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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 07 Jan 2015    Post subject: Brakes Binding Reply with quote

Both the Front and Rear Brakes are binding on my CB500.
I'm used to servicing drum brakes so this is all new.

The front wheel free spins less than a quarter of a turn.
The pads only have say 2-3mm left by my estimation, but the fluid is at max in the reservoir, shouldn't that have lowered somewhat when the pads wore down?
(Old brake fluid from previous owner, more fluid ordered but hoping to fix this before then)

Noob Question, assuming the fluid has been topped up too much (At first I thought sticking pistons but the fluid levels made me wonder)
If I syringed some brake fluid out of the top of the reservoir, might that relieve some pressure to let the pads unstick?
(I have used about 800ml of brake cleaner in the past week)


Cheers
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SQL
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 07 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sliding caliper?
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 07 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

SQL wrote:
Sliding caliper?


Possibly, Brembo front and rear, each brake only has pistons on one side of the caliper. (if thats what dictates a "sliding" caliper?)

Vincent wrote:
Quite often the pistons in the caliper seize due to corrosion pushing the seals out of their grooves. You could have a close look to see if the seals are popping out and see how easy it is to push the pistons back in. It's quite easy to clean them up, just make sure you don't damage the pistons getting them out as they can be expensive to replace. remove the caliper and use the brake pressure to remove them. If you have more than one piston in each caliper, push one nearly all the way then block it so the other one comes out.


Gotcha, full strip is certainly the plan once I get the brake fluid.

Another dumb question, but I assume the pistons cannot be removed without draining the system first?
Could I bring them out far enough to clean them up and re-seat them?
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 07 Jan 2015    Post subject: Re: Brakes Binding Reply with quote

Commuter_Tim wrote:
If I syringed some brake fluid out of the top of the reservoir, might that relieve some pressure to let the pads unstick?

Nope. High fluid level in the reservoir will not cause your brake pads to stick.
Your calipers could probably do with a spring clean. This is not a daunting task and there's probably loads of ooh tube vids available to aid you.
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SQL
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

A beer says the sliding part is all gummed up, pull them apart, clean the pins up, rubber grease them caliper good as new
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pdg
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Re: Brakes Binding Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:

Nope. High fluid level in the reservoir will not cause your brake pads to stick.
Your calipers could probably do with a spring clean. This is not a daunting task and there's probably loads of ooh tube vids available to aid you.


A completely full reservoir could stop the pistons retracting - but it would have to be completely full - i.e. over the 'max' mark. It's not something that would suddenly start happening though.

Unless you toppd it up with water instead of brake fluid (runny innit, must be the same) and then you could have the effect that the water in the fluid would expand when it gets hot and slowly locks up the brakes.... A crack (say) in the reservoir cap could allow the hygroscopic fluid to draw moisture through and have the same result.

Also, if the wrong fluid was used it can cause the rubber (or other similar materials) to degrade and expand, pushing the fluid out of the way, 'filling up' the reservoir and pushing the pistons out.

As has been said though, it's much more like to be a load of crap stuck everywhere coupled with overenthusiastic topping up.
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, this is BCF, so now that you have given me an answer I don't like, I believe protocol dictates I get all pissy and rant until I get an answer I do like. Laughing

Really though, cheers for confirming what I thought might be the case, was pinning my hopes on being wrong initially but I suppose I best just ride the CG til the DOT4 arrives and I get a day off work to do it during daylight hours. Smile

Cheers fellas
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 00:30 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the fluid, looked to be around about the max line or above, will double check in the morning.
I neglected to check the actual level of the fluid on purchasing the bike not long ago, and had it in with a "mechanic" to safety check over immediately.
However that guy even left the locknuts spinning on both sides of the rear wheel, guess he cba?

There is every possibility some numpty has overfilled the reservoir when the pads were already worn.
So, would there be any harm done by removing a little fluid?
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Re: Brakes Binding Reply with quote

pdg wrote:
[

A completely full reservoir could stop the pistons retracting - but it would have to be completely full - i.e. over the 'max' mark. It's not something that would suddenly start happening though.


I'd always assumed that even if you overfill the reservoir the situation is self-remedying when the gasket/diaphragm rubber is put back in place and that the only way you could have it overfilled was to leave out that gasket.

OP - clean up the sliding pin arrangement before starting to tinker with the pistons. If you still have binding then (as has been mentioned) you'll need to pop out the pistons, gently ease out the rubber seals in the body and clean out all corrosion in the seal groove. Manky pistons can cause this but it is both tricky to clean a piston in place and once the piston gets that bad you'll find the groove won't be much better.

(The shit in the groove pushes the seal out against the piston and increases friction)
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 01:08 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Re: Brakes Binding Reply with quote

pdg wrote:
A completely full reservoir could stop the pistons retracting

Rolling Eyes
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pdg
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PostPosted: 01:57 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Re: Brakes Binding Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:
pdg wrote:
A completely full reservoir could stop the pistons retracting

Rolling Eyes


HEL performance brake line instructions (amongst other sources) wrote:
When you have successfully bled your brakes make sure both bleed nipples are done up tightly, all banjo bolts are done up tightly and top up the reservoir. Do not overfill the reservoir as this can cause hydraulic locking of the system preventing the pistons in the caliper from fully retracting - this causes binding of the brake.


..........................
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 02:35 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shit, you calling it a "sliding pin" has just possibly hit on the cause.
I was not aware that was the name, but both mine are fucking caked in rust.
I had assumed they were merely to stop the pads coming out, not helping with alignment, but now I think of it how could the pads move freely when the pin slides through both... Doh! Brick Wall

Definitely taking some wire wool to those pins tomorrow (Today!)

TY Thumbs Up
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 03:29 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Commuter_Tim wrote:


Definitely taking some wire wool to those pins tomorrow (Today!)

TY Thumbs Up


Get rid of as much as you can from inside the holes they sit in as well, a lot of the problem is that people don't regularly service them (once a year should be more than enough, I always do mine when I change the pads).
When clean use copper grease fairly liberally (don't forget to clean out the rubbers as well)
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Commuter_Tim wrote:
Shit, you calling it a "sliding pin" has just possibly hit on the cause.
I was not aware that was the name, but both mine are fucking caked in rust.
I had assumed they were merely to stop the pads coming out, not helping with alignment, but now I think of it how could the pads move freely when the pin slides through both... Doh! Brick Wall

Definitely taking some wire wool to those pins tomorrow (Today!)

TY Thumbs Up


Don't confuse 'Sliding Pin' with 'Retaining Pin' - they are 2 different things, but if either sets are caked in rust, there will be problems.

The Retaining Pin (or Pins) need to be a good fit at each end in the caliper, but not too tight or too loose where they pass through the holes in the pads.

The Sliding Pins need to be free enough to allow both parts of the caliper to move smoothly.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taught2BCautious wrote:
Commuter_Tim wrote:
Shit, you calling it a "sliding pin" has just possibly hit on the cause.
I was not aware that was the name, but both mine are fucking caked in rust.
I had assumed they were merely to stop the pads coming out, not helping with alignment, but now I think of it how could the pads move freely when the pin slides through both... Doh! Brick Wall

Definitely taking some wire wool to those pins tomorrow (Today!)

TY Thumbs Up


Don't confuse 'Sliding Pin' with 'Retaining Pin' - they are 2 different things, but if either sets are caked in rust, there will be problems.

The Retaining Pin (or Pins) need to be a good fit at each end in the caliper, but not too tight or too loose where they pass through the holes in the pads.

The Sliding Pins need to be free enough to allow both parts of the caliper to move smoothly.


Also a good idea to give any pad retaining pins a lube up with copper grease (I tend to do everything that contacts the pad, including the pad back. Careful application and common sense should mean that the pad faces don't get lagged up.)
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SQL
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:


Also a good idea to give any pad retaining pins a lube up with copper grease (I tend to do everything that contacts the pad, including the pad back. Careful application and common sense should mean that the pad faces don't get lagged up.)


I disagree the pad retaining pins should be clean as grease will attract dirt and possibly cause issues, put some copper grease in the thread on the retaining pin to stop it seizing but I tend to leave the pins dry themselves.

Sliding pins

The sliding pins I tend to clean with silicon lube in a spray (Safe for rubber) then I will grease with red rubber grease because its epic however copper grease seems to do a OK job too.

Pistons

To clean the pistons I will remove the pads on one side, place a bit of wood to act as a stop and pull the lever until the pistons are showing clean metal, then I will clean up the pistons with a toothbrush and brake fluid cleaning all the muck from the surface, then I grease the piston with red rubber grease seems to make them push in easier without having to resort to g clamp

Retaining pin

I put the in in a drill and spin it with wirewool and oil on the surface of it, then clean and copper grease the threads.

Pads

Copper grease the back, clean the face of the pad with a dry toothbrush to remove excess dust in the wear groove. ( Don't get these two mixed up if you do at least you won't have to worry about binding brakes)
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

SQL wrote:
mentalboy wrote:


Also a good idea to give any pad retaining pins a lube up with copper grease (I tend to do everything that contacts the pad, including the pad back. Careful application and common sense should mean that the pad faces don't get lagged up.)


I disagree the pad retaining pins should be clean as grease will attract dirt and possibly cause issues, put some copper grease in the thread on the retaining pin to stop it seizing but I tend to leave the pins dry themselves.



For new pins maybe but once the zinc coating has been breached and rust is present upon the pins then I prefer to keep that rust at bay and make do with cleaning pins every time I do my pads (6-12 months).
I actually use an industrial Nickel/Graphite grease where most use copper grease, the stuff holds even better than copper grease but is bloody extortionate to buy
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I tried removing the caliper and cleaning it all, the pads were so rusty they were screaming for help from BCF. Very Happy

Oddly after I pumped the pistons in and out a bit whilst cleaning over and over, the hydraulic fluid level has dropped to somewhere near the min level, (is it possible air was in the lower part, now in top of reservoir? Question )

Whilst the pistons do move somewhat freely in and out, annoyingly it did not fix the problem.
I managed to remove the caliper along with bracket easy enough, but my slider pins do not slide Sad
I could not figure out how to remove the dust boot (number 1 below) or slider pins (I was getting them confused with the pad retainer pin before)
I guess I will need to have another go at it saturday.

https://www.lingshondaparts.com/hpl/images/13MY5WEA/imge/F__0901.jpg

TL:DR wheel now spins about a third of a turn, is it damaging/dangerous to ride 3-4 miles each way daily in such condition? (temporarily)
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boot #1 (the long one not the grommet type one presumably) is usually a little tricky to remove. If you are careful you can feed the bulbous closed end into the hole it's located in using a small screwdriver but be careful not to puncture the rubber. Sometimes the same thing can be done with a pair of pliers but this is usually trickier. Many people are tempted to pull through the other way and this usually results in the rubber ripping.

You can clean the inside of the boot reasonably well with a jeweller's type screwdriver and won't have to remove it.


This can only be done once the caliper is in two parts, you don't actually have to undo the pins from their bodies unless the whole lot is jammed up and won't come apart - this usually happens when the pins have been bent. If you can get the two body parts separated then make an assessment of the state of the pins and replace if necessary. You're lucky that it's a Honda and these pins are removable and usually widely available (conversely I've only ever had to deal with bent Honda pins).
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you are meant to literally pull on the plate holding the slider pins to seperate from the main body then?
I felt a mm or 2 of movement.

Haynes simply says "pull the caliper off the caliper bracket, noting how it fits"
I figured I was doing it wrong.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 08 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Commuter_Tim wrote:
So you are meant to literally pull on the plate holding the slider pins to seperate from the main body then?
I felt a mm or 2 of movement.

Haynes simply says "pull the caliper off the caliper bracket, noting how it fits"
I figured I was doing it wrong.


Yup, with the disc out of the way the two pieces should separate. Try to push and pull the two pieces together and apart repeatly to get some movement going. It is probably a bent pin if it takes a superhuman effort to separate.
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Success! ...sort of, I stripped the caliper and cleaned as much as I could, still could not entirely free off the sliding pins, but it has enough travel for the wheel to do a full turn, good enough for now!

Cheers again for the help.
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