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Valve clearances

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robertw95
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Joined: 22 Nov 2014
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Valve clearances Reply with quote

Just done checking my valve clearances and all 8 are either right on the limit (inlet range is 0.10mm to 0.20mm) one is sitting on 0.10 and one 0.09 so should I be replacing both for piece of mind?
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in a similar position to you, right on the limit and a bit over. Left it, but it's niggling my mind and I think the engine is louder now after a couple of months extra riding.

I = 0.10 -> 0.20
E = 0.20 -> 0.30

Mine were like this at the start of October
FIL= 0.11
FIR= 0.09

FEL= 0.19
FER= 0.20

RIL= 0.13
RIR= 0.11

REL= 0.19
RER= 0.19

8 weeks on and only about 600 miles I'm going to have a go at replacing the shims. Engine sounds louder, probably one or both CCT's causing the noise, but as I've got to remove the CCT's to do the shims anyway, figured it's worth doing.

Re-checking gaps tomorrow and then hopefully measuring the shims for replacement. Fingers crossed.
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robertw95
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im just going to replace all the shims as its tight bikes only done 16k miles I dont red line everywhere so was surprised at them all being out or on the limit
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would get them all so they are in about the middle of the range.

You've done the hard part already so you might as well adjust them all if needed.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

monkeybiker wrote:

You've done the hard part already so you might as well adjust them all if needed.


Surely neither of us have done the hard part though. The hard part is getting the ba$tard CCT's off that are inaccessible, and getting the shim buckets out/in without dropping shit into the cylinders and getting the cam's off / back on without fecking up the timing.

Fairly sure by the end of this week I'll have blown up my SV.

RobertW95, let me/us know how you get on Smile
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robertw95
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

monkeybiker wrote:
I would get them all so they are in about the middle of the range.

You've done the hard part already so you might as well adjust them all if needed.


So im better having them halfway through the range rather than higher up? This is all new to me only ever worked on strokers before
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robertw95
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I've read youll have a worse job of it than me due to the cct on curvy models needing a tool to re-tension them, only problem I have is whether Ill get the shims before I start work again on the 5th fingers crossed
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

robertw95 wrote:
monkeybiker wrote:
I would get them all so they are in about the middle of the range.

You've done the hard part already so you might as well adjust them all if needed.


So im better having them halfway through the range rather than higher up? This is all new to me only ever worked on strokers before


To be perfectly honest it just seems logical to me to be in the middle of the range. That's why I do it.
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robertw95
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

No I agree that does make sense thanks Very Happy
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 28 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If in doubt always opt for the middle of recommended spec.
But next time round those which have tightened up set them on the loose side of centre; and those that have loosened off set on the tight side of centre.
Hopefully next time you check the shims they'll have all moved closer to centre spec and you won't need to undertake any shim swapping at all.
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robertw95
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Joined: 22 Nov 2014
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 29 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks for clearing that up, tbh I was optimistic they wouldnt need adjusted had the bike since 5k on it and Ive never went too mental with it and they're all out of spec or thereabouts
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 31 Dec 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a special place in hell reserved for the SV's designer who decided to place the Cam Chain Tensioner behind the framework on both cylinders. Never has one person swore so much in such a short space of time.

Took 60 minutes to get the front one off, nearly rounded one bolt.
But that was a doddle compared to the rear, which even after removing the rearset and passenger foot rest, was still impossible to see. Had to do it by feel, fearing the hex wrench wasn't in properly and I was about to round the bolts. 90 minutes to get the rear off!!

Both CCT's seem to be working at least. But I have no idea how I'm going to get the rear back on!

Camshafts off tomorrow (hopefully) and 8 new Hotcam shims to be ordered.

How did you get on?
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robertw95
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 01 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heard they are a pain in the arse to do!
Haven't started yet because all my valves are out of spec throttle bodies will need synced again which I never had the tools for, back to work on the 5th so needing the bike and going change shims a week on friday
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