I'm confused by my central heating...

[Dalemac]

Right. We have a combi boiler, a single channel timer and a thermostat.

Currently, when the thermostat is turned up, it clicks, the central heating comes on regardless of whatever program the single channel timer is on (on, off, auto, all day - it doesn't matter).

What's the point in having a single channel timer if as it doesn't actually do anything? I was under the impression that you set the thermostat to the desired temperature, and then when the single channel timer program kicks in, it brings the house up to temp accordingly. Likewise, when the program times out, the central heating is turned off. Thermostat stays where it is.

It's annoying because it means we have to either have the thermostat set constantly (basically always on) or get up and adjust the thermostat to get warm in the mornings.

I'd just like to add that the single channel timer was replaced over summer as the (very) old one died. I wired it up, but the behavior I mentioned above was identical under for the old single channel timer too.

What do I need to do the get this setup how I want?
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YBR125 -> GPZ500S -> SL1000

[andy_uk]

Sounds like something was wired up incorrectly between the boiler, thermostat and timer from the start...

What make & model of boiler & timer?
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Aprilia Classic 125, GS500E, ER5-A1, ER5-C4, ER6 & an XJ6 project frame...

[Dalemac]

The boiler is a a vaillant ecotec pro 24 (unsure of year). The thermostat is an old iflo one.

edit:

this is the thermostat: https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/p/iflo-room-thermostat/985628/3961015
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YBR125 -> GPZ500S -> SL1000

[dydey90]

Sounds like that timer isn't doing anything... They should both having to be giving the ok for the boiler to come on.

Just set the thermostat low and leave it, apparently that's the most efficient way to heat your house.
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This post is probably not serious and shouldn't be taken literally.
Past: CBR125,ER6f NINJA 650, ZZR600 Current: VFR750

[Fowlersrs]

Sounds to me like there's a permanent live feeding the room stat thus bringing the boiler on when u turn up the stat, they way it should be wired is the permanent live goes into your timer and then onto the roomstat, something's adrift somewhere there for sure! Unless your programmer is broken and is just permanently making a connection thus feeding a permanent supply to the stat....

Edit, just seen you've replaced the programmer, something's adrift, I'd be checking your not always putting a supply on the room stat permanently! If you take the cover off the room stat. Be CAREFUL as the supply could be live, check the pins you have wired with a multimeter (they're numbered) and relay them here with what has 240v with the programmer in the off position.

[Dalemac]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Removed the back of the thermostat - three pins, Neutral, Live and Call

With the programmer off, Neutral -> Live show nothing. Neutral -> call show nothing. Live -> call shows nothing.

with the programmer on, exactly the same! Even more confused now....
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YBR125 -> GPZ500S -> SL1000

[Fowlersrs]

[Dalemac]

My mistake. Multimeter 'malfunction' *cough*.

Yeah, neutral to live shows 242 volts permanently.

Now that i think about it, there was a piece of wire that was going from one terminal directly to another when i installed the new timer. Could have been bypassing the live. The old timer, if i remember correctly, didn't have an 'all day' setting so that might have been a hack to have the heating on constantly and have it controlled by the thermostat. When i replaced the timer, I didn't question it at the time and wired it up as it was previously.

I'll whip the timer off again tomorrow after work and post back the results. Don't fancy poking it anymore while i am tired.

Thanks for the help
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YBR125 -> GPZ500S -> SL1000

[Fowlersrs]

[thx1138]

I have a Vaillant, clocks knackered, I just turn the heating on and off with the thermostat and have done for years

[rideslikean00...]

[Raffles]

If you're using mains voltage timer controls and thermostats then you need to ensure that the bridge within the boilers internal 24V input circuit has been removed.
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A good loser will always be a loser.

[Dalemac]

Whipped off the timer and thermostat again tonight and it's very odd.

As you can see from the attachment, for the timer there is a neutral wire (n), live wire (l) and a second live, which is fed into the '3' pin. From the 3rd pin, there is a little wire loop which also makes the '1' pin constantly live. As far as I can work out, the connections between pin 1 and 3 are pointless, as is the second live into pin 3.

On the thermostat, N and L are constantly live.

It doesn't appear that the timer is connected to the thermostat in any way. There is an inline fuse box which kills the power to both the timer and thermostat so would the next step be to look at the wiring at this fuse? I'm no electrician but this whole setup seems crazy to me!

Any more suggestions?
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YBR125 -> GPZ500S -> SL1000

[Clanger]

[Fowlersrs]

[Fowlersrs]

[Dalemac]

[Fowlersrs]

If you take that link out, between 1&3 and put the programmer back on, test what u then have on the room stat at L with the programmer back on but actually turned off.. It should be 0v if it's not then your room stat is being fed from somewhere else, which is wrong!


Basically the link is putting 240v from 1> 3, this is then going from 3 to the roomstat I would think..

This is wrong as the timer makes a connection between 1 & 3 when u turn it on anyway so there's no need for that wire to be there.. It's simply bypassing the programmer

[bladerunner]

just a quick question...if its a combi boiler..then it does both hot water and heating yes? if you have it set to do hot water on demand,i.e. turn the tap then it kicks in the boiler to do hot water and the timer is to do the heating on a timer...then your diverter valve maybe suspect...as a failsafe it will quite often be in the half open setting or trying to charge both your taps and central heating at the same time ( the boiler can or should only be able to supply one circuit at a time)...from what your saying the heating will kick in whenever you turn the temp up for your hot water thermostat? maybe you have an issue with which control sets the temp for which circuit as hot water is on demand(ie tap open) and your heating should only fire when both its the "on time" and the heating thermostat is showing the water is below set temp! so simple question....do you get hot water every time you open the taps or only if its set on the timer to be on?
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[Dalemac]

[N cee thirty]

[Al]

It completely depends on the house and the boiler, a modern boiler heats up very quickly but an old system with a cast iron heat exchanger and large bore pipework can take a while.
An old terrace house with no insulation will need the boiler running continuously at full pelt and probably never achieve the 21c or whatever the stats set to, while a highly insulated modern apartment with underfloor heating would stay heated 24/7 with the boiler just ticking over using next to no gas.
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