Car help: judder and stall when cold

[grant965]

Hi all,
Got an issue with my Peugeot 206 1.4 8v.
When I first get in the car I have to reverse it onto my drive to turn it around, car starts fines.
Most of the time it reverses fine but then judders and stalls when you press the clutch.
Occasionally it judders when I reverses.
If it stalls, I start it up and its perfectly fine.
Similarly, I can drive it for 5 minutes in a morning and at 10pm that night (when the car should be cool) it works perfectly fine.
I also sometimes get a judder/misfire when driving but if I change down a gear and accelerate it is fine.

Note:
Head gasket changed 5k ago, oil and water still clean so don't think that has gone again.
Exhaust is blowing.
When it first did it a few months ago a mate hooked it up to a code reader and it was clear.

Just little things that do not bother me in the slightest but I am looking to sell it shortly so need it sorting.

Thanks in advance,
Grant
____________________
Ex bikes: 05 Suzuki En 125, '98 Yamaha Thundercat, '08 Honda cbr125, '05 Kawasaki z750, '03 Triumph Daytona 600, '91 Kawasaki ex250, '03 Hyosung Comet 125
Current Bike: '02 Suzuki TL1000R

[-]

Sounds MAF related.
____________________
TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG.

[Mark65]

Clutch plate sticking, not disengaging flywheel?.
____________________
07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650

[-]

[grant965]

Cheers for the help guys, had a good look over the car and noticed the following:
Exhaust had a bit of it missing where it joiners the headers; cost me £11 and half hour to change.
Engine breather that goes to throttle body was gunked up, guess I forgot to check it when I changed the headgasket. Bit of carb cleaner and a rag and all good now, also cleaned and greased the two sensors on the throttle body, assuming TPS and MAF ?
Hasn't stalled since and haven't had the misfire/bog down either, however that never happened that often so only time will tell if it is sorted.

Onto another issue, the MPG is awful.
£10 to trafford centre and back from Preston, worked out at 32mpg from a 1.4 8v, combined MPG from a site is 45mpg, I know you dont usually get anywhere near that but how can I be 25% off it.

Not too fussed at sorting this as I will be getting a new one in the next month or two but would be interested to see whats causing it.

Tyres are checked regularly.
As far as I can tell the brakes aren't sticking slightly.
95% motorway for the journey above at a speed of around 60mph.
Not particularly heavy footed.
Only me and my missus in the car.

Thanks,
Grant
____________________
Ex bikes: 05 Suzuki En 125, '98 Yamaha Thundercat, '08 Honda cbr125, '05 Kawasaki z750, '03 Triumph Daytona 600, '91 Kawasaki ex250, '03 Hyosung Comet 125
Current Bike: '02 Suzuki TL1000R

[-]

You should not grease the actual MAF sensor itself, they are like a fine wire element and should be kept clean. The MAF adjusts the fuel/air mixture depending on intake temperature and pressure. A failing MAF will make a car run poorly when cold and will effect MPG.

I recently did the MAF on my 740i and even the genuine Bosch one was £80 delivered and a 2 minute job to replace. My issues were that the car was fine when warm, but would stall when coming to a halt or coasting (it's an auto) when cold in the morning. When cold, the tick over was only around 550rpm, when it should be 1000rpm or so when cold on a V8. It's the MAF which sets the fuelling and revs when cold instead of the old traditional choke method.
____________________
TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG.