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Damp problems / Cavity wall insulation grants

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Stobo91
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Damp problems / Cavity wall insulation grants Reply with quote

https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/utilities/free-cavity-loft-insulation#how

Just wondering if anyone has taken advantage of any of these wall/loft insulation grants?

We are new home owners, bought our first property (4 bed semi) last October and before that lived with the parents. We only moved in in March so this is the first winter we are experiencing.

The guttering is gash, wind has disconnected and broken the downpipe and it really needs replacing all round. Aswell as the soffits and fascias.

This is a priority as we are starting to get damp patches around the home which we believe is due to the guttering. The bricks are mortar on the outside of the house (where the damp is) looks ok so we believe water must be getting inside the cavity and running down the wall? We have two major patches of dame, one is upstairs on the side of the house in the babies bedroom in the bottom corner (right next to her cot). And the other is downstairs in the kitchen behind all our new kitchen units and appliances.

This has then led me onto looking at the wall insulation grants. British Gas are doing one which it looks like we meet the criteria for:

Quote:

Your home will not qualify if...

You have solid walls - you cannot get these insulated, it’s only for cavity walls.
You have existing loft insulation. It'll need to be less than 50mm thick and cover less than a third of the loft to qualify for this deal.
You live in the following postcode areas: PH21-PH27, PH32-PH40, PA20-27, PA30-PA38, AB and IV and the Scottish Islands.
Having loft and cavity insulation fitted won't save a certain amount of carbon.


Ive only been in the loft once or twice but there is definitely loft insulation up there. Im sure it covers at least 50% of the loft but can't see why this would restrict us just getting the walls done? Can i rip up the existing and get all new fitted?

And it also says any damp problems need to be sorted before insulation can be fitted.

We've moved baby to a smaller damp free bedroom where she will be staying until this is sorted. House is always kept between 15-20 deg and windows opened regulary to circulate the air.

Does it sound like the guttering is the main culprit? Appreciate this may not be the best place to ask but any input will be helpful Thumbs Up
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFAICT, loft and cavity insulation grants are independent. We had our cavity not[*] done independently of the loft.

Damp, are you sure that there isn't already cavity insulation in there, causing you problems by tracking damp across?

[*] There's insulation board in the walls. We had four? Five? surveyors say "No problem, we can do it [previous installer was an idiot who didn't know what he was on about, ours will be fine with it]". Then every single installer who turned up said "No chance, I'm not putting my name on the 25 year guarantee, surveyor was an idiot who didn't know what she was on about." Rolling Eyes
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Stobo91
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
AFAICT, loft and cavity insulation grants are independent. We had our cavity not[*] done independently of the loft.

Damp, are you sure that there isn't already cavity insulation in there, causing you problems by tracking damp across?

[*] There's insulation board in the walls. We had four? Five? surveyors say "No problem, we can do it [previous installer was an idiot who didn't know what he was on about, ours will be fine with it]". Then every single installer who turned up said "No chance, I'm not putting my name on the 25 year guarantee, surveyor was an idiot who didn't know what she was on about." Rolling Eyes


Ahh bit gutting.

A mate who works for a energy saving/solar panel company had a look and he said you would see evidence of the drill holes in the brick work if it had been previously done and there is no evidence of that so?
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angryjonny
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the damp in the kitchen in the same wall/corner as the upstairs damp? A couple of feet above the floor level I'd be worried about rising damp. How old is the house?

(I had polystyrene bead insulation in my last house and there were no obvious external signs of it having been done. I didn't know it was there until I had a vent knocked in)
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Stobo91
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

angryjonny wrote:
Is the damp in the kitchen in the same wall/corner as the upstairs damp? A couple of feet above the floor level I'd be worried about rising damp. How old is the house?

(I had polystyrene bead insulation in my last house and there were no obvious external signs of it having been done. I didn't know it was there until I had a vent knocked in)


Nope, totally seperate parts of the house.

Upstairs bedroom is on the side of the house and downstairs kitchen is on the back.

Think the house was built around the 1920-30's.


Ive been doing some reading of types of damp and i believe the patch in babies bedroom is due to the leaky guttering. And the damp in the kitchen is rising damp.

I "think" the ground outside the kitchen is slightly higher than the floor in the kitchen and therefore the damp is hitting the kitchen above the damp proof membrane and rising up the wall.

Having cooker problems so only noticed it when we pulled cooker out the other day...
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stobo91 wrote:

I "think" the ground outside the kitchen is slightly higher than the floor in the kitchen and therefore the damp is hitting the kitchen above the damp proof membrane and rising up the wall.

Can you lower the ground area immediately adjacent to your house walls? You don't have to drop the entire garden, you can simply dig a small trench that is at least 150mm below your DPC.
You will need to make sure that this trench slopes away from your house or has a drain installed to remove any water that may otherwise gather.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your house is that age it should have an unfilled cavity of about 50mm - unless somebody has 'drilled and filled' it in the meantime. You can tell if this has been done by looking for blobs of replacement pointing at regular intervals. The holes will be in the pointing not in the centre of any brickwork - if you see any in the centre there is a fair chance the house will have had a wall-tie job at some point. If the house has been totally repointed or rendered you will need to be Sherlock feckin' Holmes...

Ground level should always be no less than 150mm below your dpc. Any closer and chances are you will get damp moving up the outer skin which can transfer to the inner skin if there is rubble in the cavity - most likely cause... Also, if you can take a look under the floor as it is possible your joists will be rotting if the moisture has been around for a while. If this is the case 1st get rid of the ingress then get a builder to sort the joists. Make sure any raised ground level hasn't covered your airbricks also, as this may result in a buildup of condensation in the void and damp also.... All assuming your floor is suspended timber of course, which given the age I suspect it will be.

If you are going for thicker loft insulation you need to be looking at 300mm all over including the loft hatch. Be careful though as you may end up reducing airflow in the loft and get condensation as a result. Talk to your installer beforehand to let them know you are aware that this can happen, to put them on their toes...

Hope this helps!
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scoobydaz
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the grant is related to Green Deal then I would steer clear of it, the prices are MASSIVELY hiked by the suppliers as they know they can get away with it. Also the loan would be attached to the house which would make it very difficult to sell in the future.

The best bet is to sort it yourself.

Firstly get the guttering mended, if you can't do it yourself get in a local trade guy who is on checkatrade or comes recommended. Wait a few weeks to see if the problem has subsided or gone away if so problem fixed.

If not then further investigation is required, there may be other leaks.

Insulating your own loft is easy, get to wickes buy the stuff, put it in your car and have a fun weekend putting it in between your joists. Its easy to cut and lay with the correct equipment and really isn't that expensive.

Walls are a different matter and require having the stuff blown in, its something you can find locally and for not too much money.

If your strapped for cash then take out a bank loan or increase the mortgage but don't sign up for the green deal its a nightmare.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree - Green Deal is offered at much higher rates of interest than you can get if you go to a bank yourself.

Something else to bear in mind - from April 1st 2018 it may be against the law for anybody to sell an 'ordinary' house if it doesn't make an E or higher rating on an Energy Performance Certificate. Have a look at the EPC that will have been done for the house when the previous owner put it on the market. If it is an F or G make sure that whatever works you do will bring it up to standard, otherwise you may well find you have to spend more when you eventually come to sell it... The EPC Certificate will contain recommendations to enable you to improve it together with costings. Ignore the costings as they will be way-out, but look closely at the recommendations...
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Stobo91
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 05 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the leading energy suppliers are doing the work and then claiming the costs back from the government i think.

British gas seems to be the best one as the criteria is purely based on the house rather than the income of the owners/tenants.

A surveyor is coming out on the 5th of Feb to take the measurements etc but sounds like we should be getting both the walls and loft done FOC Thumbs Up

Thats if we get the damp sorted in the meantime... Rolling Eyes

The house has concrete floor throughout and the immediate ground outside the kitchen is concrete too. A little uneven mind you and doesnt look like its level.

Suppose its possible is could still be related to the guttering problem and the water is accumulating at the bottom?

Anyhow, got a firm coming to give a quote for guttering tonight so will see what the damage is!
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