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HELP PLEASE! Rough running engine!

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Dave M
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Joined: 03 May 2013
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 06 May 2015    Post subject: HELP PLEASE! Rough running engine! Reply with quote

Evening,

Yamaha yzf r125 2012 16500 on clock

Could you please advise me on the rough sound coming from my engine. It's running very rough at the moment and I can't figure out why? Full service done with valve clearances done too.

New Castrol 10w40 Power 1 oil
New oil filter
New air filter
New plug with correct gap and strong blue spark
Good compression

This only started happening yesterday. Seems to be worse in 1st and 2nd gear at low speeds. Top end is only about 65 when before it was 70+
Can anyone help please? Thank you.

https://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc487/weedave1/th_Video.mp4
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:38 - 07 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it's been oil-starved. I'd start looking for a new engine, they come up pretty cheap.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Dave M
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PostPosted: 08:27 - 07 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Sounds like it's been oil-starved. I'd start looking for a new engine, they come up pretty cheap.


Is it too late to see if it can be saved? There's an oil check bolt on block which I've checked and oil seeps out after about 20-30 seconds?! Is it just a waste of time checking that? False hope maybe? I was going to sell it soon because I'm moving away! Pissed off now. Don't have the time to put a new engine in it. Thanks Pete.
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Minty
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 07 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best bet is that Paddeh comes along and likes the whiff of buying a killed R125.

He feeds off the scraps of others misfortune.

Oh, the oil drip thing - oil should be trying to escape before the bolt is fully out. Very, VERY not after 20-30 seconds.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 07 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave M wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Sounds like it's been oil-starved. I'd start looking for a new engine, they come up pretty cheap.


Is it too late to see if it can be saved?


You can take the engine apart and change every damaged part in it. But it will cost more than buying a used engine from a crashed bike. Thumbs Down

Take the head cover off and check it inside, then take off the head and check the piston/cylinder, etc. You'll might be lucky and all the noise could come from the head. But the odds are, well, just buy a new engine from a crashed bike. Smile
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Dave M
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 07 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minty wrote:
Best bet is that Paddeh comes along and likes the whiff of buying a killed R125.

He feeds off the scraps of others misfortune.

Oh, the oil drip thing - oil should be trying to escape before the bolt is fully out. Very, VERY not after 20-30 seconds.


Manual says within a minute?!
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P.addy
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Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 07 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bolt, show dat photo.

Don't think its like the old oil level bolts on small bikes, sounds similar to my TTR and its "bleed" screw for the oil. That was due to it having an oil tank though.
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Dave M
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 07 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
What bolt, show dat photo.

Don't think its like the old oil level bolts on small bikes, sounds similar to my TTR and its "bleed" screw for the oil. That was due to it having an oil tank though.


It's an oil flow check bolt to see if oil is flowing. It's located on block just above the exhaust header. It says in manual if oil doesn't seep out after a minute then switch off engine straight away and get it looked at! It's seeping oil after 20/30 seconds which I take it as normal but someone else said no?! Ill put a pic up soon for you Paddy. How much you offering 😜👍



It's the 10mm bolt above the exhaust nut!https://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc487/weedave1/9B051BFA-FDCF-434C-90A0-311EBFDA9F45.jpg
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Dave M
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 12 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Sounds like it's been oil-starved. I'd start looking for a new engine, they come up pretty cheap.


Spot on Pete. I'm gutted Sad I've been quoted £500 all in to replace engine with a lower mileage engine off a 2013 bike with warranty. How does this price sound?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:16 - 13 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave M wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Sounds like it's been oil-starved. I'd start looking for a new engine, they come up pretty cheap.


Spot on Pete. I'm gutted Sad I've been quoted £500 all in to replace engine with a lower mileage engine off a 2013 bike with warranty. How does this price sound?


Sounds like you haven't looked on Gumtree.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 13 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahem**

** --> Linky
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Dave M
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 13 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Pete and Skate. I've made an offer on that engine. How many hours labour am I looking at? Not too confident doing it myself. Cheers.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:30 - 13 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave M wrote:
Thanks Pete and Skate. I've made an offer on that engine. How many hours labour am I looking at? Not too confident doing it myself. Cheers.


I could do it in 2 hours, easily, well, let's not rush it, 3 hours tops. But it all depends on the person that's gonna do it.

Should be simple enough, the tank off, unplug every cable and hoses, undo some bolts/nuts, engine out. Put new engine and the old carb/DFi in, put everything back, fill it up with oil and coolant and hope it'll work. The engine is light, no extra tools are gonna be required.

Yes, it is that simple, you can also check the valve clearances and the timing and timing chain on the new engine. I'd be stupid to damage the new engine after the first start, just because it was out of tune. Thumbs Up

EDIT: Everything that you want to have lose, once the old engine is out, for instance the drain bolt, or the clutch lid etc, to sell those undamaged parts to, get some money back, do it before you take the old engine out.

It's always easier to loosen screws/bolts/nuts when the engine is held by the frame. Wink
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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Dave M
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 13 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Dave M wrote:
Thanks Pete and Skate. I've made an offer on that engine. How many hours labour am I looking at? Not too confident doing it myself. Cheers.


I could do it in 2 hours, easily, well, let's not rush it, 3 hours tops. But it all depends on the person that's gonna do it.

Should be simple enough, the tank off, unplug every cable and hoses, undo some bolts/nuts, engine out. Put new engine and the old carb/DFi in, put everything back, fill it up with oil and coolant and hope it'll work. The engine is light, no extra tools are gonna be required.

Yes, it is that simple, you can also check the valve clearances and the timing and timing chain on the new engine. I'd be stupid to damage the new engine after the first start, just because it was out of tune. Thumbs Up

EDIT: Everything that you want to have lose, once the old engine is out, for instance the drain bolt, or the clutch lid etc, to sell those undamaged parts to, get some money back, do it before you take the old engine out.

When can you come and do it 😆. The thing is that the likes of the timing and stuff scares me! If I get it wrong then I'm back to square one! I just don't understand it. Never have done! I've done valves on this engine before which was a nightmare due to lack of space but engine out would be a lot easier! Can you point me in the right direction on how to do the timing please? Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it.

It's always easier to loosen screws/bolts/nuts when the engine is held by the frame. Wink
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Dave M
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 13 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Dave M wrote:
Thanks Pete and Skate. I've made an offer on that engine. How many hours labour am I looking at? Not too confident doing it myself. Cheers.


I could do it in 2 hours, easily, well, let's not rush it, 3 hours tops. But it all depends on the person that's gonna do it.

Should be simple enough, the tank off, unplug every cable and hoses, undo some bolts/nuts, engine out. Put new engine and the old carb/DFi in, put everything back, fill it up with oil and coolant and hope it'll work. The engine is light, no extra tools are gonna be required.

Yes, it is that simple, you can also check the valve clearances and the timing and timing chain on the new engine. I'd be stupid to damage the new engine after the first start, just because it was out of tune. Thumbs Up

EDIT: Everything that you want to have lose, once the old engine is out, for instance the drain bolt, or the clutch lid etc, to sell those undamaged parts to, get some money back, do it before you take the old engine out.

When can you come and do it 😆. The thing is that the likes of the timing and stuff scares me! If I get it wrong then I'm back to square one! I just don't understand it. Never have done! I've done valves on this engine before which was a nightmare due to lack of space but engine out would be a lot easier! Can you point me in the right direction on how to do the timing please? Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it.

It's always easier to loosen screws/bolts/nuts when the engine is held by the frame. Wink
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