Bike won't turn over after fitting renthals

[Ol]

Firstly apologies for any typo's - am posting from my phone.

Been helping a mate sort some bits on his 2001 Bandit 6. We removed the original handlebars and fitted some renthals. When we have refit everything to the handlebars all the switches work ok (lights / indicators etc) but when you press the start button there's nothing, no clicking as if the batteries dead or anything, just nothing.

We have already checked the following to no avail:

Turned the ignition on and shorted the terminals on the starter and it ran fine, used the cut off switch to turn it off and that worked fine, so the cut off switch is working and in the right position, just wouldn't start with the button.

Shorted out the clutch switch just in case and again, starts fine when shorting the starter but not the start button.

We've opened up the headlight to check we've not stretched any wires when re-fitting the bars but there was a good 3 or 4" or play left in the wires and all the connections were good.

Removed all the connection plugs and coated with WD40 and re-fit

Tested the actual start button with a multimeter and it was working ok

I'm all out of ideas... The kill switch, clutch switch, wires and connections are all ok - so I'm stumped! anyone got any advice?!

Cheers
Ol.
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Previous: Cub50, NRG50, TS50, YB100, CB125, NSR125, ZZR600, CBF1000, SV650s, ZX6R B1H, XT250, Mito Powered Crosser, WRF450, , FZ600, VN800, GSXR600 - Currently CB1000R

[stinkwheel]

I usually like to follow the power and see where it disappears.

So, get out your multimeter, set it to Volts DC and connect the negative to an earth somewhere.

Now check the various parts of the circuit with the ignition on and the button pushed with the positive probe to see if there is 12v DC. When you find where it stops, you've found the problem.

So check power is going into the switch. Check it is coming out the other side. Carry on following the wiring, checking for voltage at each point until you get to the starter solenoid. If there's power getting into the solenoid, the solenoid itself is faulty.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Taught2BCauti...]

I'm sure I heard about something similar a while ago - turned out that the stock handlebars were earthed through the clamps, but the new bars were anodised and didn't give a good earth to the starter switch and the horn button.
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
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[DrSnoosnoo]

[Ol]

[Ol]

Just in case anyone's interested...

Turned out to be a faulty connection on the clutch switch, presumably got damaged when swapping to the new bars, so although i had the meter on the switch itself that showed it working, and linking it out (bit o' wire shoved in both ends) it didn't make any difference when one of the little wires going into the switch wasn't making a good connection.

Much appreciate everyone help
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Previous: Cub50, NRG50, TS50, YB100, CB125, NSR125, ZZR600, CBF1000, SV650s, ZX6R B1H, XT250, Mito Powered Crosser, WRF450, , FZ600, VN800, GSXR600 - Currently CB1000R