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Soft brake lever - Front Drum. Brake cable?

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Baron von helmet
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 02 Dec 2014    Post subject: Soft brake lever - Front Drum. Brake cable? Reply with quote

Anyone got much knowledge on Drum brake issue's? guess most people are on discs.
Thought I'd change the pads as part of a re-build I'm doing on a Honda CG (first bike) and the brake cable. Having put it all back together and adjusted the cable so the pads are almost touching the braking surface of the drum when I pull the lever the wheel does stop but i can continue to pull the lever in till it hits the handle-bar. have flattened off the pads to match the surface of the drum using some chalk to show where they need it. could it be the new cable is stretching? I'm a bit stumped as it's not the most complex braking system but didn't think a new cable would be a problem.
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 02 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

How effective is the brake, at slowing and stopping the bike?
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zapmole
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PostPosted: 20:24 - 02 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's an adjuster on the brake lever to take out any excess play before pulling on the cable try this first. Look in the Haynes manual if your not sure
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 02 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrong cable, (too long).
or
Not adjusted correctly.

Have you got the correct spring on the drum end of the cable and the correct springs that hold the shoes together on the brake plate?

Nowt wrong with drum brakes if they're set up correctly.
Preferred them on my mini!
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 02 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends how effective the braking is with the shoes touching the drum and as you progressively squeeze the lever.


I have recently completely overhauled the handbrake system on my car, and adjusted it so the pads were in contact, then backed it off by 1/4 of a turn on the adjuster nut, so the wheels spin freely.
After one click on the handbrake ratchet it'll hold the car on a steep slope.
After two clicks it'll hold the car on the flat so well that it'll stall before you can drive off, and lock the wheels if you're moving.

It can still get up to 6 clicks though before the handbrake reaches the top of its travel.



If the braking force increases appropriately as you pull the level, and there is some braking with light squeezing and lots of braking with lots of squeezing.


Otherwise it could be incorrectly adjusted, or the wrong length cable, or incorrect or worn springs.
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Baron von helmet
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 02 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the replies.
It does stop the wheel, but the bike isn't in a mobile state at the moment so don't know how this would translate into actually stopping the bike. guessing not very well. Why would the location of the arm on the spline make a difference? (it is at the right angle visually per the Haynes)
I haven't changed any springs etc just the pads and fitted the springs that came with them. it feels as if something is flexing but not sure what. Perhaps a shorter cable is the answer. wish I'd just left it alone now as it worked really well before. ain't broke don't fix it!
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 05:13 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you re adjust the cable after fitting the new shoes?

play in the pivots can make them feel flexy but remember this is a drum brake so you have flex in all sorts of places like the back plate.

If it is really bad it could be the inner cable worn thin on the outer sheath the outer sheath takes a lot of the strain when operating a cable.

Worn wheel bearings can make them feel odd too,
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 09:50 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

unitynotsocrippledatmo wrote:
Check the brake arm on the drum is set on the correct spline BEFORE tightening up the cable/adjuster.

Praying can help , especially with cg drums!



there is a little indent mark on the arm & spline thingy make sure these match up

my CG brakes were terrible, but i got them working good enough to lock the front wheel up Shocked
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davebike
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loosen the wheel spindle tie the brake on with a bungee cord re-tighten the spindle re adjust the cable

You have centred the brake
Good practice when working on drum brakes few remember it now !
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

davebike wrote:
Loosen the wheel spindle tie the brake on with a bungee cord re-tighten the spindle re adjust the cable

You have centred the brake
Good practice when working on drum brakes few remember it now !


This.^

I get the exact same on the Enfield unless I centre the brake exactly. Harder to get it too far off on a CG125, the Enfield has a dished nut that allows a lot of angular movement.

Other than that, I'd be checking the start e of the cable outer for kinks/damage and to make sure it's properly seated in both ends.
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Baron von helmet
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
davebike wrote:
Loosen the wheel spindle tie the brake on with a bungee cord re-tighten the spindle re adjust the cable

You have centred the brake
Good practice when working on drum brakes few remember it now !


This.^

I get the exact same on the Enfield unless I centre the brake exactly. Harder to get it too far off on a CG125, the Enfield has a dished nut that allows a lot of angular movement.

Other than that, I'd be checking the start e of the cable outer for

kinks/damage and to make sure it's properly seated in both ends.


Wheel spindle being the axle right? not sure what your asking me to do Embarassed remove the wheel from the forks and check the brake is located in the wheel properly? using a bundee to hold it in place? I have taken it on and off several times when I was sanding the brake shoes down to match the inner brake surface it goes back fairly obviously as theres 2 raised lips to sort of guide it in. It's really frustrating when you put new parts on something and this happens...i'll go back out in the shed and have another look, fooking Rain again!
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Baron von helmet
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
did you re adjust the cable after fitting the new shoes?

play in the pivots can make them feel flexy but remember this is a drum brake so you have flex in all sorts of places like the back plate.

If it is really bad it could be the inner cable worn thin on the outer sheath the outer sheath takes a lot of the strain when operating a cable.

Worn wheel bearings can make them feel odd too,


Its a new cable and new shoes and new brake lever. I've obviously got a wrong part somehwhere or something isn't fitted correctly. but its so simple not sure what
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baron von helmet wrote:


Wheel spindle being the axle right? not sure what your asking me to do Embarassed remove the wheel from the forks and check the brake is located in the wheel properly? using a bundee to hold it in place? I have taken it on and off several times when I was sanding the brake shoes down to match the inner brake surface it goes back fairly obviously as theres 2 raised lips to sort of guide it in. It's really frustrating when you put new parts on something and this happens...i'll go back out in the shed and have another look, fooking Rain again!


In the case of a CG. Loosen the wheel nut, pull the brake on, tighten the wheel nut. There's room for a little float in there but not much.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 03 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you buy genuine Honda brake shoes or pattern parts?

When installing new shoes did you file down the trailing/leading edge of the braking material?

Do not forget that the old shoes would have caused troughs and ridges in the drum brake itself,so new shoes may well take some time to bed in.Did the new shoes fit as accurately on the fixed post and where the cam post that actuates the shoes?Did you clean the swept area of the drum brake with emery cloth and some brake cleaner?

And lastly,did you remove and clean the cam actuating shaft and lubricate with some high melting point grease?
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Baron von helmet
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PostPosted: 00:55 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Baron von helmet wrote:


Wheel spindle being the axle right? not sure what your asking me to do Embarassed remove the wheel from the forks and check the brake is located in the wheel properly? using a bundee to hold it in place? I have taken it on and off several times when I was sanding the brake shoes down to match the inner brake surface it goes back fairly obviously as theres 2 raised lips to sort of guide it in. It's really frustrating when you put new parts on something and this happens...i'll go back out in the shed and have another look, fooking Rain again!


In the case of a CG. Loosen the wheel nut, pull the brake on, tighten the wheel nut. There's room for a little float in there but not much.


I did try this and I also put the lever back where the punch mark was as it was a few teeth off. The adjustment now goes most the way down the thread on the lower end of the brake cable, so will try a shorter cable. Metioned above is to try adjusting at the other end first, but there is nothing just a metal cap over the outer-cable that sort of wedges into the lever. There is though a slight gap between the brake plate (the lump that comes out) and the bit it sits inside. But the picture in my haynes shows that its flush inside the brake carrier bit but I dont know if this is an older bike in the haynes and a little different.
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