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R6 Intermitent Fault

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Clarkie
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 01 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: R6 Intermitent Fault Reply with quote

Some times when I'm riding along the ignition will cut out, doesn't happen every ride more like 50% of the time and never at any specific time or temperature. Some of the time it will bump itself again and carry on others its forced me to pull over at the side of the road to get it going again.

When it cuts out sometimes it won't start on the button, the starter motor goes but it doesn't fire at all, it will however bump start. other times it starts after a couple of presses of the starter.

I've recently changed the reg/rec dues it cutting out but that was different as I lost the clocks and dash before the the ignition went and it started back firing.

The battery is good and has plenty of life in it, thinking it may be down to the ignition unit or switch?

Any ideas?

Thanks for any input!
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



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PostPosted: 10:49 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds elementary, but have you checked that the leads are attached to the battery terminals properly?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
It sounds elementary, but have you checked that the leads are attached to the battery terminals properly?


I seem to remember this happening to someone I know a while back....
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
I seem to remember this happening to someone I know a while back....
On more than one bike now, too. Seems to be my curse Laughing
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Clarkie
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 11:18 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked the battery terminals and everything is tight, the bike also has an immoboliser fitted but I think this disables the starter motor? Not too sure.

Also I think if it was the battery the bike still run on the alternator and reg/rec wouldn't it?

Cheers guys!
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noobRider
World Chat Champion



Joined: 23 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the fuses are all properly in. They can vibrate themselves loose
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Electrical problems like this are a fucker. Do what gerry suggests, failing that What I would do is clean and check every connector block.

I recently sorted out a miriad of electrical problems many of which I though unrelated by replacing my starter solenoid with a £15 patten one. A number of the bikes circuits run through it and it had cause the following problems.

Fuel pump cutting out.
Starter turns over weakly
Alarm not functioning.
Rough Idle
Down on power - (I didn't even realise until I replaced it)

It was revelation after I changed it, the only reason I knew it was causing issues is because it got stuck and caught fire Laughing.

The bike starts on the button, and it hadn't started so sharply in years. it was smoother and more powerful and all because I changed a £15 part which took about 10 minutes todo.

So yeah bottom line I guess is wait for something to catch fire, replace it then your bike will be fine.

HTH Laughing
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Chris describes is often caused by crap continuity, typically as a result of corrosion/fuzz buildup on contacts.

Go over the obvious connector blocks with contact cleaner, see if that makes a difference. If not, then you've got the joy of checking the loom for continuity when it's subject to movement, which is always fun.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 12:30 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
What Chris describes is often caused by crap continuity, typically as a result of corrosion/fuzz buildup on contacts.

Go over the obvious connector blocks with contact cleaner, see if that makes a difference. If not, then you've got the joy of checking the loom for continuity when it's subject to movement, which is always fun.


Another tip if you have the blade type connectors a slight twist with a pair of pliers will make a better connection if the female bit is worn.
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Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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el_oso
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Joined: 17 May 2008
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had something similar on my GSXR1000. Turns out it was a faulty side stand switch. I simply bridged the connection and it hasn't cut out since.

This reminds me, I need to jump on ebay and find myself a new side stand switch
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Clarkie
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked all the fuses, all secure.

I did find that the HT lead to the spark plug on the 4th cylinder was loose tough, could that be the cause?
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Wull
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes!!
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wull wrote:
Yes!!
Dropping a single cylinder won't cause the bike to die completely, it'll run badly enough for you to have noticed that something was amiss.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the ignition wires are not corroded or damaged at the barrel. Had the same symptoms when I had my FZR1000, tracked it down to that. Would cut the bike out at random times.
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salem1987
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

my old R6 did the same sort of thing. Turned out to be bad reg/rec combined with the carbs flooding.
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Clarkie
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pins wrote:
Check the ignition wires are not corroded or damaged at the barrel. Had the same symptoms when I had my FZR1000, tracked it down to that. Would cut the bike out at random times.


As in the ignition barrel where the key goes? Can't get inside it as they've used shear screws.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clarkie wrote:


As in the ignition barrel where the key goes? Can't get inside it as they've used shear screws.


https://i.imgur.com/ub3NDpw.jpg

Where the wires come out of the bottom. Mine was knackered, the plastic had worn away exposing the wires.

Would also be worth checking the connections where it plugs into the wiring harness. A few issues I've had over the years have been caused by the ignition.
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