If the coil fails while the engine is running it will continue to run but once switched off it won't start again.
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Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[Robby]

It's not an easy diagnosis - you have some known faults, and it sounds like you still have some of the interrupt switches (clutch, side stand) missing.

Fix the known problems before trying to diagnose a fault. The problem is likely to be down to one of the known problems.

To find out if the coil is really at fault, swap the coils around and see if the error code changes. I would not expect the interrupt switches to be a problem if it is in neutral, but it sounds like the bike is currently half built - do you have the neutral switch and light in place, connected up and working?

A failed air pressure sensor should not stop a vehicle from starting - usually it will run on a base map and flag up a code.

It's an injected bike, most people's experience is with carbed bikes. On a carbed bike, the assorted interrupt switches stop the ignition system from working to prevent it starting. In this case, they may let the ignition system work but prevent the fuel injectors from firing. Same result, it won't run.

If you have sparks, and no error codes from crank or cam sensors, you can assume that side of things to work.

[0l0dom0l0]

Did a bit more on this last night.

I removed the fuel line to the throttle bodies and there was no fuel in the line. I re arranged the tank, filled it with a bit more fuel and the pump audibly sounded like it was loading up after this whereas before it didn't sound like it was under much load.

I also cleaned the injector electrical connector between the injector loom and the main loom.

I found the remaining sensor attached to the old airbox and connected this up and then connected the other one back. This removed that error code.

I then tried to start it again and could see the fuel being squirted in and it started to splutter. Quick squirt of brake cleaner down the intake and it was running.

Rear cylinder was dropping in and out though and the bike still throwing an error code for the rear coil. Replaced both connectors to the coil with new ones and same problem. Decided to do a resistance check and the primary coil was good, then did a check on the secondary and got about 50K ohms more than it should be. Removed the plug cap and tested the coil, which tested good. Tested the plug cap and it seems it's fucked as it's reading about 45K Ohms.

Gotta source a new plug cap but Suzuki want £23 + postage!!!

Anyone got a tokaenso t142 cap knocking about?

Sounds good when running even with one cylinder dropping out.
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.