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Suzuki GSR 750 Fi Light NEED HELP

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GSR-KILLER
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 24 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 24 Mar 2015    Post subject: Suzuki GSR 750 Fi Light NEED HELP Reply with quote

Right then guys n girls, got me a gsr 750 l1, love the bike but throght ill do something a little diffrent to it, so currently undergowing a little but of work, so currently got full carbon fiber rear, gsxr 750 forks, wheel, calipers and mudgaurd, also a decat system.

Now just removing the ex-up valve a and its thrown the Fi light up, and iv read all the gsxr fourms and they say disconnect the servo, then remove or cut pin 30 in the ecu done that and it throws up alot more problems, so re connect pin 30 and its still got the fi light. im stumped as i cannot find a wiring diagram for it, so any advice would help Smile

KILLER Karma
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TheArchitect
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 24 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just picked up a GSR750 L2 - but fook me if I understood most of what you just said.

Like the sound of some of the mods you've done though! Thumbs Up

Good luck with getting the issue fixed Thumbs Up
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 24 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know with my Triumph, any FI lights take 3 heat cycles to clear.

A heat cycle is defined as the temp gauge going from 'Lo' to a number and back to 'Lo' again. I.e. run the bike to a temp, turn it off let it cool then do the same again.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 24 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bridge the dealer block, find the code, fix the issue.
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waffles
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 24 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Bridge the dealer block, find the code, fix the issue.


Dis. Get a paperclip, open it up and stick it in the connector block under your seat (think it has a rubber cover over it). I believe (but please double check this for your bike model) you need to bridge the two wires at the end which are black with white stripe and white with red stripe. It should throw up a fault code, if it gives a 00 code that means there is no fault.

CODE LIST: Copy n Pasted
C11 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR OR CIRCUIT
C12 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR OR CIRCUIT
C13 - INTAKE AIR PRESSURE CIRCUIT
C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (01-02 1000 and 06-07 600/750/1000 ONLY)
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Past rides Yamaha XT125X, Triumph TT600, Honda XR250
Current rides Suzuki GSXR 600, Honda MSX125
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