Honda GC 125 STRANGE PROBLEM ?

[themadatter]

HI,

I bought a 1991 cg 125.

It has the old point ignition system.

I put a new battery in it and the indicators work, but no parked lights or headlights !

Is this normal ?

is there bikes out there that wont turn the headlight on unless you start it ?

Also, I cant start it to test as there is no spark !, a points problem i believe.

Thanks,

Jamie

[Azmodeus]

Well, my moped wont do anything (horn, lights, indicators) unless the ignition is on


Oh, and welcome to the forums

[themadatter]

sorry, i ment unless the engine is actually running !!

Thanks

Jp

[Azmodeus]

Yer, thats what I meant. Nothing works until the engine is running.

[stinkwheel]

That is perfectly normal. The parking light is actually a 'daylight visibility' or 'position' light.

The bikes lighting system is called direct lighting and runs on unrectified power generated by the alternator when the engine is running. No engine= no headlights. The flashers and brake light use power from the battery.

This is quite common on older design, small capacity bikes.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Will87]

Yea the lights run off the engine , it's abolsutely appalling for indicators when you have lights on, and brake light applied.

[themadatter]

thanks for setting my mind at ease everyone !

ok, one other bit of advice needed.

I need to get at my points..

I need to get this big plate out held on by 3 star head bolts.
only problem is, theres a huge thing on the end of my crank and i cant get it off.

anybody tell me what it is and how to get it off ! ??

thanks

Jamie

[stinkwheel]

Dude! What I said earlier still stands in that I have not worked on a CG125, but I just looked at the rotor of a C90 engine which is broadly similar. Please tell me the inside of your rotor looks something like the the attached piccy, with particular reference to the tubular bit fixed to the inside of the casting (appologies for blurriness, batteries nearly flat) and is a snug fit over the end of the crank.

I just had a horrible feeling that you have ripped the middle out of the flywheel Hope I am wrong!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Will87]

I have the haynes manual, i'm not sure what you have done but i can't help but fear along with stinkwheel, i'll scan the relevant pages tomorrow.

[themadatter]

OH NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't worry, it's ok, I have not ripped the flywheel apart, although when i first got it off the thought did cross my mind until i examined it inside and realised theres NO WAY that thingwas part of the flywheel.

Anyway heres a pic to maybe give a clue or two..

I have the haynes manual also but find it very unhelpful as it is to general and doesnt cover this particular bit at all, infact according the my haynes manual this bit does not exist.

maybe its all in my head then ?

Well I still apreciate the help and feels good to have input from people !



BTW, this is a really good forum !

[Born2bVile]

Yup, that's your flywheel.

It is possible (but very fiddly) to adjust the points through the cut-outs on the flywheel.

To remove it, you really need a flywheel extractor. I bought one about 20 years ago and may still have it knocking about. I'll have a look tomorrow.

The main problem (and this can cause MAJOR problems) is that there is a small piece of metal on the crank (called a woodruff key, if I remember rightly) which slots into the flywheel. Line them up wrong and you'll have some major problems. The woodruff key (which is a crecent shaped piece of metal which fits into a slot on the crank) will distort the slot, making it useless.

My advice is learn to adjust the points through the slot. It's fiddly as you need to get a screwdriver, feeler gauges and something pointy to actually move the points in there.

A gynacologist probably designed it

Cheers,

Byrnie.
____________________
NABD Treasurer
National Association for Bikers with a Disability
Reg Charity No. 1040907

[carnislick]

i had the same problem on my CG,

i missed it being fixed as i had a driving lesson, wish i had seen it though.

im sure a service manual for the bike will tell you the correct gap distance for the points.

go to a bike shop and just ask or something.

sorry i cant help more.

Paul
____________________
Paul

[themadatter]

Hi,

thanks !
at last some light on the situation.

however, i have bought a new backing plate etc, and need this thing off.
+ as you can see i already have the flywheel off !!


can you tell me what it does and how to get it off ?


any any info on realigning it !!

+Paul, glad to hear you got it sorted ! where you adjusting the points ?


thanks

Jamie

[Born2bVile]

[stinkwheel]

I think the problem is, he wants to take the stator plate off. He is being prevented from doing so by a metal collar about 1" in diameter and 2" long with a flared end that has two notches cut in it which appears to be fitted over the end of the crank. I don't know what this bit is and can find no reference to it in my H100 and C90 manuals (which are broadly similar in that area) but it is fairly clear from his piccy that you will not be able to slide the stator plate over the end of the crank with this in place.

I still reckon that if it turns with the crank, it should pull off. The flange looks wide enough to take a 3-leg puller.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Born2bVile]

If replacing the points is the purpose of this excercise, then the flwheel is all that needs to be removed.

Or am I missing something (besides hair and sanity)?

Cheers,

Byrnie.
____________________
NABD Treasurer
National Association for Bikers with a Disability
Reg Charity No. 1040907

[stinkwheel]

He has a new stator plate that he wants to fit (given that the one he has looks pretty shagged from his piccy, it is not a bad idea). He didn't mention this in his post but PM'ed me about it earlier.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[themadatter]

hi all

yea sorry, the plate im talking about is the stator plate.

need to replace; and this thing is in my my way !

thanks

Jp

[themadatter]

HI all,

Well I got my friend to have a look and he just hit this thing real hard with a hamme and it came off.
Looked like it was lightly pressed on.

So thats that then !

Jp

[Born2bVile]

[Born2bVile]

[themadatter]

Hello,


Got a new plate and coils etc,

HAVE A SPARK NOW !!!

but, bike will not start.

i can smell burnt fuel and it may turn over 1 or two times after i have picked it then give little pop.

Is this becasue i have not the points gap set properly ? sounds like the timing is off if ever i heard it.

I have follwed the manual and poke a screw driver in through the flywheel and loosen the points screw, then rotate te flywheel till i get the F on the wheel lined up with the mark on the stator plate.

At this point i push another driver in and push the points sp they JUST open then tighten them.

am i doing this wrong !

let me know please !!! i dont want to get any more busses.

thanks
Jamie

[Born2bVile]

It does sound like the points aren't set right.

I usually set the points by eye, as you have done. Check the opening gap with a feeler gauge though. It may be that they are opening wider than they should be. If they are, then set them try resetting them to the point where you think they are about to open, but aren't. The eye can deceive, but feeler gauges don't.

It's a bugger trying to explain this. I know what I mean, but it's difficult to explain without showing.

It's case of trial and error, but make sure the gap is right before trying to fire it up.

Cheers,

Byrnie.
____________________
NABD Treasurer
National Association for Bikers with a Disability
Reg Charity No. 1040907

[themadatter]

Hi there

I did it by eye at the start until i realised i was working with .35 mm and decided i needed another way.

I discovered how to do it with a multimeter , testing the resistance of the points wire.

Basically the exact point where they open i get increased resistance.

So this way i can do it with much accuracy; and according to my multimeter they open at exactly where the F aligns with the line of the stator plate.

I just turn the flywheel around 'anticlockwise' and take the readings.

I have one screwdriver on the points arm screw and loosen it until i get low restance (points closed) then with another screwdriver I push the points arm up until i get increased restance (points open) I then tighten the retaining screw and verify by turning the flywheel a few times and watching as the F lines up and the multimeter shows points open,


does this sound right ?

Thanks
JP