Buying 2nd hand tips?

[Barnoe]

I passed my test, but so far the only bike ive owned is a brand new 125.
Stepping up to a big bike will more than likely mean i have to buy second hand. what do i need to check when buying a bike?

I know there is probably a long list, but what is the main points to save tears later (and my wallet)

Ive seen a bike for 2k but its a 1998 bike, i cant help thinking i could be buying lots of trouble :/

Sadly i dont have any biker mates who can go with me everytime i decide to check one out

The other option is probably a SV650s which are only 4k new.... i could part ex mine and finance the rest.
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You know you are old when you're told to slow down by your doctor and not the police.

[Val]

You can have many nice bikes for 2k. Search on ebay for bikes more then 600cc, under £2100, manufactured after 2007 returns a lot of bikes:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Motorcycles-Scooters-/422/i.html?Capacity%2520%2528cc%2529=525%2520to%2520674%2520cc|675%2520to%2520824%2520cc|825%2520to%2520974%2520cc|975%2520to%25201159%2520cc|1160%2520to%25201334%2520cc&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=777&_udhi=2%2C122&Model%2520Year=2014|2013|2012|2011|2010|2009|2008|2007&_dcat=422&_sop=16

You just need to decide what do you want. I would look for 3-7 years old and low mileage bike.
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Adrian Monk: Unless I'm wrong, which, you know, I'm not...
Yamaha Fazer FZS 600, MT09, XSR 900

[Rogerborg]

What will you be using it for?
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[monkeybiker]

I would never buy 2nd hand chips.

[Baffler186]

Firstly, narrow it down to a few that will suit your needs (and of course that you like the look of). A 600cc is a popular first big bike, but there are quite a few to choose from. Otherwise, higher capacities are not necessarily bad choices, again, depends what you want it for. Check out MCN reviews which often gives a general idea about fuel consumption, service intervals, insurance groups etc.

When buying, do as many background checks as you can (V5, HPI clear etc) so everything legally checks out.

Ask to start the bike yourself - you shouldn't have to have "the nack" to start it. I had an old bandit where you had to apply downward pressure in order to turn the ignition key; which the seller did and I didn't notice

Start the bike up from cold, make sure all the lights, switches etc work and flash at the correct speed. Listen for any tapping/clicking/rattles from both sides. You can chat about the bike whilst it's warming up. When warm, switch it off and ask to check the oil and other fluid levels. Oil should be golden if just changed, and will be blacker and smellier the older it is.

Check all the stuff that you were shown on CBT for pre-ride checks. Any play in either wheel, chain condition and tension plus anything else you can do without stripping the bike, such as check for holes in the exhaust system, rusty headers, any damage to radiator. Check the brakes work and try to spin the both wheels (easy if it's on a centre stand) and see if the brakes are binding - they should spin freely without any significant rubbing. You can usually see how much pad is left on the brakes as well.

Check for crash damage, different colour panels, touched-up paint work etc.

Ask to take the seat off if seller allows it. Check battery condition (shouldn't have any corrosion or bulges). Again, make sure condition of all the consumables is consistent with it's service history (which if not documented, you should assume hasn't been done). Check free play on the clutch and brakes, should be well adjusted. Check steering goes from lock to lock frely without snagging any cables and without catching on fairing etc.

Test rides will be dependent on the seller, but sit on the thing it at the very least. If test ride isn't an option, get the seller to ride it and change up through every gear, there shouldn't be any flatspots/bogging down/spluttering.

Remember the seller wants to sell it, so won't point out any niggles or bad points unless interrogated. Even then, don't believe any crap like "that's an easy fix; £10 off E-bay". If easy stuff needs doing, ask yourself why the seller hasn't done this (is it a PITA job, expensive).

TL:DR version - pretend you're MOTing it and doing your pre-ride checks. Make a list (as you will probably forget to do some stuff). If it's not documented with receipts, assume it didn't happen.
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Current: 2009 SV650 S, 1990 Kawasaki GT550
Previous: 2009 CBF125, 1998 GSF600, 2004 FZ6 Fazer, 1978 CB400a Hondamatic

[Polarbear]

^^^ What he said is a fair shout but do remember that it isn't a new bike and somethings you might have to change. Consumables are just that, consumables. A good bargaining point for knocking down teh price.

Remember to factor who is doing the work. ie, knackerd chain and sprokets is not such a big deal if you do it your self, £150 off ebay but if you are getting a bike shop to do it thats at least double.

Listen to the bloke (or girl) selling it. Unless they are class1 liars or actors you will get an instant idea if they are genuine or trying to pull the wool over your eyes. Go with that 1st impression!
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[Wonko The Sane]

Don't write off getting an older bike, my 1999 Kawasaki is my main transport, it's only left me stranded when I ran out of petrol.

Yes, I've had a couple of problems some of which could happen to any bike,

For older bikes you do need to do a bit more homework for faults that come to light at a certain millage that need to be sorted.
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Looking to pass your CBT / Bike tests in Bury Lancashire? try www.focusridertraining.co.uk Would recommend.
They're also on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Focus-Rider-Training/196832923734251

[FlightRisk]

Definitely make a list, also have a look around at the price of bits for your chosen bike to get a feel for how much things will cost you if you need to replace. A bike might seem cheap but once you've added up the cost of new tyres, the odd clutch or throttle cable, chain & sprockets, brake parts etc. it suddenly won't seem so cheap anymore.

Seriously best thing you can do is find a new biker mate to go along and help you out. I did my research beforehand but still missed a couple of things and underestimated the cost of sorting a couple of things just through inexperience. Now I enjoy the fettling so I didn't go too far wrong but if I'd been paying someone else to do the work I'd have been .
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Honda CB500S

[Barnoe]

I passed my test on a CBF600 must admit it was a nice ride,
You would think a CBF125 and a CBF 600 would feel the same just with more power.
However they are nothing alike! feel different and a different seating position too

But i like CBRs, SVs, GSXR, Bandits, Ninjas, Hornets... in other words, all sorts :/

i would use the Bike daily as my main transport, i do have use of the wife's car if weather gets icy.
Commuting to work isnt such a big thing, its about 2 miles lol
but i would use the bike for all other journeys including rides out.

Reliability is a big thing, cos i know nothing about fixing bikes at all, so all work will be done by mechanics. So obviously if i buy a sack of crap its going to be off the road while i save up :/
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You know you are old when you're told to slow down by your doctor and not the police.

[stevo as b4]

The best thing you can do is count yourself lucky!
There is a world of pretty awesome secondhand bikes out there for £2k and you can if not in a rush have a choice of countless fine motorcycles!

You should have a decent tyre kicking check list and know what to look for in terms of legitimacy, mechanical integrity, and cosmetic issues, that may be useful bargaining points.

Never write off a really good solid bike, that is just in need of a few new consumables, if the rest of the bike is good, and honest. But again if you turn up to a bike with bald tyres, stretched dry chain and hooked sprockets, various damaged cosmetics, signs of bodgery or other things like drilled sump plugs for lock wire etc, then the message you should be getting is run away!

The big things to check for that are the most vital are:
1, Is it stolen/ever been stolen&recovered?
2, Numbers are correct against the logbook. If the engine number is different the seller should be able to give a credible explanation why and receipts to prove purchase of other engine etc?
3, Newish bikes still on finance?
4, Is there signs it's been down the road, and badly repaired?
5, Id check for troublesome things like aftermarket alarms, and messy bodged wiring under the seat etc.

6, Mechanical std checks, brakes, suspension, bearings, tyres, drive train. Check how clean the oil and coolant are as indications to how it's been looked after.

7, Does it start and stop ok, no blowing exhausts, oil/coolant leaks when warm. Any funny noise's? Do all the controls and electrics work ok.

8, Test riding if possible is very recommended, but IMO your testing the bike to make sure it go's and stops ok, not to suss out the ergonomics, or if its your kind of machine etc.

An assessment test ride need only be short 500m- 2km should cover it, and your looking for obvious issues, bad running, misfires, shot suspension, warped brake discs, jumping out of gear etc.

If you like the bike after the checks and a test ride when possible, but your aware it has some issue's, worn components or needs a few things doing, then don't be afraid to point these out to the seller and make a considered offer to reflect the cost of any work it may need to make good.

Chances are if you pick up on a fault or parts that need attention/replacement everyone else who looks at/test rides the bike will too. Sometimes a clueless seller that's never had another bike, might think thier bike that has said issues is normal as they don't know any better.

if you make an offer on a bike that needs some genuine work, i.e not because of a cracked screen or a thumbnail size scuff on the fairing, the seller might well tell you to feck off, but it's not a problem as there will always be another bike out there instead.