How to prevent electrical fails

[Scootaloo]

Hello All

I was wondering, what causes the electrical system to fail in the Honda CB-1?

Is there a way of decreasing the chance of being stuck somewhere late at night with no power?

I always make sure the battery is topped up and have fitted a moto batt. What other precautions can I take?
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(CBF125 - 09) (CBF125 - 11) (CB-1 - 89) (CBF500 - 06) (Push Bike) (CB-1 - 90) (XL125 - 01) (VF500 - 83) (GPZ500 - 94) (GPZ500 - 95) (GPZ500 - 87) (XV535 - 94) (XV535 - 94) (GPZ500 - 87)

[smegballs]

Strip down and clean electrical connector blocks. Reassemble with dielectric or silicon grease.

I've done that to all the GN's ignition circuits and it never missed a beat in sustained, absolutely torrential, rainfall in portugal. Whether it would have been okay without the treatment I don't know it's hard to say.

[talkToTheHat]

Carry small can of wd40.

If electrical fails are wet ignition coils or spark plugs, consider a fenda extenda or similar. My coils live just above the front cylinder head and I was forever spraying out the low voltage connectors with wd40 when it rained until I discovered these.

Ensure all crimp connectors are properly done with the correct dies in a ratchet crimper, way more secure than attempts at making connections with pliers.

Make sure your soldered joints are done properly, and properly insulated with heatshrink.

Don't use scotchlock connectors, they are a recipe for broken cables that will cause intermittent or hard to diagnose failures. Avoid pre-insulated bullet connectors. Use uninsualted connectors and silicone rubber sleeves, they are less prone to failure. Replace oem connectors like for like or fit premium waterproof connectors like this
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281285803026

Check your wiring loom for damage. Ensure that cable runs are protected with tape or sheathing, and are held securely with zip ties so that cables cannot become trapped in moving parts.
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Bandit. does. everything.

[Scootaloo]

[Taught2BCauti...]

Get yourself a decent multimeter and do regular checks across the battery terminals:

1. Before starting the bike, after it has been standing for more than an hour.
2. Ignition on, engine not running.
3. Engine warm and running at normal tick-over.
4. Engine running at 3-4000 rpm.
5. After a ride, everything switched off.
6. After a ride, everything switched off, about 1 hour later.
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[KnuckleShot]

I second the WD-40, my bike kept cutting our during the rain.
Sprayed WD-40 all over the wires and not had a problem since

[stinkwheel]

You could pre-emtively replace the reg/rec with a mosfet type.

Many would consider this to be going too far though.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[smegballs]

[Vincent]

Aye, the original CB-1 Reg/Rec was total pants, it would fail and the battery would burst, spraying acid all over the swingarm.. Apart from that, I'm not aware of any other common electrical problems. I've got loads of spares if you get stuck for anything.

Ah....forgot the points on the fuel pump They wear over time and need replacing.
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Space Is Deep

[P.addy]

[smegballs]

[P.addy]

I put it across the battery, if it reads under 13, charging system not happy, if its above 15, charging system not happy.

Tells you clear as day when something needs to be looked in to stator or reg/rec wise.

[Fisty]

[smegballs]

[Commuter_Tim]

[J.M.]

[Scootaloo]

Now that is cool!

I will do that, this is good: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-0-99V-3-Wire-LED-Digital-Display-Panel-Volt-Meter-Voltage-Voltmeter-Car-Motor-/171509797285?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&var=&hash=item27eec7d1a5

I will go through the connectors as I see them/happen by them in other maintenance. Right now, the bike functions correctly but I had to replace a weak battery as it was so low and would not hold a charge. As I said, the bikes lights are steady when above 4,000 Rpm and flicker slightly when below that... as far as I know this is normal.
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(CBF125 - 09) (CBF125 - 11) (CB-1 - 89) (CBF500 - 06) (Push Bike) (CB-1 - 90) (XL125 - 01) (VF500 - 83) (GPZ500 - 94) (GPZ500 - 95) (GPZ500 - 87) (XV535 - 94) (XV535 - 94) (GPZ500 - 87)

[Vincent]

Something I read the other day that I hadn't realised.......when using a hand held multimeter to check battery voltages, place the probes onto the battery post itself and not any of the connecters or bolt head. Apparently the readings can differ.

Anyone confirm that?

I bought one of those indicator light thingies off ebay to keep an eye on voltages.......think it was about a £iver.
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Space Is Deep

[stinkwheel]

I mounted mine on the fuse box cover and wired it into the switched relay I fitted for my heated grips (which is also, handily, under the fusebox cover). I epoxied it in and covered the circuitry on the back with epoxt too so it's weatherproof.

Yellow LEDs FTW.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/drumbrake/CIMG1686_zps2e9b0a95.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.