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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 16 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardDriver wrote:


Also about motor oil. I think I will use fully synthetic, not to good oil for bike Very Happy? That's one of the importest questions in 2 stroke - when your engine is enough warm? Can someomone tell my answers.


Fully synthetic. Every time.

Bike is warm when after couple minutes of running.
Don't leave it idling. Ride it but go easy for a couple of minutes.
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 08:16 - 17 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

dangerousdave wrote:
HardDriver wrote:


Also about motor oil. I think I will use fully synthetic, not to good oil for bike Very Happy? That's one of the importest questions in 2 stroke - when your engine is enough warm? Can someomone tell my answers.


Fully synthetic. Every time.

Bike is warm when after couple minutes of running.
Don't leave it idling. Ride it but go easy for a couple of minutes.


Okey, thanks about oil. I will put the synthetic. You see, I let him idle in garage, because I need to take keys and unlock and then put out the bike from garage. So it's about 2-3 minutes. But after those minutes, I have to still in low rpms in 2-3 minutes? Can I check I don't know by the temperature sensor? Or touching the bike? Because this type bike (2 stroke, 125) is my first one, so don't want to kill him, because of my lack of knowing. So that's all. Oh, why not leaved in idling? Motor I think will be more warmed up?


Last edited by HardDriver on 12:27 - 17 Aug 2014; edited 1 time in total
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 17 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

And also, what difference between fully synthetic 2 stroke oil and semi or mineral?

Also, why fully synthetic oil in different manufacture price is not the same? Or it's just for money making in shop's, or repsol, castrol, valvoline, motul and so one are the same oil? For 2 stroke?

Also, if you haven't read my other post, this engine is 1992, but in pretty good condition, so I'm not harm my engine yes?
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardDriver wrote:
Oh, why not leaved in idling? Motor I think will be more warmed up?


The motor can warm up when riding it. Less chance for oil to build up on the plug and in the exhaust.

Just don't nail it when its cold else the piston will go a funny angle in the bore and make a mess of the expensive plating. Sick
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardDriver wrote:
And also, what difference between fully synthetic 2 stroke oil and semi or mineral?

Also, why fully synthetic oil in different manufacture price is not the same? Or it's just for money making in shop's, or repsol, castrol, valvoline, motul and so one are the same oil? For 2 stroke?



I believe you get what you pay for with 2-stroke oil.

Buy the best injector oil you can afford, will mean more protection for the engine.

I run fully synthetic oil only these days, gives piece of mind. And it keeps the exhaust cleaner.
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

dangerousdave wrote:
HardDriver wrote:
Oh, why not leaved in idling? Motor I think will be more warmed up?


The motor can warm up when riding it. Less chance for oil to build up on the plug and in the exhaust.

Just don't nail it when its cold else the piston will go a funny angle in the bore and make a mess of the expensive plating. Sick



What do you mean less change for oil to build up on the plug and in the exhaust? What's happen if that happen Very Happy? Motor is slow or else? How this affect? Can I clean it? It's harmful for engine?

I can't let it idle for a 2-3 minutes? Need for just start up in cold and drive in low rpms?

Also, need the fuel tank let it go in ON position? In fuel position? Not in OFF position when the engine is stopped? Because I heard, that if fuel is not in carb when everythin in here oxydate and so one, becoming rust. So? What should I do?

Also, who to know when your bike is warm up? You said after couple of minutes yes? Maybe I can watch the temperature in speedometer? Know when it's okey to drive in high rpms?

MY BIKE KAWASAKI KMX 125 WITH 1992 years engine, but frame is 1997.
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 22 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can clean the exhaust, it's a tedious job so I try and avoid it.
Best way is using synthetic oil Tbh. Keeps the exhaust a lot cleaner.

You can let it idle for a couple of minutes before riding.Its one way of getting the bike up to working temperature and cold-seizing.

However I don't do this any more on advice from others as it means the oil and carbon condense in the exhaust at a fairly rapid rate when the exhaust is cold. But it is your choice, as if you ride the bike hard when cold you risk engine damage also.

You got to so what you are comfortable with.
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 23 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what happening, when carbon with oil condens in exchaust when engine is cold? How it's affecting bike? It's condesing when it is idling, not then driving? Because one guy here said oil in exchaust prevent from rusting, and if engine idling, low rpm, low oil injestion so it can't harmful (engine is not getting so much oil).
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 23 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carbon build up in the exhaust changes the volume of the expansion chamber (exhaust - front section). The effect this has is a reduction in the performance of the engine.

I would recommend reading about how two-stroke expansion chambers work, as an owner of a two-stroke motorcycle, it will help explain some of the fundamentals of this type of engine. You will realise how important the exhaust is on this type of motorcycle, and how keeping it clean, and also free of leaks is key.

Cleaning the exhaust of a two-stroke motorcycle is part of the maintainance routine. A very thorough clean every year is a good rule of thumb.The carbon build up is very stubborn, cleaning involves use of corrosive chemicals, such as Caustic soda, to dissolve the carbon build up. Another method is heating the exhaust with a gas torch, and knocking the carbon out. I tend to use the first method, as it seems kinder to the exhaust, but both methods have their pro's and con's.
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 23 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also never known rust to be a problem in a 2-stroke?

And nobody's telling you to turn your oil pump off? Did I say that? Just because you are letting the engine warm up when gently riding, doesn't mean it's getting no oil.
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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