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CVSensei
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PostPosted: 07:02 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Running in a new engine Reply with quote

Morning all,

Picking up my brand new MT-07 soon and trying to pick up some tips on running it in. This is my first time and I've heard so many different methods already but thought you guys might be able to share some insight.

It will be restricted down to be A2 compliant, will the fact that the engine is inhibited affect the running-in method? Will it have any problems once the engine is de-restricted?

Thanks in advance Wink
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 07:23 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

On all my new bikes I have run in as per manufacturers instructions and never had any issues.

I don't see the restriction having any effect on the running in.
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CVSensei
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PostPosted: 07:42 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
On all my new bikes I have run in as per manufacturers instructions and never had any issues.

I don't see the restriction having any effect on the running in.


Great! I don't know how a restriction actually works in an engine but I imagined it might mean that it only gets to run to a certain point.. Hence there possibly being problems with the engine suddenly running at a new rate compared to before.

But the rational part of me knows that can't really be true as so many people buy restricted bikes off the bat and go on to de-restrict.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 07:54 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't listen to any rubbish on the internet related to thrashing from cold. The rev limit is a guide, if you occasionally go over it you'll be OK. The trick is not to labour the engine or hold a set RPM for a long period of time. Do not ride around in sixth gear at walking pace!

Keep the engine spinning, and rev it to the redline every now and again. Which is basically what the manufacturer will tell you to do.
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CVSensei
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PostPosted: 08:00 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks MarJay that was exactly what I was after.. Although you say don't listen to the advice about gunning it cold?? That's one thing that made a lot of sense to me, is that BS?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 08:31 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

CVSensei wrote:
Thanks MarJay that was exactly what I was after.. Although you say don't listen to the advice about gunning it cold?? That's one thing that made a lot of sense to me, is that BS?


Don't thrash any engine from stone cold new or old.

Use common sense during your running-in period. Don't baby it about watching the rev counter and keeping below a 'set limit', ride it normally with varying loads and revs but avoid approaching the limits of performance until parts have settled in.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

CVSensei wrote:
Thanks MarJay that was exactly what I was after.. Although you say don't listen to the advice about gunning it cold?? That's one thing that made a lot of sense to me, is that BS?


No I meant that some sites (one that I've seen, which keeps being cited again and again and again) advocate no running in period and just ride it like you stole it from day one. This is nonsense. Be gentle with the bike, warm it up each time, don't labour it and don't thrash the nuts off of it. The occasional foray up to the redline is fine and as long as you don't sit at 6000rpm for the first 500 miles you should be fine.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Don't listen to any rubbish on the internet related to thrashing from cold.

Can you point at any?

If you're referring to Mototune, you should probably read it first, because that's exactly the opposite of what it says. Yes, in red. Several times.

Should I go bonkers and buy a new vehicle, I'm going to try that run in, as described, for the reasons described.

Whatever you do, I would suggest doing an early oil change to get any initial swarf out.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If we are talking modern motorbikes from the point of view of better machining, as in bikes from say the last 10 years, I have had 4 brand new. A Hayabusa, Street triple R, Tiger Explorer and a Trophy SE.

All have been run in pretty well as per manufacturers instructions. Non have burnt oil. The busa is the only I had dynoed at 153bhp so that's pretty standard for a mk1 busa as far as I know.

If what Mr Mototune says is true, why do the manufacturers, who have spent millions on R&D for their product, still come im with the running in schedules?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Should I go bonkers and buy a new vehicle, I'm going to try that run in, as described, for the reasons described.

Whatever you do, I would suggest doing an early oil change to get any initial swarf out.


Well the mototune website is the ONLY place I've ever heard of thrashing from new. It's pretty much bollocks unless you're running in a race bike as far as I can tell. Racebikes tend to have blueprinted engines anyway.

I meant to say from new rather than from cold in my previous post, but either applies. Don't thrash it from new, or thrash it from cold.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a brand-new engine, my preference would be:
change the oil and filter at 300, 600, 1000 and 1500 miles,
using good quality oil and filters,
allow the engine to warm-up before riding off,
no harsh acceleration,
no heavy loading,
follow the service guide with regard to checking valve clearances, torque settings for cylinder head bolts, checking brakes, and changing anti-freeze.
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CVSensei
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great stuff, all kind of common sense really then ay! Cheers all Smile
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Carvel
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taught2BCautious wrote:
change the oil and filter at 300, 600, 1000 and 1500 miles

Why?
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
MarJay wrote:
Don't listen to any rubbish on the internet related to thrashing from cold.

Can you point at any?

If you're referring to Mototune, you should probably read it first, because that's exactly the opposite of what it says. Yes, in red. Several times.

Should I go bonkers and buy a new vehicle, I'm going to try that run in, as described, for the reasons described.

Whatever you do, I would suggest doing an early oil change to get any initial swarf out.


I used this method on my MSX/Grom, rode up to the redline about 3 miles from the dealer, and continued to do so until 200 miles, with oil changes at 75 and 200 miles.

Used Asda cheapest 10w40 at the 75 and 200 mile oil changes, then on a synthetic 5w30 from there. No issues yet, after 3000 miles.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still not entirely convinced that you need deviate too far from the manufacturer's recommendations on running-in. I've had a brand new FZ750 that got caned from the word go (but not constantly) and it was fine. I had a brand new GSXR750 that I pretty much followed the manufacturer's guidelines on and had no problems. Is it really that critical for a non-competition bike?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:
Is it really that critical for a non-competition bike?

No, but given that you can do a Mototune run-in in about an hour, why wouldn't you go out and enjoy yourself on it?

I think we'd all agree to not let the engine lug, don't run in one gear or at constant throttle or revs, right? Which necessarily means going up and down the throttle.

Mototune just recommends warming up then taking the opportunity to use all the throttle and revs during the first 20 miles, on and off, and then changing the oil after that 20 mile run.

That's it. Is that so controversial?

I'm very interested to hear concrete, specific reasons on why I shouldn't do that.

One valid reason is that a bike with a spychip ("Event Data Recorder") might log it and piss on any warranty claim, related or otherwise.

Is there any mechanical reason why not?

If it's that something might bend / break / assplode, then first, what, and why? And B, I want that to happen at 20 miles rather than 2000.

Even if you don't want a racebike, do you want a bike with well sealed piston rings, that's not blowing combustion gasses into the crankcase? I'd like that.

I'm not recommending that anyone else do it. What I'm saying is that I would do it, and if I ever get a new bike, I will do it, unless I'm persuaded otherwise with something other than handwaving and woo.

Such doom and gloom, it's like you're honorary Scootchmen. Razz
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Last edited by Rogerborg on 15:45 - 25 Feb 2015; edited 2 times in total
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bought my R6 with 0 miles, within 20 I'd hit 14k RPM and never kept it at the same revs. Use the bike, some say a hard break in is good and I went with that, had the oil changed at 350 miles and all is dandy so far!
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blueglue
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive got an MT-07 and just ran it normal apart from no red lines.

Got it serviced at 1000 miles.

You may want to look up about these engines stalling a fair bit. Mine did it between 1000 and 1500 miles. weird but there you go.

It has about 3500k on it now and never stalls so just put it down part of the breaking in procedure....ish.


Last edited by blueglue on 15:12 - 25 Feb 2015; edited 1 time in total
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blueglue
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.motorcycle-talk.net/forum/mt-07-fz-07-technical-forum/160-engine-cuts-clutch-lever-pulled.html
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd never rag any engine hard until the oil not coolant has come up to temperature. Will probably take 6miles+ of gentle riding to get 80-90deg oil temps?

I don't worry too much about set running in procedures though. You can often feel an engine as it starts to loosen up after a while, wether that's 100 or 600miles etc.

I think different engines like different ways of being broken in. Remember the 2000mile running in interval for the ZX12R?

Small bikes and two strokes are often run in very quickly in terms of the mileage taken, as a hi-po two stroke can't afford a 1000mile+ running in period if the top end only has a 5000-6000mile service life before overhaul, as your using up too much engine life.

Some engine's will always burn oil even up to a litre or more per 1000miles, no matter how well they are run in. They just like oil, and so quoting oil consumption as an indication of how effective the running in process was is often pretty meaningless.

Once a motor is run in you can use it how you like, and I also don't worry about labouring a warmed up engine, such as my van engine etc.

Oh and those saying do hard and fast break-in's, well how are you going to do that on powerful bikes like say the S1000RR on the roads, and whilst staying within the legal speed limits? it cannot be done?
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have 3 options for break in

1: Do as the manufacturer says, slow and gentle.
2: Do as the internet says, hard and fast then change oil early on.
3: Ride it how you normally ride it, change the oil at 600miles.

I did a combination of 2 and 3, also helped by the fact the oil warms up much quicker here.
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reed
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good friend of mine bought a brand new MT-07 a couple months after they were first released, i gave him a lift to get it. On the way home he hit the redline through the gears within 2 roads of the bike garage, and gave a good go at a few wheelies. Although he doesn't really care about bike maintenance and traded it in after just over 2 weeks for a GSXR.
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notbike
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my ninja 300 brand new and I ran it in as per instructions. Till I had the first service I'd short shift at 6k to keep revs between 4-6k.

Not difficult to do when you ride in London traffic though Laughing every now and then I'd rev it past 8k but not often.

Then I had to keep it at around 7-8k on the motorway to get it's first service anyway.

No problems with it.

After first service, did 100mph on the way home which demanded a lot more revs than usual. Breaking my 100mph virginity feltgoodman. Very Happy
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 18:01 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Even if you don't want a racebike, do you want a bike with well sealed piston rings, that's not blowing combustion gasses into the crankcase? I'd like that.



But do you have evidence that a normally (by the book) run-in engine would be like this? I've done it both ways; no difference as far as I could tell. I think I'd just use it normally, no labouring, proper warm ups. If I then got onto a nice road where I got a bit enthusiastic with the throttle, I wouldn't be worrying about it. I think we give it too much thought sometimes.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 25 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Oh and those saying do hard and fast break-in's

I'm not sure anyone's actually advocated that anyone else do it. Thinking

Alan's said he's done it, and I'm asking why I shouldn't do it.


stevo as b4 wrote:
well how are you going to do that on powerful bikes like say the S1000RR on the roads, and whilst staying within the legal speed limits? it cannot be done?

Why are you buying an S1000RR if you intend to stay within the legal speed limits? Laughing

Mototune recommends WOTting it (on and off) where possible for the first 20 miles. If the advice is correct, then once is better than nonce, right?
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