It Broke Down :(

[petalbriefs]

My CBR125 broke down on me last night which was most inconvenient!

The battery was flat as I hadn't used it for over a week, so charged it up and decided to go for a ride to get a bit more charge in the battery.

A couple of times I noticed, that when I sat on it, it would cut out, so rechecked all the connections under the seat and it seemed fine.

Stopped it and started it a few times to make sure there was enough charge in the battery that I wouldn't get stranded and off I went.

At first it seemed a bit jerky and lost power, I thought this could be down to having maybe been a bit flooded from where I had tried to start it previously but once it got going it was fine.

Nipped to the petrol station to check tyre pressures, left it running while I did this, hopped back on, off down the road and it just died.
Completely lost power and then wouldn't start.

Its now in a garage waiting to be looked at.

Do they suffer with anything common?

I know when I first got it, I had issues with it cutting out when I sat on it but once connections were fiddled with, has been fine ever since.

Also, if the very nice chap on the other CBR125, that stopped to see if I was ok, is on here, thank you, that was really nice of you
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Proud owner of an R6 + ZXR400
Honda CBR 125 R - Stolen

[P.addy]

What year?

First few years up to 07 had issues with coils. Honda have a thing about regulators shitting themselves.
Instead of stopping and starting, just grab a cheap multimeter and check the voltage on the battery, or wire in a voltage display

Also, assume your battery connections are tighter than a nuns poon hole?

[Copycat73]

my money is on a new battery
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Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[petalbriefs]

Had a new battery a couple of months ago and the connections are definitely tight.
It's an 07MY
I'll have to buy a multimeter. It is in a garage at the moment, so hopefully it won't be expensive to sort. Just wondered if there was any common issues and whether they're expensive
It's got an alarm and immobiliser on, wonder if that could be causing it.....?
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Proud owner of an R6 + ZXR400
Honda CBR 125 R - Stolen

[Rogerborg]

When I'm Emperor, I will make it a law that before buying a new battery, you must tick a box saying "I have tested my charging circuit with a £5 multimeter and verify that I am not just pissing my money away needlessly."
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[wr6133]

[petalbriefs]

The place I bought the bike from paid for the battery, cos I'd only had the bike a little while when it went flat. They just offered to replace it, so seemed silly to refuse.
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Proud owner of an R6 + ZXR400
Honda CBR 125 R - Stolen

[map]

[Copycat73]

[Rogue_Shadow]

[Copycat73]

[petalbriefs]

No, I bought battery and they paid for it, so definite brand new battery.
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Proud owner of an R6 + ZXR400
Honda CBR 125 R - Stolen

[mudcow007]

could it be reg/rec?

as previously said, you need to get your multimeter out, bang battery on charge again..start it up an get poking!

[CG Sam]

Another vote for multimeter. Simple to use, and much better at diagnosing a problem than just prodding and hitting things to see if it makes them work.
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CG125, SV650S, CBR600F, GSXR600 SRAD

[petalbriefs]

Ok, to appease the emperor and his sledge hammer wielding henchmen............. I have ordered one multimeter!

Now need a manual on how to use the thing......................................
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Proud owner of an R6 + ZXR400
Honda CBR 125 R - Stolen

[wr6133]

[P.addy]

I would be looking at the regulator if your new battery is going fat during rides.

[map]

[CG Sam]

Just jump onto youtube for some how to videos, they really are simple pieces of kit.
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CG125, SV650S, CBR600F, GSXR600 SRAD

[WD Forte]

I had issues with it cutting out when I sat on it

Hmmmmm
how can I put this?.....
would you uhh.... perhaps be of the fuller figure persuasion?


A meter is a must have.
A few simple checks even with a cheapo meter can save time, money and the inconvenience of breakdowns.
When it comes, it may have a dial that seems to have all sorts of confusing options, but all you generally need on a bike is the settings for
DC voltage and resistance.
Continuity test can be handy but sometimes a resistance test is better
Diode test is good for testing rectifiers.
Money well spent.
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bikers smell of wee

[petalbriefs]

[bikenut]

there will be instructions with it duddette......you say there is an alarm/immobilizer fitted to the bike....and that before...you fiddlesd with the wqires and it was ok after??m is the saddle etc etc etc pinching any wires/cut any wires?? and there is no rag under the saddle which bloks the air intake when you place your bum and weight on the saddle????

your pic suggests you weigh 8 stone?
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nuts about bikes

[CG Sam]

[Teflon-Mike]

If you have an imobiliser alarm; that would be high on my list of suspects.

Imobliser-alarms can have a quite hefty current draw when 'armed'... maybe as much as 250mA of a Amp, powering up the radio reciever listening out for commands from your key-fob, and doing it's thig pumping electric round waiting for a circuit to be opened or cosed on a tilt switch or whatever they have the, or current to be sensed on a wire that shouldn't see any f bike switched 'off'.

9Ah or 9 amp-Hour battery can supply 9Amps for one hour, or one amp for nine hours.... so if the avarage draw from an imobliser is just 25mA, that means 360hours, aprox two weeks, from fully charged to flat, JUST keepig the alarm 'on'..

If the alarm is tripped at ay poit, like y a cat, likely to take ore, and flatte battery sooner, even faster if the alarm goes off, and it starts suckig a full amp making claxon sound, and then recharging its internal battery.

The things can suck a battery dry within a few days, i some situations, but generally if you have an imobiliser alarm, you are adviced to gve the thing a good hard ru at least once a week or put the battery on charge to keep it topped up.

HOWEVER.. back to practicalities; Imobiliser works, by having a relay switch in series with the ignition switch. You de-activate the alarm, alarm takes amps from battery and puts them throgh the relay to turn 'on' the igition, before you put the key in and start the engne.

If you have a very flat or old tired battery, and or less than ideal starter ad starter solenoid... when you press the starter button, the battery voltage can drop from around 12v to something under 6v... starter will still turn, its gettig its amps, but probably a bit slower than it would... 'trouble' is that the imobiliser relay, wont get the volts it needs to keep the ignition crcuit 'on'.. so you sit there cranking the motor like you forgot to check the kill-switch.

OK, so you charge battery for ten minutes or so.. you get enough charge ito it to keep imobiliser relay 'on' and get engine started... BUT starting has walloped the battery, and all that is NOW chargig it is the engine.

Generator can bang out a lot of watts.. but only if the engie is spining fast enough. If the motor is idling, might only just make enough watts ore that is being used to power the ignition and fuel injection , and barely sending anything to the battery to charge it back up.

Stick lights on.... and you may still be dischargng the battery, not chargig it.....

Now stop at petrol station, after little thrash to get it warm and put some charge in battery... AND leave it runing while you pump up the tyres.... its a water cooled engine, there is no air flow through the radiator... 250W fan turns on t blow some air through and cool it down..... big current draw back on the battery, possibly a voltage drop and you are back to dischargig not charging and at quite a bg rate... and at sme poit there wont be volts or amps to keep imobiliser relay turned on.. bike conks out.

Could be utterly co-incidental this happens just as you sit on it.

If EFI bike (07 would be on the change over or there-abouts I thik, so not sure) then you don't need an imobliser to get similar scenario; you have a fuel pump and electric brain, that needs amps to keep putting petrol to the cyclnder, that can do the same sort of thing.

So... my first course would be to get a decent battery charger, NOT an optimiser, propper charger, on the battery, and get the thing fully ad properly charged.....

Multi-Meter is good for testing f you have volts where you should, which is great, if you know where you should have volts, AND you have volts the battery to put them there!

And if you have simply got a cronically low battery o the threshold of being able to deliver amps when required, may find that gettig it properly charged up... there is actually nothing else wrong to find with a multi-meter.

But for £5 for a analogue one of-ebay, they are a good gizmo to have. You dont need aything fancy for basic car or bike electrics; DC volts for checking fees wires, ad an Ohms or Continuity setting to see if electric can get fro one end of a wire to the other, ad simple swing needle display, you dot really need the numbers, just to see f it moves, so find a lot quicker and easier to read than digital ones that make umbers, that often change, and leave you waiting for the thing to 'settle' and give you a reading to see what's gong on. Analogue meters also dont need batteries to test volts, only for continuity.

Bit on 'intermittent' fault described, you do have frustrating issue of hunting a moving target, and trial and error, may be required, and fixig thigs that merely 'look' like they could e a problem, and hopig problem goes away. Like cleanig coections and earths and nippng up bullet coectors to grip better so they are less likely to shake loose.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[petalbriefs]