A plug, Powerhouse Brake Seals.

[chris-red]

Ordered these on eBay £20.50 delivered from eBay for a kit to rebuild the rear caliper on my TDM, it didn't just include seals but also, grease, the rubber boots for the caliper pins, a bleed nipple and copper washers. It arrived next day and everything was quality. Usually pattern brake seals suck balls, these don't, every part was well made and fit perfectly. I was chuffed with these they look OEM quality, and probably cost half what Yamaha would charge.

They get 2 thumbs fresh from me.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[sickpup]

Want a little surprise?

[Jim Mc]

I want a little surprise, because i've been in the position of wanting to rebuild my brakes for a while and think £20 is still quite expensive for a few rubber seals that should in reality cost pennies to manufacture.

I think the seal kit for my bike is somewhere in the region of £60.

[totalllama82]

I use the Powerhouse ones on my ZX9 for my yearly rebuilt. Can't fault them.
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Gone: Haotian HT125-8 / Yamaha YZF 600R Thundercat / Kawasaki ZX9R C2
Current: Kawasaki ZZR 1400 A7F

[instigator]

[Knacker]

Cant lie I'm lazy, Gave the Powerhouse calliper rebuild service a go cost me about £100 with new seals for both callipers.

Brilliant service and very quick.

Inb4 - Yes I could have done them myself for the half the cost but I couldn't be arsed
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Current: Gsxr 600 Srad - GS125 - DT125
Previous: K1 GSXR 1000

[kramdra]

[robocog]

Just bought a set for the winter GPZ hack I'm building up
Popped the front pistons out (not too bad), cleaned the seal areas (again not too crusty or bad)
Got them sparkly clean (toothbrush and cocktail stick to clean seal gaps and a wipe with a rag for the pistons - nothing more aggressive than that!)

Used plenty of red rubber grease and rebuilt with the seal kit and bled them
noticed a slight dripping from the calliper as I was bleeding
It seems fluid is pushing past the seals...sigh

Have taken the calliper off and clamped pistons with G clamps and they both appear to weep, they seemed to go in OK

Popped pistons out and the seals seem they are seated OK (not twisted or out of shape) popped pistons and re-tried - got the same results

Have emailed the seller to make sure I was sent the right ones and reluctant to do the rear now

Done them before on the other bikes using wemoto or ebay cheapo seals and never had an issue

Maybe theres something odd with this calliper or pistons
Wish I had just chucked new pads in now

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[kramdra]

[sickpup]

[robocog]

I hear you, but its not the first set I have ever done

The piston on the CJ360 that had not moved in a long time I placed in my lathe and went at it with sandpaper to make the surface less of a 'rubber rippy' surface
a set of the cheapest seals also sealed well on those, despite surface pits the pistons still had

Pretty sure it is NOT due to the use of red grease (veg oil based and safe for brakes and rubbery bits)
I ALWAYS put a smear behind the rubbers to save the ally surface from getting chalky as it does if this has not been done and a smear to assist piston entering the seal without pulling the seal out the groove and tearing deforming it - if it should grab
I didnt fill the pots up with the stuff or owt daft

I know some folk like to just wet the rubbers with dot4 and do it that way, but that stuff is pretty hydrophilic and is not going to do the ally any favours

Any excess grease gets flushed through when bleeding - and I put plenty of dot4 through before the pistons got pushed back to meet the disk so contamination is not a worry

Grooves were just a little chalky/gunky and no more than a scrape and toothbrushing got them clear
Pistons had a light haze and in MUCH better condition than expected - no need to scrub the already shiney metal
(unless "honing" or scuffing them would actually assist the seal?)

Will try some different cheapo ones and if they dont hold fluid I know its something odd with this calliper and pistons - or something I'm doing or not doing which has never caught me out before

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[kramdra]

I want a lathe

Red grease should only help them seal but some people use far too much. Brake fluid will make them swell up which should help if the grease is not protecting them.. try leaving fitted a couple days. I dont know if new brake seals have any mold release or rough/smooth surface but I imagine pushing pistons in and out will help. New fork seals always need to be pumped 100 times to seal perfectly.

[robocog]

Still weeping this morning
Have got a reply and a new set of seals will be sent - along with some things to check along the way

Will be having another pick at the seal area to check its not gone powdery or something odd

If they still weep I will just look for a replacemnet more modern calliper from an SV650 or something

Lathes are handy things, but the expense can spiral easily
Mine is a 1940's Myford item, and has had a few abusive owners so I suppose it's a step above using a drill to turn the item and not much more than that

Screwcutting or accuracy are no longer achievable on this one due to wear I only use HSS tooling so its not really suitable for anything like stainless, though I have used it for small stainless stuff, it just gets frustrating if it work hardens part way through the job and just eats tool steel.

I wouldn't get rid of her though

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[robocog]

Good as their word another set of seals waiting for me when I got home tonight
Above and beyond expected service level?

If the caliper still weeps after this it is going in the bin

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...