cb125tdc died on my way home

[hoolio]

coming home tonight and my 85 cb125 tdc died,it acted as if it had run out of petrol,have fuel which is reaching the cylinders but have no spark from either plug so walked it back to work and left it,any guidence to tracing the fault would be much appreciated.

[Fisty]

https://www.madcow.club/images/memes/2/kid-with-war-helmet.jpg

sperg sperg sperg sperg
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Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[temeluchus]

Yet another 'How To' is a bit specific to the Honda CB125 'Twin', that probably applies to most of the other 'Benley' series engined bikes as well. But also applies to a number of other 'small' Hondas using the same clutch arrangement. So, the CB100N & CB125S & RS singles, and the CG125, and all its derivatives, the XR125, City Fly, and all the Chinese 'clones'.

Clutches on small geared bikes tend to work hard for a living. Without much power to play with, gearboxes have to be worked hard, which means lots of clutch work. worse, when the small bike is a Learner Legal, and the owners are getting to grips with clutch control! This tends to wear the clutch plates rather thin, with lots of clutch slipping practice finding the biting point , and plenty of time spent holding the bike on the clutch, the springs compressed, hunting for neutral!

When they wear, they get difficult to adjust and you can find that it can 'drag' with the clutch lever fully in, but when you are riding, it can actually slip. On 'derelict' bikes that have stood, also common for the clutch to seize, the plates corroding together or silting up. But in either instance, its an often neglected assembly, that can frequently benefit from this simple, and relatively cheap bit of overhauling.

There is only one significant 'hassle' to the job, and that is that the clutch assembly is held on with a recessed castellated nut, which needs a special socket or spanner to undo and do back up. The Haynes manual provides instructions on how to make your own, so we did, from an old 3/4 socket, cracked ruing a Land Rover cylinder head removal, using an angle grinder!

Anyway, THESE are the bits inside the drum, that we are going to replace, the clutch friction plates, and the clutch springs. 

Chinese, e-bay specials, this is less than £20 worth of parts.

 

To fit them, we need to drain the oil, and remove the primary drive gasket. So you need to add a couple of litres of oil, perhaps £6's worth, and a gasket, we made out of an old cerial packet, in time honoured fasion!  (see The Cornflake Packet Gasket Trick!)

Since the oil had to be drained and the primary drive cover removed, we took the oportunity to also clean the oil strainer, as described in HOW To: (Honda CB/CD/CM 125/200 'Benley' Series Engine) Oil Strainer Clean, and for the most part much of the job is the same.

Step 1 (as Oil & strainer)

Locate and identify the Sump Drain Plug. It is on the right hand side of the engine. If you find the Generator Rotor nut cover, the round slotted one in the middle, (missing in this photo!) and go directly down, it is recessed just ahead of an beneath the Engine Number boss, in front of the gear shift assembly.



Start and warm the engine, if possible. Warm oil is more runny than cold oil, so if you get the engine warm before changing the oil, more of it will come out, more easily. Once warm, be careful of hot exhausts and 'stuff', and turn the engine off before going any further! Often worth removing the battery lead, so you cant accidentally turn the engine over with no oil in it.

But, now you can put plastic washing up bowl, or you preferred container under the sump plug. Undo the sump plug, trying not to drop it in the container, and as it comes out, in a gush, get oil everywhere but in the container!



Sometimes helps if you can tilt the bike a little when its coming towards the end of draining. If you have a side stand you can prop it on that. If not, just tilt the bike, it wont take long to drain, there's not that much oil in there.



When the oil has cooled down.... you can undertake the oil change ritual of fishing for the sump plug in the ice cream tub!



REPLACE SUMP PLUG. it saves it getting lost and answering stupid questions later.... like "Why's it taking so much oil to fill it up?" and "Oh!? I seem to have an oil leak, where's that coming from?" Before you put two and two together, and remember, you forgot to put the plug back in!

And dispose of old engine oil in an environmentally friendly manner. Here its being tipped into an empty oil can, where it will be disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner, mixed with a little old stale petrol or something, and probably used to environmentally dispose of ants nests in the garden. You may prefer to simply take it to the local tip, and put it in one of their big reclamation tanks!



 

Step 2 (as Oil & strainer)



On the other side of the engine, we have one casing, covering the oil pump and primary drive. You will need to disconnect the Tachometer Drive, and the clutch cable. Then you can undo the bolts around the flange of the casing to remove it.



Step 3 - 'Doing' The Clutch



Inside the primary drive case is the clutch release shaft. On this shaft is the release arm, which pushes the release pin, poking out of the middle of the clutch. DO NOT try and press this pin in with your hands, or worse hit it with a hammer! I had a comment on a forum from a lad the other day with clutch troubles and that was what he had done, commenting that it didn't seem to move! No it wont! Its pressing against four big springs, and you wont easily move it, but hitting it with a hammer can easily bend it!

Sensibly, inspect the release arm and shaft as indicated here for any signs of damage or wear, and make sure that the lever is secure on the shaft.



Then remove the release pin.



Now the four spring cage retaining bolts can be slackened off with a 10mm spanner or socket. It's important to undo them evenly, each half a turn or so, going round opposites until they are undone. There will possibly still be some pressure on the springs when the screws are completely undone, so be careful they don't 'ping' on you. It may be necessary to hold the clutch drum to stop it turning with teh spanner. Easiest way to do this is to put the bike into a high gear and hold the rear brake pedal down.



with the bolts removed, the entire cage can carefully be lifted away from the springs. The centre of the cage contains a bearing and the release pin sleeve.



The springs can now be removed. Note how much shorter the 'old' spring on the left is compared to the 'new' spring on the right. This is how much the spring has 'relaxed' through being under constant tension. a spring this relaxed is unlikely to provide the clamping force to hold the friction plates tightly together to transmit drive, especially if the plates are old worn and thin as well.

Step 4 - 'Doing' The Clutch

This is NOT how the Haynes manual suggests the clutch pack be removed. It suggests that you remove the release pin sleeve and bearing, then use the special castellated spanner to undo the clutch shaft nut, and withdraw the entire clutch basket as a single assembly. However, we didn't have a castellated nut spanner, and we needed to get AT the nut to work out how to make one!



Here it is between the four springs. Curiouse little blighter ent it? this is what the Haynes Manual suggests:



"This tool is available as Honda Service tool, 07716-0020100. If this is not available, fabricate a suitable tool from a length of thick walled tubing. Refer to the accompanying illustration for details, cutting away the segments shown with a hacksaw to leave four tangs."

Thick walled tube of the right diameter was unfortunately in short supply, and experience following similar instructions has crafted a beautiful tool in mild steel that instantly mangles on use. Scratching around the 'strange tools' box found a peg spanner for an angle grinder that was 'close' but didn't really fit, giving ride to the idea of drilling a bit of plate, and bolting through to make a four peg, peg spanner to fit the slots. However experience of similar ventures suggested not. So an adaptation of the Haynes suggestion was executed. It wasn't PRETTY but it worked!



A 3/4" socket, (previously featured in these pages! It was split, trying to undo the cylinder head bolts on Wheezil the Diesel's engine!) in the 'junk' tools box, was found to be just the right diameter, and a close approximation to a 'thick wall tube', with a convenient 1/2" socket drive to fit onto a breaker bar in it. It is also (laughable quality, but still better than mild!) hardened tool steel. which was promising, but did mean that it would defy attempts at cutting it with a hacksaw. However, I own an angry grinder. And it that dont work, a BIGGER angry grinder!

I marked roughly where metal needed to be removed, then set to with the cutting disc, roughing out the shape then, more carefully working each tank in turn until it fitted.



I told you it wasn't pretty, but look, it worked, and any tool that does the job, is a good tool!



So, with improvised tool 07716-0020100 on the end of trusty breaker bar, the engine in gear, and the rear brake held down hard.... the castle nut was stormed!

Step 5 - 'Doing' The Clutch



With the Castle Nut loosened, it could be removed by hand, followed by the washers.



The Clutch 'Pack' will then slide out of the basket off the shaft.



 And can be taken apart to fit the new friction plates



The Clutch pack constitutes the hub, five 'friction' plates that tank into the clutch basket on the outside, four plain plates that go between each of the friction plates, splined onto the hub, and the 'master plate' on the end.



With the 'Pack' disassembled, the old friction plates can be removed, and the new ones fitted. It's advised that the new plates are allowed to soak in clean engine oil, over night before use.



Fist friction plate is fitted and bears on baking plate of drum. Plain plate, splined on hub fits next, with another friction plate on top, alternating until you run out of both plain plates and friction plates, and can fit the master plate on the last (5th) friction plate to complete the stack.



Clutch pack reassembled, and the old friction plates can be junked

Step 6 - 'Doing' The Clutch



And the pack reassembled into the basket



We reassembled the same way we disassembled it. Without the springs or release cage fitted. They Haynes provides that the pack be completely assembled with the springs and cage before fitting. this holds the pack together and prevents the master plate falling off the splines on the hub, while fitting into the basket. But that hampers access to the caste nut with our improvised tool 07716-0020100. It does however make refitting the pack something of a faff as that master plate WILL keep falling off the spines, and when it does, you have to take it all apart again to get it back on, or the clutch just wont work! You have been warned! But, making life hard for ourselves.....



Pack fitted to basket, castle nut can be refitted, same way it was removed with improvised tool 07716-0020100, and holding the transmission locked on the rear brake.



And the NEW clutch springs can be fitted. They are longer and stronger than the relaxed old ones taken out, so they will take a bit more force to compress into place.



Release basket can be screwed over the springs, again, carefully compressing the springs evenly working around the four bolts tightening opposites about half a turn a time, so that the basket is clamped up 'square' on the springs.



Release pin sleeve and bearing fitted squarely in the release basket, the clutch is fitted, ready for the cover to go back on.

As Haynes method, the release basket and springs would be fitted to the pack before putting the pack into the clutch basket. The clutch shaft washers and castle nut, would be fitted through the release bearing housing, and tightened up through the same hole. This can make assembly a LOT easier, but only if you can get your improvised tool THROUGH the clutch release bearing housing! If not, then this can work, but you have to be careful to keep the plate pack together while fitting, and expect to have to 'jiggle' it a few times to be sure it works.

If you HAVE used this method, its worth trial fitting the primary drive cover, before fitting gaskets and filling with oil or anything, and checking that the clutch is operating properly, in case you have to strip it back and jiggle the plate pack again!

 

Step 7 (as Oil & strainer)

Before putting everything back together, the casing faces need cleaning up to remove all the old gasket material, before they can be put back on.



A lot of the old gasket may simply tear off by hand, but more stubborn bits will probably need carefully scraping. Care needs to be taken not to damage the gasket faces. A carpentry chisel can make a good scraper, as they are often wider and stiffer than Stanley blades, which can often gauge and scratch the soft aluminium.

 

Both the crank cases And the faces of the primary drive cover have to be cleaned. The sump could do with a bit of a wipe out with tissue, and something soft and pokie, like a lollipop stick to get any gloop or debris out, incase you have dropped any old gasket material in there while scraping. Then a new gasket may be fitted, and the primary drive cover put back on..



DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF GLOOP!

Silicone sealant, hylomar, RTV, 'Squeezee Gasket' are NOT a good idea here, instead of a paper gasket. first you have just cleaned that strainer, and any gloop you use to glue the casing back on with will squeeze out the joint and bits of it will float about in the new oil, and get dragged to and clog that nicely cleaned mesh! NOT GOOD! Worse, one of the oil pump galleries is formed between the crank case and the primary drive cover flange. if you use gloop, its likely to squeeze into that gallery and clog THAT up starving oil flow to the top of the engine! EVEN more NOT GOOD!
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[stinkwheel]

No spark either side?

I'd be looking at a kill-switch or ignition switch fault for starters.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[DottyDuck]

The ignition is an independent circuit; if you keep the 6v stator & points, you wont need to change the coil.

The lighting & charge circuits?

In the 6v arrangement, the lights are on AC direct; unregulated current powers Dip & Main beams, and the stop lamp When 'off' the light switch directs that un-rectified current at the regulator to assist charging for all the other equipment.

AC direct is actually a very 'efficient' system... it has some niggles, BUT, it is efficient, which was why it was used in the olden days. And first fly in your ointment; very easy to go 'Full Rectified DC' lighting; all you have to do is by-pass the AC Direct feed to the light switch, straight to the rectifier, and from memory, on the 6v CG that's just a case of snipping the feed wire to the light switch and tapping it in on a battery fed live... ignoring the voltage for a second, though; this will NOT give you the 'power' for 'better' lights.

Power comes from the generator, and going 'regulated DC', you aren't going to have any more power than you did to start with, and after pumping what you had through the regulator, possibly a tad less.

Yup; taking current for the lights off the battery, you will have all the juice that contains to power lights.... as long as the generator can make more than you take... which if you start fitting higher wattage bulbs, it probably wont.

Lights wont 'dim and bright' with engine revs, as they can on AC direct, especially if the bulb wattage has been increased in nieve belief it'll make lights brighter.

So, think hard on your 'better bulbs'; what power the genny is banging out still has to be shared between everything else switched on, and if the genny ent making enough to supply demand, the battery is a it like an 'over-draft', and it'll only make up the short fall, briefly, IF you 'pay it back'.. If you want to take more watts out on the headlamp, then you have to make savings elsewhere, and on the lower wattages most else draws, and the fact most of it, bar the tail lamp, only draws 'part time', means you will have to save a lot more watts on everything else, than you try giving extra to the head-lamp.

NOW... going 12v starts to become more useful, NOT so you can use common higher wattage 12v headlamp bulbs, but so you can use more readily available 12v devices elsewhere; (you will need to change all the bulbs, the horn, the flasher, and most importantly the battery) and for the most part to find the sort of 'savings' you need, we are talking about LEDing every-buldy thing, from the tail lamp and side-light, and the indies, through its warning lamp and the others for neutral and high-beam.... which begs not just a 12v flasher, but electronic 'Crystal Timed' flasher for LED's.... AND with LED warning lamp, some nifty electrickery to get round the quirk of the stock single bulbs 'reverse earth' wiring, with a 'one way' LED bulb...

Its now getting rather involved..... AND it gets more so..... you want to pick 'better' 12v headlamp bulbs.... well, that suggests the common H4 'car' type bulb fitting. This begs chopping the connector off the wires in the headlamp to fit an H4 plug, for starters, but also a H4 ftting headlamp reflector that the bulb will actually go into....

This, part-mod, would allow the use of an HID headlamp; which conveniently has a mere 35W current draw, not much of anything over 'stock' that could give you a little or breathig space looking for savings elsewhere to power it.. BUT, you have to get a reflector you can make fit i your headlamp bowl, or a complete new headlamp that you can make fit your headlamp bracket, or complete new headlamp AND brackets.. ad the find a new way to mount the indicators, horn, and speedo that share the same 'frame'....

A-N-D... by the time you have chopped all the wiring to get it to stretch or match the new lay-out on the bike, make connectors match, or replaced ones that crumble when you start messing..... you have a mongrel bastard of a wiring loom, that don't look anything like anything in any of the diagrams, with colours changing half way down wires making tracing them a pig, AND so many joints and grafts and pig-matched new and old connectors.... to give grief when you start trying to run the thing every-day.... you might as well have saved yourself a LOT of effort, and hassle, both on the spot ad down the line, getting a few meters or brand new wire, in assorted colours off e-bay; a truck load of Japanese Standard bullet connectors from Vehicle Wiring Products; and the relevent insulator sleeves, shrik-wrap and tape, and a GOOD soldering iron.. and starting from scratch, with a clean sheet of A4 paper and a packet f kiddies felt tips, to draw what you make, 'cos it ENT gona look like the book says it should!

It ent cheap, and it ent easy.. and the niggle over using 6v points generator or making later 12v CDI genny fit your engine, is but SMALL worry in the greater scheme of things.........

But, if you really want to go 12v, probably the surest way about it; and if you can pick up an MOT failed 12v Chiky CG copy 'Spares or Repairs' you probably get all the bits required to do a full conversion, to the book, and a few besides.

Alternatively, and this would be my recommendation; big enough job doing a first time resto; do it to the book and leave it stock.

Lights aren't great, but if properly fettled when you restore and you fit a nice new shiny reflector and clean all the contacts properly to give the stock bulb all the volts it can get, ought to work 'adequately' and probably better than something 'upgraded' badly.
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CBT- 2012 Theory- 18/12/13 Mod 1- 07/01/14 Mod 2- 15/01/14
Old Bike: Zontes Panther 125cc - wrote off Current Bike: Kawasaki ZR7

[WD Forte]

buy a meter
RTFM
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bikers smell of wee

[Nobby the Bastard]

T2 motor, as in the early twin-shock twin, is the most powerful production four-stroke 125 EVER... in good nick should chuck out about 16bhp, as much as the same era two-stroke twins, with more revs and more mid-range!

First off make sure you have a genuine T2 motor, not a later, common as muck, 12bhp Super-Dream engine, or worse, even more common 360 crank CD Benley or CM Rebel engine, that makes about 11bhp on single carb.

Good bits in your engine are the cam-shaft which was the wildest honda made, and about the best you cab fit a CB125 Twin; and the 26mm Carburettors.

Make sure that you have them... again, 'Reduced effect' Super-Dream bits fit, to fix up a knacker.

NOW, personally, I'd be inclined with a T2 to keep it stock. It is a classic and it does have that accolade of the most powerful production 125 four-stroke.

And its a pretty nippy little bike, and I'm not too sure I would want to go much quicker than the genuine 18mph it offers with that cantankerouse cable operated front brake! (It was bad enough on a CB100N single I had the displeasure of, many many years ago, even for the time when a lot of new lightweights still came with drums!)

Anyhow...16bhp... there aren't many Benley based motors that make much more power, and it is as much as the CB200 chucked out....

The CB Two-Fifty the bored and stroked 233cc 360 crank version of the Benley motor only knocked out 19bhp, while the most powerful variant was the CMX 250 Rebel, that was another 233cc 360 crank motor, but with twin CV carbs.... that made 21.

So.... it's a bit mutable how far you may take one of these little babies....

If you have the 26mm carbs and the genuine T2 full-power cam, you are off to a good start, and we know that the head and valves are good enough to flow enough for 20ish bhp... so there is scope to find more by boring.

Bug-bear though is that you cannot go over 142cc on the stock liners. You can get a kit to get this far from china for about £90, complete with pistons and rings... not really worth effing about with C70 slugs, when there's already CB125 pattern pistons that size.

Reports, however suggest that the extra 17cc... about 15% make very little noticeable difference to peak power, though.

But there just ins't enough metal in the sleeves in the barel to go much bigger... you could.... but you would be running on the finning ali.

Bigger liners? Barels from one of the bigger bore motors?

OK, well the biggest Benley based engines are 233cc and they get that from a 53x53 bore & stroke. The 200's are the same 53mm bore, but a slightly shorter stroke.

53mm bore on the 41mm CB125 crank-stroke gives 170cc... so you aren't going to get it all the way out to 200cc on stock 'big-bore-benley' barels.

CB200.... conveniently had the same 41mm stroke as the 125... and to get 198cc, used 55.5mm bore.

Bad news is that that is one over-bore BEYOND max over bore on a big-bore benley barel.... AND Big-Bore-Benley barels dont drop straight onto 125 crank cases.... the liners are too large for the cylinder apature.

OK... machine the block to get bigger barels in..... over-bore a big-bore barel......

You now have to find suitable pistons.... you have gone beyond the bore size for any of the standard Benley engines; not that you would want to use any of the big-bore benley slugs anyway, as they are flat-top low compression jobs, and the gudgeon pin diameter is too big to fit the con-rod, but too small to be sleeved in the piston.

So... boring out the 125 engine;

First problem: is the liner size the cases will take.
Second problem: how big you can bore 'big-bore-benley' liners
Third Problem: finding suitable pistons to match con-rods AND liner bore
Forth Problem: Making sure big pistons actually give you more power and dont rob it, having enough compression

Its a big mine-field. I have trodden it very carefully, and my advice is that unless you are pretty nifty at getting stuff machined to suit, and really know what you are about... which if you're asking here you probably ent..... dont bother trying.

142cc big-bore kit is available off the shelf. Dont make much odds, but probably the best you can do reasonably cheaply and easily.

Make sure it is a genuine T2 spec motor, and you do have the full power that spec offers.

Maybe as 'improvements' consider upgrading to 12v electrics using later Benley or Superdream generator & Superdream CDi Ignition.

Definitely consider what might be done to upgrade that cable disc brake.

Otherwise.... just make the thing as tidy and well fettled as you can and enjoy it for what it is.... a classic tiddler.

No matter how much you tune it, its never going to be very fast. Its a 125...

But in that company its one that you ought not ride on L-Plates or A1 licence becouse its already more powerful than legal restrictions or anything you can buy new in the show-room today!
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[salem1987]

lol after spending your day reading those posts..

Whip the coils off and the bracket and get some sandpaper and clean up any contact points so you're getting a good earth back to the frame.

[Teflon-Mike]

Presume you rode it to work, and so far back, so all good up till...
Recalling history, you have had to fiddle with the tail-lamp bulb to sort an intermittent there; and did you do something with the head-lamp? Could have dislodged a connector in there that's since shaken loose. Though more often the indy wires that do that for some reason.

No 'usual suspect' springs to mind, to fast-track logical fault-finding, other than a weak battery, and making sure that your 'no-spark' symptom is real. Ignition is self exited; sparks are made by the generator spinning; and if the battery is tired and or starter lazy, lack of sparks might not be the 'root cause', of conking out; could just be that after conking out, starter's not turning crank quick enough to make more sparks.

There's no points, & CDi pick-ups and CDI's tend to be pretty much all or nothing; coils, tend to be pretty reliable and not usually susceptible to road-spray; but the HT lead connection can go brittle, and if you are tugging at them to 'test sparks' 'go', making you think you had no sparks, when you may have.

And there's little else in the ignition circuit, that's pretty much independent of all the other electrics, bar the actual ignition switch, so down to tracing wires, looking for loose connections, or corroded joints, frayed wires and bad earth's.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Carvel]

A bit more detail would have been nice teffers.
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2002 Aprilia RSV1000R, Cbr600Fs, Mk1 B12, Vfr400 NC30...

Matt B: I can deal with crushed nuts to beat Ollie.

[cb1rocket]

basics first, feed a direct 6v to the coil (isn't it a 12v system?) and see if the coil fires the spark plug to rule that out and work your way backwards.
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Honda H100S2 Rebuild - https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=253852

[hoolio]

I haven't had much time to give this any attention but have checked and charged the battery,removed the seat and tank checked all visable conections are good,I've popped the headlight and had a look and although there is nothing obvious there are some wires that look unused but these are all female with no loose male ones,

[Pol Anorl]

Emergency Stop! Close your eyes; picture a tranquil beach; BREATH; listen to the waves lapping on the shore; a convoy of jolly bald Tibetan monks in beautiful golden robes are walking towards you along the sand, without leaving footprints, carrying little terracotta tea-cups, and a large copper kettle. They stop on the beach just beside you; the younger monks start to tend to making a fire to boil the kettle, whilst others prepare the tea-pot and arrange the cups, and rattan mats to sit on. The oldest, jolliest monk, curiously wearing a pair of Ronie Corbet glasses; apologises for disturbing your wha, but asks whether you would care to join them in meditation, and watch the kettle for them... Are you confused? How can you meditate and watch the kettle? And if you can? surely they can meditate and watch their OWN kettle, why do they need you to do it? LISTEN to the waves..... before that gaggle of screaming plastic monkey's swinging in the palm tree, drop onto the beach, steal your towel and run into the water with it....... The waves.... focus on the waves.. listen to the water breaking the beach.. THAT is all that matters..... and BREATH. Oh-Kay.... Lots and lots has percolated out in these two threads.. but.. what has been rather more than a little apparent is the amount of MANIC in the bubbles, driving the facts to the surface. So.. ped don't work, and you WANT a motorbike.. and it's the panic of the ped not working, and inconvenience & hassle getting to and from work, that's putting the urgency into the situation... You know what you need, you know what you want, and at THIS moment still, aren't utterly committed to ANY specific course of action. MY ADVICE, for the immediate here and now, then, is to keep the lid firmly on your biro, and NOT sign up to ANYTHING. Take a TIME OUT, listen to those waves lapping and TRY not to do AYTHING you dot HAVE to, right away. Of what's o the table (pending further percolation....) Lets deal with this 'ere moped. It dont work. This is a problem. A REAL problem, and one that appears to be being ignored, and if you carry on, I suspect likely to carry on being ignored. This does not stop it being a problem; it'll just be an ignored one, lying I guess under your Mum's bedroom window, or in the back of the shed. Might ot be YOUR problem when the windowcleaner stubs thier toe on it, or your Dad grumbles he has to shift it to get the law mower out.. but STILL a problem. BUT, Remember; as registered keeper; DVLA are going to hassle you for road tax, even if its not on the road; and they LOVE abandoned & ignored bikes and peds, 'cos they can use any 'breach' or 'oversight' of these new 'contentious taxation' and SORN rules, to chase you for money. THIS at the very least has to be 'sorted' if nothing else is, and is most decidedly YOUR problem. So, lets cut this oe out of the clutter ad deal with it.. and in doing so.. see what that chucks back in the percolator. Bottom line is its broke, and you are happy to leave it that was, cos you dot really like it or want it; understadeable; but. Somethg still has to be done with it, whats the options? a) You try and forget about it. Leave it where it is let it rot. Bare MINIUM, though, you UST sort the paperwork, and either get it on SORN so DVLA cat chase you for tax or insurance fines; OR scrap it. No point, SORNing it, if you want to igore and let it rot; may as well scrap it off properly; which may mean actually taking it to a scrappers and getting a reciept for the thing to send to DVLA to show it HAS been properly disposed of, OR getting scrapper to take the 'keepership' of the thing. This MAY actually cost YOU money, especially if you get them to come round and take the thing away, AND insist they ort the paper to take responsibility for it as Registered Keeper. Mopeds ad bikes weigh bugger all, there's more 'dead weight' at a metal reclamation site in an old washing machine; so dont be surprised if they wat £50 off you to take it off your hands... BUT, problem properly 'gone'. b) You try and flog on 'as is'; advert on Gumtree or e-bay or where ever "Spares or Repairs". Make the thig some-one elses problem; and maybe get £50 for it in the deal. c) fix it. Fixed, you could carry on using it to get to and from work; short term medium term or long. NOT what you want, we know. BUT some 'need' may be satisfied by it, that might allow you some breathig space to let other options pan-out of this soup in the percolator. Fixed. could be sold on as viable vehicle, or traded i against another one. whether you get any use from it in the between time. Question of ecconomics; whats the fix cost? And by who? Pro-Mechanic? Back-Street Bodger? Mate who does it for fun? DIY with your Dad's spanners and some bits off e-bay? Your choice, BUT 'something' needs doing with the ped, and as said, "BREATHING SPACE".. could push back the imperative you get this YBR right here, right now, this week or be damned.. Its a brand new bike, from a dealers... it'll still be there in a month, or if it is't, one just like it will, and the 'deal' they stick on the table will have changed much if any.. like as not just be changing the dates on the forms.... Breathing space... I have said it a awful lot of times; "When it comes to bikes, Rushin' be Quick way to get hurt in a Hurry... take your TIME", and dont just mean not riding too fast and falling off; works just as well in circumstances like this.. so. Sorting the Ped. Problems t may leave definitely 'sorted'; gone away; IF in sorting it; puts way to work wheels under your bum, well, buys you breathing space. If not? Well, its off the list. that is at least 'some' breathing space. Here and now way to work problem remains; but, THAT is another 'problem' one you are obviously working around.. how long can you juggle that and make yourself more breathing space? Because... with a lesson on the cards, I would strongly advice you hang fire, and get by as LONG as you can... take your time, DONT RUSH. Lesson; could completely change your ideas; certainly could change a lot of possible options. It MIGHT inspire you to do a A2 course; in which case that £600 deposit on the YBR might be taken paying for the course, ad you looking for A2 bikes, not 125 commuters. Might not. Might make you re-evaluate the economics of a car, and what you get for those exorbitant costs; MIGHT make you re-evaluate and decide that actually a twist-and-go 125, might be your best bet.... Or or something else. Books still open; race hasn't been run; so dont spend your winnings till the horse has passed the line and the money is in your hand.. dont rush, take your time, make breathing space.. see what settles out of it all.. You're exploring a LOT of detail of ONE avenue, which is good; but you DO seem to be rushing down that ONE avenue.... a bit blithely.... take the time, take a breath, sort the stuff in your wake, that needs to be sorted, look at the other avenues you might take, then come back to it.
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GOOD GAME BODYGUARD: https://i.imgur.com/8WePGgf.jpg
20:30:37 Pyro.: I don't sort of like men, I take every advantage to choke on dick.
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[hoolio]

looks like PaulF-zs has learn't a little copy and paste well done

[Acemastr]

Worlds most detailed thread for the worlds least common question asked for a not so common bike
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2017 KTM 350 XC-F - 2014 Yamaha R6 - 2005 Yamaha YZ125
2016 Toyota Tacoma Limited

[salem1987]

Its easier to take in using this..

https://tts.imtranslator.net/VrNV

[hoolio]

cheers for the help guys all sorted,was traced back to a tiny fray in one of the wires from a cdi unit touching the frame easy fix ,annoying bugger to track down ...

[bikenut]

well done dude, you have learned whilst fixing it!! :karma:
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nuts about bikes