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| gunner4life18... |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 05 May 2015 Karma : 
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 Posted: 00:15 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: Geared or T&G |
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Hi all
im 16 and looking to get a 50cc bike i want to get a geared one but dont know the first thing about gears
1. is it hard to learn gears?
2. if u think i should get a geared bike which one?
3. if u think T&G which one?
Many thanks, Harry  |
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| pinkyfloyd |
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 pinkyfloyd Super Spammer

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| bugeye_bob |
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 bugeye_bob World Chat Champion

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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

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 Posted: 08:51 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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And at least with a twist-and-go the variator will keep you near the top of the "powerband". With gears you'll always be in the wrong one, or at least it'll feel that way - I felt this pretty strongly the last time I rode a 125, let alone a 50. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| gunner4life18... |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
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| andyscooter |
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| gunner4life18... |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 12:36 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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Priorities:
1/ Provisional Licence... approx £30 + cost of photo-booth mug-shot to send with form.
2/ Compulsary Basic Training course; aprox £125.
Should teach you all the basics needed to get you out on the road, and on completion, give you a DL196 form to 'Validate' the provisional entitlement of your licence, so you can ride, on the road on L-Plates.
3/ You will need 'basic' riding apparel; at the very least a crash helmet; gloves, sensible footwear; and some water-proofs (unless you like being cold and wet!) Probably some more dedicated 'protective' wear. road Legal Helmets start from about £30 and go up to many £100's. Gloves start at about £20. Water-Proofs from about £20. Propper bike boots, from about £50. Budget about £100-£150 for riding 'gear' to get yourself started.
4/ Before Buying a BIKE buy a BIKE LOCK or you wont have bike for very long. Budget about £50 for security at the very least.
5/ Still not near looking at bikes yet, I'm afraid... boring bit first INSURANCE... you must have basic 3rd party cover as a minimum. Insurance policies last for a whole year, like tax, and have to be paid for up-front. If you see a 'monthly' price, that is for a years insurance and a credit agreement to pay for the years insurance, it is NOT a monthly policy. AND you are too young to legally take out credit in your name. so you are likely to need to pay for your insurance in full up-front before you can do anything with a bike. AND at 16, you will be doing very well if you can find an insurance policy on ANY 50, geared or auto, of any style, for under £500 a year. the newer, the more valuable, and the more you want a particular 50, so the more expensive your insurance is likely to be. So be sure you have the cash to cover that, before you go looking for one.
6/ NOW, with thick end of £1000 pledged to get you on the road.. what might you have left to go shopping for a bike?
7/ AND how you going to do that? How far and wide are you prepared to go to look at bikes? How will you get there? When? and if you do a deal on one, how will you get the bike back home.
8/ What to go for? - For all your ideas of what sort of bike might suit; you can only buy a bike that's is actually for sale; AND you can get to it, AND you can get to it before some-one else keen to buy one.....
And this can be a far bigger 'problem' than what specific make or model of machine you think best suits your needs and wants and the cash you have left after above list.....
ALL motorcycles of ALL capacities only make up 1% of road transport; Half of them are over 125cc, and more than half of whats under 125cc is over 50cc. and then Most 50's on sale, and sold in the UK are twist and go, by a very very large proportion.
So, unless you have the money to walk into a shop and buy a brand new geared 50, the chances are you are going to be searching long and hard to find one at all; and you are likely not going to be getting one all that 'cheap' unless its a complete wreck.
Which is to say, WHEN you get to the point you might actually go shopping THIS question, 'geared or T&G' may be made for you, not by what you might want, but by what is actually on offer, that you can actually afford to buy....
So, right here, right now, not REALLY worth worrying too much about. Start at the top of the list and work down; worry about all the other stuff you need to sort to get to where actually shopping for a 50 is a possibility.
As for the learning gears issue; yeah; its something you have to get the hang of; its not that hard; and in fact its not so much the gears that vex most people, its using the clutch. However; it IS something that is covered and taught on CBT, as said, that is designed to teach you all the 'basics' to get you on the road, relatively safely. It's likely that doing CBT on a 50 will mean doing it on a Twist and Go, though. Because they are so uncommon, few schools have geared 50's for students to use. SOME do though, so may be worth asking when you check out courses; and you can do your CBT on your own bike, and if that has gears, they would obviousely be able to teach you how to use them. But, chicken and egg issues of getting a bike and getting insurance before you have a CBT cert to say you can ride it can make that one awkward; as can getting the thing to and from the school when you cant ride it. Easier to do the course on a school bike, probably T&G then IF you get a geared 50 after, go back to the school for a lesson on geared, perhaps on one of their 125's 'off-road' as Pinky suggests, or on your own geared 50 if you can get it to the school. ALL stuff to talk about when you call them to get prices and course dates.
Other thing is whether they will expect, or reccomend you have your own riding gear before you do it; some may have gear you can borrow for the course; but most will reccomend you have your own helmet and gloves at the least; and offer advice on what is deemed 'suitable' riding wear when you turn up. Also ask about lunch and snacks. CBT can be a long day, and you are likely to have to take a packed lunch and refreshments.
So that's where you should be starting; talking to CBT schools, and sorting your provisional and CBT course, and worrying about budgeting for everything you need before a moped, and the logistics around making that happen, not stuff that may or may not be a big issue ways off down the line to getting on the road. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| josh95 |
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 josh95 Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 23 Apr 2015 Karma :   
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| gunner4life18... |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 05 May 2015 Karma : 
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 Posted: 12:43 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | Priorities:
1/ Provisional Licence... approx £30 + cost of photo-booth mug-shot to send with form.
2/ Compulsary Basic Training course; aprox £125.
Should teach you all the basics needed to get you out on the road, and on completion, give you a DL196 form to 'Validate' the provisional entitlement of your licence, so you can ride, on the road on L-Plates.
3/ You will need 'basic' riding apparel; at the very least a crash helmet; gloves, sensible footwear; and some water-proofs (unless you like being cold and wet!) Probably some more dedicated 'protective' wear. road Legal Helmets start from about £30 and go up to many £100's. Gloves start at about £20. Water-Proofs from about £20. Propper bike boots, from about £50. Budget about £100-£150 for riding 'gear' to get yourself started.
4/ Before Buying a BIKE buy a BIKE LOCK or you wont have bike for very long. Budget about £50 for security at the very least.
5/ Still not near looking at bikes yet, I'm afraid... boring bit first INSURANCE... you must have basic 3rd party cover as a minimum. Insurance policies last for a whole year, like tax, and have to be paid for up-front. If you see a 'monthly' price, that is for a years insurance and a credit agreement to pay for the years insurance, it is NOT a monthly policy. AND you are too young to legally take out credit in your name. so you are likely to need to pay for your insurance in full up-front before you can do anything with a bike. AND at 16, you will be doing very well if you can find an insurance policy on ANY 50, geared or auto, of any style, for under £500 a year. the newer, the more valuable, and the more you want a particular 50, so the more expensive your insurance is likely to be. So be sure you have the cash to cover that, before you go looking for one.
6/ NOW, with thick end of £1000 pledged to get you on the road.. what might you have left to go shopping for a bike?
7/ AND how you going to do that? How far and wide are you prepared to go to look at bikes? How will you get there? When? and if you do a deal on one, how will you get the bike back home.
8/ What to go for? - For all your ideas of what sort of bike might suit; you can only buy a bike that's is actually for sale; AND you can get to it, AND you can get to it before some-one else keen to buy one.....
And this can be a far bigger 'problem' than what specific make or model of machine you think best suits your needs and wants and the cash you have left after above list.....
ALL motorcycles of ALL capacities only make up 1% of road transport; Half of them are over 125cc, and more than half of whats under 125cc is over 50cc. and then Most 50's on sale, and sold in the UK are twist and go, by a very very large proportion.
So, unless you have the money to walk into a shop and buy a brand new geared 50, the chances are you are going to be searching long and hard to find one at all; and you are likely not going to be getting one all that 'cheap' unless its a complete wreck.
Which is to say, WHEN you get to the point you might actually go shopping THIS question, 'geared or T&G' may be made for you, not by what you might want, but by what is actually on offer, that you can actually afford to buy....
So, right here, right now, not REALLY worth worrying too much about. Start at the top of the list and work down; worry about all the other stuff you need to sort to get to where actually shopping for a 50 is a possibility.
As for the learning gears issue; yeah; its something you have to get the hang of; its not that hard; and in fact its not so much the gears that vex most people, its using the clutch. However; it IS something that is covered and taught on CBT, as said, that is designed to teach you all the 'basics' to get you on the road, relatively safely. It's likely that doing CBT on a 50 will mean doing it on a Twist and Go, though. Because they are so uncommon, few schools have geared 50's for students to use. SOME do though, so may be worth asking when you check out courses; and you can do your CBT on your own bike, and if that has gears, they would obviousely be able to teach you how to use them. But, chicken and egg issues of getting a bike and getting insurance before you have a CBT cert to say you can ride it can make that one awkward; as can getting the thing to and from the school when you cant ride it. Easier to do the course on a school bike, probably T&G then IF you get a geared 50 after, go back to the school for a lesson on geared, perhaps on one of their 125's 'off-road' as Pinky suggests, or on your own geared 50 if you can get it to the school. ALL stuff to talk about when you call them to get prices and course dates.
Other thing is whether they will expect, or reccomend you have your own riding gear before you do it; some may have gear you can borrow for the course; but most will reccomend you have your own helmet and gloves at the least; and offer advice on what is deemed 'suitable' riding wear when you turn up. Also ask about lunch and snacks. CBT can be a long day, and you are likely to have to take a packed lunch and refreshments.
So that's where you should be starting; talking to CBT schools, and sorting your provisional and CBT course, and worrying about budgeting for everything you need before a moped, and the logistics around making that happen, not stuff that may or may not be a big issue ways off down the line to getting on the road. |
u are right but then again i have all the gear and i cant get insurance before i have the bike as i dont know what bike im getting also what security do u recommend? and for the umpteenth time what T&G do u recommend??? (50cc) ____________________ Harry |
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| Baffler186 |
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 Baffler186 World Chat Champion

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| gunner4life18... |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 13:06 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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| gunner4life1860 wrote: | u are right but then again i have all the gear and i cant get insurance before i have the bike as i dont know what bike im getting also what security do u recommend? and for the umpteenth time what T&G do u recommend??? (50cc) |
You can get insurance quotes on bikes you don't own, so you know how much you will have to set asside.
as for 'what' T&G 50 I reccomend... I DON'T, to be honest; and pushed.. I STILL don't... go see what's available! No point me suggesting anything if no one has one for sale; and THEN, of what I or any-one else her might think of actual real individual bikes you MIGHT be able to buy... what WE think of the make and model means fuck all if the one in front of you you are considering handing over cold hard cash for is an utter heap of junk thats been crashed fifty times, or is an absolute peach, bought by Daddy for some kid with no interest, that's sat in a garage for the last three years with just three miles on the clock from where the kid rode it round the block in their birthday..
Back to you kid.. start at the beginning, and wok your way down the list, WHEN you have actual real bikes you can buy, in your sights, and the cash to buy them THEN we might be able to offer you something... till then its all up to you.. unless you just want us to join you in your fantasy bike shopping; in which case I'd have a Yamaha TY50, with an 80cc big bore kit; Super-Moto wheels, Sammy Miller poly tank and a flat-tracker tail.. Lil Thomas50 would probably say a Honda 50 Dream replica, or a Honda Melody with Nitreouse oxide, and Niel, a Chinese Peugeot copy with a super-charger... and we could play that game all day.. wouldn't help you get any closer to actually getting your bum on a bike, on the public road, though, would it? ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| gunner4life18... |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 05 May 2015 Karma : 
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 Posted: 13:16 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | | gunner4life1860 wrote: | u are right but then again i have all the gear and i cant get insurance before i have the bike as i dont know what bike im getting also what security do u recommend? and for the umpteenth time what T&G do u recommend??? (50cc) |
You can get insurance quotes on bikes you don't own, so you know how much you will have to set asside.
as for 'what' T&G 50 I reccomend... I DON'T, to be honest; and pushed.. I STILL don't... go see what's available! No point me suggesting anything if no one has one for sale; and THEN, of what I or any-one else her might think of actual real individual bikes you MIGHT be able to buy... what WE think of the make and model means fuck all if the one in front of you you are considering handing over cold hard cash for is an utter heap of junk thats been crashed fifty times, or is an absolute peach, bought by Daddy for some kid with no interest, that's sat in a garage for the last three years with just three miles on the clock from where the kid rode it round the block in their birthday..
Back to you kid.. start at the beginning, and wok your way down the list, WHEN you have actual real bikes you can buy, in your sights, and the cash to buy them THEN we might be able to offer you something... till then its all up to you.. unless you just want us to join you in your fantasy bike shopping; in which case I'd have a Yamaha TY50, with an 80cc big bore kit; Super-Moto wheels, Sammy Miller poly tank and a flat-tracker tail.. Lil Thomas50 would probably say a Honda 50 Dream replica, or a Honda Melody with Nitreouse oxide, and Niel, a Chinese Peugeot copy with a super-charger... and we could play that game all day.. wouldn't help you get any closer to actually getting your bum on a bike, on the public road, though, would it? |
mate i have the gear i have the money for insurance and im willing to spend up to a grand on a bike and i have bikes in my sight the problem is i dont know which bike is better than the other i would rather be recommended a good bike rather than buying something chinese just because its newer than a good make but it will break down every other day!! so as far as im concerned i need to be recommended what makes are more reliable than others ____________________ Harry |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

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 Posted: 13:26 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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| gunner4life1860 wrote: | mate i have the gear i have the money for insurance and im willing to spend up to a grand on a bike and i have bikes in my sight the problem is i dont know which bike is better than the other i would rather be recommended a good bike rather than buying something chinese just because its newer than a good make but it will break down every other day!! so as far as im concerned i need to be recommended what makes are more reliable than others |
If its under ten years old, it'll either be 100% chinese or it'll be Japanese, Italian or french with a high chinese content, up to oooh, 100%!
And unless its brand new, what make it is will make fuck all difference, compared to how numpty the previouse owner or string of owners have been, and how well they have avoided crashing the thing, or wrecking it with well meaning maintenance or ill concieved 'improvements' like trying to 'de-restrict' it!
SO, I recommend the one that's least wrecked!
Whatever that may be!
And since I have absolutely NO IDEA what you are looking at.... I'll leave it to you to decide which one that may be! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

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 Posted: 14:19 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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| gunner4life1860 wrote: | im looking at piaggio nrg, aprilia sr 50, kymco super 8, kymco agility 50??
and whatever others recommend as a good first bike?
Thanks |
https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bike-reviews/
click, enter the makes and models & read.
As new; the Piaggio is slated for poor build; the Aprillia applauded for reasonably good build but critisised for high price; the Kymco's 50's aren't tested; but general opinion of the brand is that they are reasonably good value for money, and pretty dependable if not particularly exiting or stylish.
But, back to what we have been trying to get through to you, this means little in the real world , what they were like 'new' is going to be utterly irrelevant after a few sixteen year olds have thrashed and crashed them for a few years!
How 'reliable' one may prove will be totally down to how well looked after its been before you get it, and how reliable it will be in YOUR care is almost certainly going to depend on how much you care or abuse it there after.
YOU need to get off the PC and go get your hands on the ACTUAL bikes you are considering handing over cold hard money for, and decide FOR YOURSELF which is 'best'.... we CANNOT do that for you! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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 gunner4life18... Two Stroke Sniffer
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 Posted: 19:13 - 06 May 2015 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | | gunner4life1860 wrote: | im looking at piaggio nrg, aprilia sr 50, kymco super 8, kymco agility 50??
and whatever others recommend as a good first bike?
Thanks |
https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bike-reviews/
click, enter the makes and models & read.
As new; the Piaggio is slated for poor build; the Aprillia applauded for reasonably good build but critisised for high price; the Kymco's 50's aren't tested; but general opinion of the brand is that they are reasonably good value for money, and pretty dependable if not particularly exiting or stylish.
But, back to what we have been trying to get through to you, this means little in the real world , what they were like 'new' is going to be utterly irrelevant after a few sixteen year olds have thrashed and crashed them for a few years!
How 'reliable' one may prove will be totally down to how well looked after its been before you get it, and how reliable it will be in YOUR care is almost certainly going to depend on how much you care or abuse it there after.
YOU need to get off the PC and go get your hands on the ACTUAL bikes you are considering handing over cold hard money for, and decide FOR YOURSELF which is 'best'.... we CANNOT do that for you! |
so what you're saying is any bike will do as long as its been looked after im not the typical 16 year old who wants to mess up the bike i work and i just need something to get me from my house to work about 4 miles each way simple as that! ____________________ Harry |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 142 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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