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Bar inner weight broke

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FlightRisk
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Joined: 08 Jul 2014
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 22 May 2015    Post subject: Bar inner weight broke Reply with quote

So this happened:

https://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah52/celt500/BarWeight_zpsosmjofyb_1.jpg

Arse. Neutral

Thinking options are;
- shove the whole thing back in with a big blob of epoxy
- unscrew and carefully epoxy in the broken inner bit somehow without clogging the thread
- ignore
- take the other one off to match and gain filtering narrowness

Any reason not to go with the first option?
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Honda CB500S


Last edited by FlightRisk on 01:42 - 23 May 2015; edited 1 time in total
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 22 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the thread a part of the bar or is the bar completely hollow with a plastic ''nut'' punched in? You can get a brand new inner part (the plastic nut).

Quote:
Any reason not to go with the first option?


One day, you're gonna lose the weight at the least convenient moment, preferably at high speed. Thumbs Down

EDIT: It's not like you are going to crash, when it happens, but you are going to drop a 350g or what the your ones weight at high speed, putting everyone around in danger.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor


Last edited by RhynoCZ on 22:51 - 22 May 2015; edited 1 time in total
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FlightRisk
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 22 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Is the thread a part of the bar or is the bar completely hollow with a plastic ''nut'' punched in?

Quote:
Any reason not to go with the first option?


One day, you're gonna lose the weight at the least convenient moment, preferably at high speed. Thumbs Down


I think there's the hollow bar, then a weight pushed inside, then the end bits screwed into that.

Hmm... that could do a bit of damage at high speed. Suppose I could wait until someone is really annoyingly tailgating me, pull it out and toss it over my shoulder. Twisted Evil
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 22 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see, get that plastic bit out of the bar, shouldn't be a problem, use your wits. Then look for a new inner bit. Thumbs Up

I'd try everything I've got in my garage to get it out and then, if not lucky, I'd just use a power drill. Thumbs Up
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 22 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB500SX-SPORT-1999/part_69139/
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misscrabstick
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 22 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a weight from a 2003 cb500 in my workshop somewhere, we put some blingier ones on my lads cb and I removed the weights. If any good i can send them FOC.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 22 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:

EDIT: It's not like you are going to crash, when it happens, but you are going to drop a 350g or what the your ones weight at high speed, putting everyone around in danger.


Looking at your pictures. That red GPz, that the 750? if so dod the 750/900 R clocks just bold straight on?
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FlightRisk
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PostPosted: 01:59 - 23 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

misscrabstick wrote:
I have a weight from a 2003 cb500 in my workshop somewhere, we put some blingier ones on my lads cb and I removed the weights. If any good i can send them FOC.


Very kind of you but I'm not in the UK so postage would probably be silly. Thank you though!

CaNsA wrote:
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB500SX-SPORT-1999/part_69139/


Thanks, it's actually the other bit - the long hidden inside the bar weight - that's broken. I've edited the title to not be so confusing.
But yeah found it on there, £25ish.

Meh... I may just go for the 'ignore' option, this bike is just a 'runner', much as I love it. Haven't actually noticed any difference in vibration without it.
Is shitloads of epoxy definitely a bad idea then? Confused
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 23 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

GPz750 wrote:
RhynoCZ wrote:

EDIT: It's not like you are going to crash, when it happens, but you are going to drop a 350g or what the your ones weight at high speed, putting everyone around in danger.


Looking at your pictures. That red GPz, that the 750? if so dod the 750/900 R clocks just bold straight on?


The GPz is a '88 550, the clocks are from GPZ600R, put there by the previous owner. He made a very simplistic bracket for them. I could set the angle of the clocks to the top yoke. It was two pieces of metal in the right angle, perpendicular to the base of the bracket, which was bolted onto the top yoke with 2 bolts and there were 2 bolts in the back of the clocks, as well.

Here you can see the top yoke bolts, on the left and right next to the ignition barrel.

https://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae184/RhynoCZ/GPz550/Fotografie-0026-1.jpg

The rev counter was not working, but the volt meter, speedo/odo and all the lights in the clocks did very well. Later on I found out the rev counter circuit in the clock was burned, so if I got a new rev counter (from a GPZ600R) I think it would have worked just fine. But all I did was, I took the rev counter out and used some black duct tape to cover the hole behind the glass. Thumbs Up

By the way, the fairing, headlight and turn signals were from an XJ550/600. The round headlight (in older pictures) was from a Jawa 350/640.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor


Last edited by RhynoCZ on 12:57 - 23 May 2015; edited 1 time in total
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Casper
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 23 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top end yoke is all the same with my 750 so ill look into that cheers. Thumbs Up I took the fairing off and went naked but the standard clocks look odd and having bar risers and trail bike bars i had to take the idiot lights out so miss them. I was using clocks from a GT750 but could not get the fuel gauge to work. I take it it worked fine on the 600R clocks.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 23 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

GPz750 wrote:
Top end yoke is all the same with my 750 so ill look into that cheers. Thumbs Up I took the fairing off and went naked but the standard clocks look odd and having bar risers and trail bike bars i had to take the idiot lights out so miss them. I was using clocks from a GT750 but could not get the fuel gauge to work. I take it it worked fine on the 600R clocks.


I've never plugged the fuel gauge in, I just used the LCD panel on the tank, but my mate said it could have been plugged in with no problem. Thumbs Up

After all, the fuel gauge is basically just a volt meter, just like the rest of the clocks (except the speedo, that's fully mechanical). Thumbs Up
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 23 May 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honda. Knew this from the title Laughing Die cast alu rod with a deep thread - much longer than the bolt. Its a weak part that will often snap, not great crash protection.

Celt500 wrote:

Is shitloads of epoxy definitely a bad idea then? Confused


Yes, bad idea. Epoxy will have little strength used like this, will rip out easily.

Buy some cheap chinese bar ends off ebay, couple quid, the expanding rubber on a bolt will hold in much better.

I made new bar ends from black nylon rod, it should provide much better protection than aluminium.
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