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Tips for buying a used bike

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K4rolis
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 12 Apr 2015
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 01 May 2015    Post subject: Tips for buying a used bike Reply with quote

Hi,

I'm going for a used bike (2004 SV650 with 35k miles on the clock) viewing tomorrow. What are the main things to pay attention to? Chain/sprockets, leaks, engine noise, what else?

The main problem for this viewing is the fact that I cannot do a test ride not having passed my mod 2 yet. Is that absolutely unacceptable while buying a bike?
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 01 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why buy a bike before you can ride it? It's not the best or the cheapest or the last chance example, there are loads of them around.

Anyway, do the pre-ride checks that should have been covered in your CBT.

Tyre tread and condition.
Brakes (should stop when pressed, should go when released).
Suspension (should compress and rebound and not be leaking anything).
Fork stanchion corrosion.
Electrics should all work.
Should start from cold without needing any tricks.
Sprockets shouldn't be hooked or nubby.
Chain shouldn't lift far away from the back of the rear sprocket.
No tight spots on chain (look for links standing proud as they go round the sprockets, particularly the front if you can see it)
No blue or black smoke. A bit of white is likely condensation in the exhaust, but should stop when warmed up.
No oil or coolant leaks.
If you can get it up to temperature, the fan should kick in eventually.
Wheels and swing arm shouldn't wobble from side to side.
Bars shouldn't wobble, steering shouldn't feel notchy.
No rumbling or clattery noises. Clutch basket rattle is normal but should quieten down with the clutch pulled in.

Other than that, you'll have to ride it to check that it goes up and down the gears and pulls well without hesitations or flat spots.
Revs shouldn't rise without the speed rising (clutch slip).

Probably some other things that escape me just now.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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K4rolis
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 12 Apr 2015
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 04 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went and had a look at the thing. Had a dent on the tank that was not visible in ad pictures, also started leaking petrol after starting it up. I was not impressed and wasting half a day was not worth it.

I guess I just got overly excited and felt that I have to spend my money ASAP which is silly now that I think about it. Will start seriously looking into buying a bike AFTER I get my licence. That way I won't miss anything obvious (e.g. a shot gearbox).

A question on test rides - so assuming I do get my licence, how do I have to sort out the insurance so I'd actually be able to do a test ride? Is there any sort of day cover for non-specific bike (if I decide to see a couple of bikes in a day, I want to be covered for all of them obviously)
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RhynoCZ
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Joined: 09 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 04 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's always better to go back with nothing, rather than buying a lemon. Thumbs Up
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 04 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job on walking away, and you're right to wait until you're licensed up.

Before going to view a bike, I typically ask the seller if there's anything that they want to tell me about it. There's often a "Well, actually, mate..."

K4rolis wrote:
how do I have to sort out the insurance so I'd actually be able to do a test ride?

With great difficulty.

K4rolis wrote:
Is there any sort of day cover for non-specific bike (if I decide to see a couple of bikes in a day, I want to be covered for all of them obviously)

Not that I'm aware of.

Once you've got a policy for (generally) a 350cc+ bike, it usually comes with third party cover on other bikes.

Your first bike though, you'll likely have to take a gamble one way or another.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Hefty
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 04 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have a clued-up mate with bike buying experience who can go with you? They'd be able to spot something you might miss through rose-tinted specs.
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'13 Honda CBF125 // '99 Suzuki SV650s // '98 Honda CB600F Hornet
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 04 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would caution that Mate Who Knows About Bikes should actually Know About Bikes. A potential buyer lost out on my perfectly honest GPZ500 because his Mate was a mardy prat who didn't know what he knew he knew.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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daifuco
Nova Slayer



Joined: 17 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 04 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest I think you should focus on your license I know it is hard because I am on the same boat as you.
And apparently this is the worse time of the year to buy a second hand bike, if you are on a budget it might worth to wait later, but dont know how much the prices drop and when.
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K4rolis
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Joined: 12 Apr 2015
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 04 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Mate Who Knows About Bikes thing's not gonna work - don't have any that know about bikes. Will read up as much as I can and try not to get a lemon. As a side question - does it happen often that sellers would actually sell a bike and try to hide crash that it had previously (not even sure if that's legal)?

daifuco, yeah, I'm aware of that, but the whole point for me to get a licence for the summer (and not in the winter when I'm 24!) is that I could actually ride this summer. So waiting for better deals is a no-go for me unfortunately. Sad
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 02:02 - 05 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it isn't as described or the bloke sounds like he's being economical with answers to your questions - walk away. Plenty more bikes around.

Most people are fine and honest but there are some real scummers out there.

Ask for the reg no. before you go and HPI check it.

Even when you have your licence you are very unlikely to get someone that will allow you to test ride their bike. Some will if you stuff the full money in their hand on the drop it, you bought it scenario, but not many. I certainly wouldn't, but I'd take the prospective buyer pillion if he wanted.
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 08:32 - 05 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

K4rolis wrote:
does it happen often that sellers would actually sell a bike and try to hide crash that it had previously (not even sure if that's legal)?

Sellers aren't required to volunteer any information.

And if a bike has been crashed and written off under a previous owner, the current one might genuinely not know.

If it bothers you, you can pay for a VIC check which should turn up any outstanding finance, stolen/recovered markers or insurance write offs.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 05 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tritey wrote:
Ask WHY they are selling the bike, if you at the property and they say they have a new bike, ask to see it, put them on the spot. Also ask the seller for ID.

Might have gone off the deep end a bit there.

I don't really care why they're selling or even strictly speaking who they are.

Yes, if you get a bad feeling, walk away, but at the end of the day you're buying a bike, not making a new chum. If they've got the documentation and the keys it's very likely theirs to sell.

Come across like that with me and you'll be invited to go away and think about it. It's a negotiation, not an interrogation. You may have been down in the dungeon a bit much. Razz
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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K4rolis
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 12 Apr 2015
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 09 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thaks for the input guys! The HPI check will probably provide me all the history I want and then a test ride/viewing will let me get a decent understanding of the current condition (as much as that is possible with no experience in bikes).

Another question that's been bugging me for quite a while now - what about the mileage? I know this is a rather bad question since pretty much everything depends on maintenance, but I'm just curious how much mileage I can expect out of an engine (more specifically - a liquid-cooled V-Twin)? And if it's not about the engine, what is the most expensive thing that can go wrong with high-ish mileage bikes?
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Wednesday Biker
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 11 Sep 2014
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 10 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even when you pass you probably wont be insured to test ride it anyhow.
I've bought without riding before.Lowish mileage and a good check over with engine running,lights brakes,tyres are good,seller seems genuine and i'll take the gamble.
If the bike looks mint the chances are there is nothing wrong with the low mileage engine and its an honest seller.
But do the hpi check.The most likely dodgy thing could be that the seller is selling before the bike is paid off.
I prefer to buy bikes advertised on bike trader than gumtree or ebay but that's just me.I've always used that site.
Gumtree you have to fish through more crap imo and the adverts usually have 2 much text speak in them 4 me Smile
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