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| CVSensei |
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 CVSensei Scooby Slapper

Joined: 16 Oct 2014 Karma :     
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 Posted: 07:02 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: Running in a new engine |
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Morning all,
Picking up my brand new MT-07 soon and trying to pick up some tips on running it in. This is my first time and I've heard so many different methods already but thought you guys might be able to share some insight.
It will be restricted down to be A2 compliant, will the fact that the engine is inhibited affect the running-in method? Will it have any problems once the engine is de-restricted?
Thanks in advance  ____________________ 2014 Yamaha MT-07 ABS Deep Armour
'If all else fails, read the instructions.' - Grandpa
'Two possibilities exist: either we are alone in the Universe or we are not. Both are equally terrifying.' - Arthur C. Clarke |
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| Polarbear |
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 Polarbear Super Spammer

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| CVSensei |
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 CVSensei Scooby Slapper

Joined: 16 Oct 2014 Karma :     
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| MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :     
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| CVSensei |
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 CVSensei Scooby Slapper

Joined: 16 Oct 2014 Karma :     
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| Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

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| MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:05 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| MarJay wrote: | Don't listen to any rubbish on the internet related to thrashing from cold. |
Can you point at any?
If you're referring to Mototune, you should probably read it first, because that's exactly the opposite of what it says. Yes, in red. Several times.
Should I go bonkers and buy a new vehicle, I'm going to try that run in, as described, for the reasons described.
Whatever you do, I would suggest doing an early oil change to get any initial swarf out. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Polarbear |
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 Polarbear Super Spammer

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| MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

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| Taught2BCauti... |
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 Taught2BCauti... World Chat Champion

Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 12:16 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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For a brand-new engine, my preference would be:
change the oil and filter at 300, 600, 1000 and 1500 miles,
using good quality oil and filters,
allow the engine to warm-up before riding off,
no harsh acceleration,
no heavy loading,
follow the service guide with regard to checking valve clearances, torque settings for cylinder head bolts, checking brakes, and changing anti-freeze. ____________________ Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu |
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| CVSensei |
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 CVSensei Scooby Slapper

Joined: 16 Oct 2014 Karma :     
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 Posted: 12:26 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Great stuff, all kind of common sense really then ay! Cheers all  ____________________ 2014 Yamaha MT-07 ABS Deep Armour
'If all else fails, read the instructions.' - Grandpa
'Two possibilities exist: either we are alone in the Universe or we are not. Both are equally terrifying.' - Arthur C. Clarke |
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| Carvel |
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 Carvel World Chat Champion

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :  
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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

Joined: 17 Nov 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 13:20 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| Rogerborg wrote: | | MarJay wrote: | Don't listen to any rubbish on the internet related to thrashing from cold. |
Can you point at any?
If you're referring to Mototune, you should probably read it first, because that's exactly the opposite of what it says. Yes, in red. Several times.
Should I go bonkers and buy a new vehicle, I'm going to try that run in, as described, for the reasons described.
Whatever you do, I would suggest doing an early oil change to get any initial swarf out. |
I used this method on my MSX/Grom, rode up to the redline about 3 miles from the dealer, and continued to do so until 200 miles, with oil changes at 75 and 200 miles.
Used Asda cheapest 10w40 at the 75 and 200 mile oil changes, then on a synthetic 5w30 from there. No issues yet, after 3000 miles. ____________________ Fisty: after polishing the tank with the glistenng beads of sweat from my full hot scrotum, I filled the headrace bearings with 10cc of my manmilk |
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| chickenstrip |
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 chickenstrip Super Spammer

Joined: 06 Dec 2013 Karma :    
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 Posted: 13:29 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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I'm still not entirely convinced that you need deviate too far from the manufacturer's recommendations on running-in. I've had a brand new FZ750 that got caned from the word go (but not constantly) and it was fine. I had a brand new GSXR750 that I pretty much followed the manufacturer's guidelines on and had no problems. Is it really that critical for a non-competition bike? ____________________ Chickenystripgeezer's Biking Life (Latest update 19/10/18) Belgium, France, Italy, Austria tour 2016 Picos de Europa, Pyrenees and French Alps tour 2017 Scotland Trip 1, now with BONUS FEATURE edit, 5/10/19, on page 2 Scotland Trip 2 Luxembourg, Black Forest, Switzerland, Vosges Trip 2017
THERE'S MILLIONS OF CHICKENSTRIPS OUT THERE! |
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 14:24 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| chickenstrip wrote: | Is it really that critical for a non-competition bike? |
No, but given that you can do a Mototune run-in in about an hour, why wouldn't you go out and enjoy yourself on it?
I think we'd all agree to not let the engine lug, don't run in one gear or at constant throttle or revs, right? Which necessarily means going up and down the throttle.
Mototune just recommends warming up then taking the opportunity to use all the throttle and revs during the first 20 miles, on and off, and then changing the oil after that 20 mile run.
That's it. Is that so controversial?
I'm very interested to hear concrete, specific reasons on why I shouldn't do that.
One valid reason is that a bike with a spychip ("Event Data Recorder") might log it and piss on any warranty claim, related or otherwise.
Is there any mechanical reason why not?
If it's that something might bend / break / assplode, then first, what, and why? And B, I want that to happen at 20 miles rather than 2000.
Even if you don't want a racebike, do you want a bike with well sealed piston rings, that's not blowing combustion gasses into the crankcase? I'd like that.
I'm not recommending that anyone else do it. What I'm saying is that I would do it, and if I ever get a new bike, I will do it, unless I'm persuaded otherwise with something other than handwaving and woo.
Such doom and gloom, it's like you're honorary Scootchmen.  ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
Last edited by Rogerborg on 15:45 - 25 Feb 2015; edited 2 times in total |
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| Acemastr |
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 Acemastr World Chat Champion
Joined: 01 Oct 2008 Karma :  
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| blueglue |
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 blueglue Trackday Trickster

Joined: 10 Jun 2014 Karma :  
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| blueglue |
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 blueglue Trackday Trickster

Joined: 10 Jun 2014 Karma :  
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 Posted: 15:10 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| stevo as b4 |
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 stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
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| Acemastr |
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 Acemastr World Chat Champion
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| reed |
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 reed Nearly there...

Joined: 28 Oct 2012 Karma :  
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| notbike |
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 notbike World Chat Champion

Joined: 02 Apr 2014 Karma :     
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 Posted: 16:52 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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I bought my ninja 300 brand new and I ran it in as per instructions. Till I had the first service I'd short shift at 6k to keep revs between 4-6k.
Not difficult to do when you ride in London traffic though every now and then I'd rev it past 8k but not often.
Then I had to keep it at around 7-8k on the motorway to get it's first service anyway.
No problems with it.
After first service, did 100mph on the way home which demanded a lot more revs than usual. Breaking my 100mph virginity feltgoodman.  |
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| chickenstrip |
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 chickenstrip Super Spammer

Joined: 06 Dec 2013 Karma :    
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 Posted: 18:01 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| Rogerborg wrote: | Even if you don't want a racebike, do you want a bike with well sealed piston rings, that's not blowing combustion gasses into the crankcase? I'd like that.
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But do you have evidence that a normally (by the book) run-in engine would be like this? I've done it both ways; no difference as far as I could tell. I think I'd just use it normally, no labouring, proper warm ups. If I then got onto a nice road where I got a bit enthusiastic with the throttle, I wouldn't be worrying about it. I think we give it too much thought sometimes. ____________________ Chickenystripgeezer's Biking Life (Latest update 19/10/18) Belgium, France, Italy, Austria tour 2016 Picos de Europa, Pyrenees and French Alps tour 2017 Scotland Trip 1, now with BONUS FEATURE edit, 5/10/19, on page 2 Scotland Trip 2 Luxembourg, Black Forest, Switzerland, Vosges Trip 2017
THERE'S MILLIONS OF CHICKENSTRIPS OUT THERE! |
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 18:15 - 25 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| stevo as b4 wrote: | Oh and those saying do hard and fast break-in's |
I'm not sure anyone's actually advocated that anyone else do it.
Alan's said he's done it, and I'm asking why I shouldn't do it.
| stevo as b4 wrote: | well how are you going to do that on powerful bikes like say the S1000RR on the roads, and whilst staying within the legal speed limits? it cannot be done? |
Why are you buying an S1000RR if you intend to stay within the legal speed limits?
Mototune recommends WOTting it (on and off) where possible for the first 20 miles. If the advice is correct, then once is better than nonce, right? ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 10 years, 343 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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