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Cbr6 dropping cylinder

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Cbr6 dropping cylinder Reply with quote

Bike has been running rough usualy in very wet weather. I assumed electrics as it was fine in dry weather. It is now occurring in the dry.

The sound is cross between a blowing exhaust (its not) and a tractor. I havent noticed any massive loss of power...


All exhausts are equally hot. Going to pull sparkplugs, coils and check connectors. Any ideas?

skip to 40 seconds on, too much windnoise when riding.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxz6kZhiuWU
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orac
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

coils caps or leads, maybe a plug but those should be changed as a matter of course in fault finding.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I was wrong. Its just exuast headers blowing and rattling where the clamp is loose. The nuts are not loose. Im not going to touch it, perhaps studs coming out?

Right 2 years ago I attempted to replace downpipes, 7 studs snapped so I took it to p&h. They took head off and fixed it, £800 :o

Should last longer than 2 years/15k miles?
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

Should last longer than 2 years/15k miles?


It depends, a SS set of downpipes should last the life of the bike.

SHOULD, that is if you install them properly. This is one of the first things I check when buying a bike.

A very common mistake is to over tighten the nuts on the studs, this bends the collars. Initially it does nothing but the stretched steel corrodes in a V shape and splits the collar causing it to become loose or even snap within a short amount of time. The worse the over tightening the more the bending the faster the corrosion.

Anyway you're a brave man for wanting to change downpipes. I did it once and snapped 2 studs which were a headache.

A bit of wisdom passed to me however was... why remove the studs in the first place? unless they are badly corroded, just remove the nuts either by using a dremel to cut them off or a nut splitter. No need to touch the snap if you look at them too hard studs.


EDIT if thats a CBR6F4i in your avatar go Motad.

Sandy bike spares on the face of it look good, but cause uber flat spots (I had some on my old CBR6 carb), they also had shrunk considerably from their welding needing to be pulled apart to attach. For some stupid reason they use mild steel on the collars.

Delkevenic also cause uber flat spots.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh I am well aware Laughing the original downpipes rusted through, these are the motad replacements. In total labout cost me £800 and pipes £150. Plus a lot of tools attempting to DIY. I spent two months trying to DIY.

When I DIY removed the original exhaust, 7 studs snapped. I tried to drill one out and fucked up, so I took it to P&H who had my bike 3 months.

Not certain how they repaired it, but I was told the head needed to come off, they subcontracted the stud removal, and possibly TIG welded my fuckup ( unless its a replacement head, but it better fucking not be). I asked for some items of service - brake fluid change, pads, valve clearances (of which I have no evidence, no paper saying shim sizes or if any were changed).

I also supplied stainless M8 studs for them, but they refused and insisted on fitting plain steel M8-M6 reducing studs Evil or Very Mad

The bike was returned with the front end undone inc calliper bolts (I made them well aware it was undone even if they didnt touch it). Brakes were spongy so they re-bled her.

A week later 3 nuts had came off of the exhaust studs and was blowing badly Evil or Very Mad I was not happy and had little confidence the engine was correctly reassembled.

So the current problem - the nuts do not seem to be loose, yet the flange holding cyl 3 pipe on, is very loose. I can only assume the threads are heicoiled and have started to pull out. The motad pipes seem to be perfectly fine.

If it wasnt for sods law (if I touch it every other stud could snap), I would remove the loose studs and drill/tap for M10 straight 416-80 grade stainless studs. Or titainium, or something better.
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