Teach a dummy to make a naked bike.

[c_dug]

My diversion is cosmetically pretty buggered up from my crash back in November. It's limped this far, but sometime in the last few days the second of four headlight mounts has given up, meaning the headlight now bounces around like buggery. Added to that the fairing is a complete state, the front fairing frame is bent out of shape, the clocks mounting is broken and the clocks surround is broken.

Some pictures of the damage below:

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0051_zpsp3cmutfk.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0052_zpsiz6dfvz8.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0053_zps3xx6fmo5.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0054_zpsckkstojs.jpg

How it should be:
https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0055_zpspgzvl2mj.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0056_zpsj6beeg6q.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0057_zpslz1gz9du.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0058_zpsm8zj7akb.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0059_zpsnohkh8bm.jpg

So, basically everything forward of the handlebars is damaged in some way. I'd ideally fix it back up to how it was before the crash, but we're talking a minimum of £250 of spare parts in anything resembling decent condition, which I really don't have the cash for, even if I could find everything I need.

The obvious second option is to remove the fairing and pop a round headlight on there? Bandit N style:

https://www.bikez.com/pictures/suzuki/2004/21221_0_1_2_bandit%201200%20n_Image%20credits%20-%20Suzuki.jpg

I wouldn't even know where to begin though. How do I do clocks for instance? How do I mount them to the bike, and what happens with all the extra wiring? How about the old fairing mounts?

For clocks, could I take something like these and make them work? If I crimped the correct wires to each other would the rev counter just work? How about the idiot lights?

I'm just a bit stuck and struggling for options at the moment.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Quornholio]

Fit an LC type headlight using a set of universal ears. You don't need clocks so sod them off (fit mountain bike speedo if it bothers you) and simplify the wiring. Job jobbed.
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https://i.imgur.com/fMrhZnH.jpg?1
Everyone give this dood green karma pls --> https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4045389#4045389
XxXxX

[mgh0]

I've got a couple of spare front fairings knocking around for the Div 900
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"Courage is not defined by those who fought and did not fall, it is defined by those who fell and rose to fight again." Adrienne Rich.

[c_dug]

In usable condition? There are a couple on eBay but they're mostly broken.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[temeluchus]

Surely you mean XJ600N style?

https://www.yamaha-community.fr/sites/wiki.yamaha-motor.fr/files/images/2000%20-%20XJ600N.jpg
____________________
Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[temeluchus]

[_Iain_]

[stinkwheel]

[temeluchus]

[c_dug]

So something like these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BIKE-IT-STEALTH-BLACK-MOTORCYCLE-MOTORBIKE-HEADLIGHT-BRACKETS-41-43mm-HLBSTLD-/330903141910?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4d0b5d3e16

And this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-AFTERMARKET-REPLACEMENT-FRONT-HEADLIGHT-7-INCH-DIAMETER-side-mounted-/191204563923?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c84ae1bd3

Plus clocks like this, mounted through magic, or whatever I can knock up in the workshop.

Can I program my current mileage in or will they start at 0?
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[stinkwheel]

Headlamp, yes but if you search for "350LC headlight" you'll find them much cheaper.

That's the round one people routinely use to enlighten a crashed, formerly faired bike. People also use twin "dominator" lights but they are shite. You can see where you're going with an LC headlight, it takes a standard H4 bulb and there's room in the back for wiring.

The brackets are fine but again, if you look about, you'll find ones with extra holes in them to mount your indicators. Unless you're fortunate enough to have a long-ish M8 bolt holding your indicators on, in which case you can bolt them through the bracket holes and into the headlight shell so the flasher stalk holds the headlight on. You'll find cheaper ones although those look reasonable quality and the rubber mounting is useful.

Looks like that vapor kit comes with clamps to attach it round the fork legs. I've never used one but a mate of mine has had one on his transalp survival bike for the last two years now. They are often used to put dirt bikes on the road. Not strictly necessary mind. I bet with a little ingenuity and bracketry, you'll find a way to fit the original clocks, or submit pictures of them with the fairing removed for the comittee to help.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[jjdugen]

While you are at it, remove all the exhaust air cleaning parafinailia from each the side of the tank. You will have to block the pipes into the cylinder head as they go straight into the exhaust ports.
I used a bandit fairing on mine for a while, few brackets to make but it fits, looks fine and lets you keep your clocks.
Drop the forks an inch and fit Exup !000 calipers. You are starting to get a surprisingly nimble machine that stops on a dime.
Junk the OE exhaust system and fit something like a Delkavik 4-! with a light can, you now have something that is actually light enough to start chucking around.
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The CBR900RR has been sold. Aprilia Falco worms its way into my heart.
Try Soi 23 on Amazon for a good read.... Self promotion? Moi?

[c_dug]

Currently has hagon front and rear suspension, blue spot front callipers and matching master, delkavic mid section and end cans. I had lots of plans before it was crashed but it's all been put on hold for the foreseeable future.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[G]

"Winter is coming", as all the oft-circulated GoT pictures will suggests.

So, I say keep the fairing and acquire some of this (it's just decent gaffa tape, nothing too fancy bar the price.)
https://store.aihalaska.com/images/aih/gor60035.jpg
One roll should sort you .

[kramdra]

That is easily repaired. First step take it all off.

Epoxy the cracked fairings from the inside,or plastic weld them with soldering iron, it will be almost invisible, which is improved further by some touchup paint.

Right fairing, do you have the missing mouting lug? if not buy some ABS sheet from ebay, glue a bit from the inside, drill and touch up with red paint.

Headlight mountings, glue or plastic weld, done.

Engine bars, brush some black hammerite and noone will notice




The bike looks old (very, older than me perhaps? ) so not much point spending lots of money if you prefer it standard. Converting it to a naked, or the suggested fibreglass fairing would both take a shitting ton of effort - much better to repair what you got.

[Major Doss]

I'll plastech that together for £60 inc. at yours, prob take 3 visits. I primer, you sort finish.

edit; handy if you still have that RH mounting lug...

[c_dug]

I've had a go with gaffa already but there isn't a decent way of sticking it in place.

I'm considering drilling through the front of the fairing and knocking up a metal bracket to bolt in place, having thought about it I'd rather keep the fairing if possible.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[c_dug]

The problem with the suggested repairs above is that because the frame is bent out of shape the fairing wont be in the correct place to mount, so even with a repaired fairing I'll still need to replace the frame work underneath. If you look at the top down picture you can see there is an inch gap on one side of the tank, and no gap at all on the other.

Despite all the cracks and breaks the fairing is still pretty secure so I'm not fussed about that side of things so long as I can get the headlight secure, cosmetics are the bottom of my list. I think the drilling through the front and making some brackets to hold the headlight is currently the top option. A dome nut either side of the headlight wont look too shabby.

I actually quite like the divvy for what it is, it makes a decent commuter, if a little thirsty. Took me across Europe without a hiccup. Hauled two people and two peoples camping gear to Wales and back. Rides surprisingly nicely in the twisties, and sounds really really nice (In a way that only a chunky 8 valve air cooled motor can).

It's annoying it has become such a shed of a bike really, it had decent potential when I got it, I thought it would be the bike to break my bike killing spree!
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[G]

[stinkwheel]

Front subframe CAN be replaced. One on ebay for £50

I like using plates and pop rivetts to repair fiarings. Drill a hole at the point of the crack to prevent it spreading, make a paper template for a plate to cover the whole crack. Shape your plate (thin alloy is probably best, I used thick copper because I had a load of scrap.

For aesthetics, glue the plate on the back and fire the pop rivetts through from the front, you can paint the heads to match the bike.

What I did was rivett them onto the front which gave a funky "armour plated" effect. The fairing in this picture was pretty much a jigsaw.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/gpz/gpzright.jpg

Also, what I did with the VFR was to attach the headlight to the subframe rather than the fairing. The manufacturers seem to have an odd notion that the best way to fit a headlight is to attach it to the inside of the fairing with four plastic lugs. In any crash, the decelleration of the heavy headlight just snaps them off and breaks the fairing. Attach the light to the steel subframe and you are massively reducing the load the fairing has to take. Also makes it very simple to fit and remove the fairing.

Again. Aluminium, glue and pop-rivetts and a little lateral thinking involved, the actual lugs on this light are long gone. The hole where the strut attaches to the subframe could be slotted for angle adjustment but the internal mechanism was working on this lamp making it unecessary.

I should point out this light also engages with a lug on the subframe at the bottom. If it didn't, I'd have needed another strut on each side for triangulation.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/VFR/1CIMG1047_zps32e2e119.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/VFR/1CIMG1048_zpscb44927c.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.