Cleaning Carbs on a CBR 600 Jellymould

[Tritey]

A friend has just acquired a CBR 600 Jellymould '90 plate. It's been sat for a while (2 years), fresh fuel in tank and a new battery and it started up and ran albeit a little lumpy. Carbs need doing.

Neither of us are much cop on the spanners, is there anything he can put in the tank that will do the job?

Seafoam seems to have a good rating for success, has anyone used this product, eBay listings for £14 delivered. Is redx any good?

Any advice welcomed, my mate is a bit brassic and can't stretch to the expense of getting someone to remove carbs and clean them correctly. Is there any cheap 'wonder' product that would do?

[........................]

Carb cleaner is only about £5 per can. Get the spanners out and do a proper job. Set aside a weekend and follow a guide from the net or get a Haynes manual. You'll learn a lot and with two of you should be pretty painless. They might need balancing as well.

[Bikeless]

If your not competent find someone who is and pay them to strip and clean them.

[finchy95]

I have a several mates that absolutely swear by Redex but they're only riding 125cc's I'm assuming it would also work in a 600 but I'm not sure. Get a small bottle (like a fiver in halfords) but for gods sake work the ratio out right a guy I work with blew up a KMX by putting a whole bottle in the tank... And if it doesn't work try something else, or wait for one of the more mechanically minded guys to rock up and ask them to explain stripping a carb.
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2005 suzuki van van - Sold. -> 2015 honda cbr 125 r - current bike.
Now's not the time for fear. That comes later.

[........................]

[finchy95]

[haroman666]

Carbs can seem daunting but in reality aren't too bad (unless you're going for the full pull apart and retune)

Cleaning will be a piece of piss.

You could probably get away with getting the carbs off, cleaning out the float bowls and spraying carb cleaner up the main jets and see if it makes a difference.

Here's a video I made of me pulling apart my Bandit 400 carbs, may be of help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcE3h4Mats8
I do apologise for any shit jokes and monotone voice!
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The mistresses: 2000 Honda CBR600f, 2000 Honda VTR1000

[Nemo]

If you don't want to do it, take them out yourself and find someone with an ultra sonic cleaner?

Maybe cheaper than getting a garage to take them out, strip, clean and put back in
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Previously owned: Kawasaki KH125, Suzuki GP125, Suzuki GX 125, Honda CB125 TDC '83, Honda ntv 600, Kawasaki ER5, Kawasaki ZZR600, Aprilia RSV 1000 Mille
Now own: Ducati 848 evo

[andym]

They are fairly simple to do, (don't know if there's much of a difference between the 92 model), most awkward part is getting them off in the first place.

A complete strip clean and rebuild should take an hour (maybe 2 if you are learning on the way). When you are refitting them you will need a phillips screwdriver that will reach the side of the bike to the first carb (I got one for £3 from a tool store)

Done mine last weekend:
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/andy36586/DSC_0390_zpsbdomsynz.jpg

Remember to spray in all of the holes at the bottom of the carbs (as one of them was blocked in mine and I'd already cleaned the jets):
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/andy36586/DSC_0392_zpsppxjlram.jpg
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/andy36586/DSC_0393_zps9180csmm.jpg
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/andy36586/DSC_0391_zpsazjkvblq.jpg
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/andy36586/DSC_0394_zpsi1ggrsdn.jpg

[kramdra]

Nope, best to strip and clean the insides. Toolstation carb cleaner is only 2 quid a can, as is brake cleaner (useful but wont work on carbs). Leave the linkages and everything external alone, doesnt matter that much. Do not remove the plastic fuel T peices, I'm told they are fragile and expensive. Make sure carb intake rubbers dont leak.

Diaphragms on the top, get them out, inspect, and keep well away from carb cleaner. They are expensive bastards and it eats rubber

Buy a couple of aluminium pill bottles from ebay. They have quite a good seal. This means you can put your jets in, spray a shit ton of carb cleaner, and it wont evaporate, allowing them to soak. 24 hours is quite effective. Copper wire is soft, wont damage brass jets. Its quite good for removing the stubbon bits that carb cleaner has softened.

Then the choke and idle systems need a good spray. Use a foot pump to check they are not blocked. Make a note of turns on pilot screws, compare with manual.

Old float bowl gaskets probably need replacing. NBR rubber cord and superglue worked for me, but most dont like that idea. Carb kits are expensive.

Before reassembly, rub the metal part of float needles with aluminium foil to prevent them from sticking. It works very well.

JIS screwdriver is a good idea, or replace with allen head.

[Paddy Blake]

If you strip the carbs make sure you keep the parts for each carb separate.
It is likely the springs or jets in the middle two carbs are different to the outer ones.

Just to be on the safe side.

[Tritey]

Thanks all. The vid was great, most interesting Haroman666, thanks all and great pics there AndyM.

[cb1rocket]

When i clean carbs, some jets are so blocked i cook them with a blow torch. Burns the crap right off
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Honda H100S2 Rebuild - https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=253852