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Trackr
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PostPosted: 06:34 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Having trouble learning mechanical Reply with quote

So, I'm trying to get my license and my intention is to buy a 250-400cc automatic motorcycle, but the only one I'm allowed to learn on is a 250 mechanical.

I've been riding road bikes (bicycle) for years, so getting a grip on a 125 automatic took about 5 minutes.. but for the life of me I can't seem to grasp the mechanical one (pun intended).

My main issue is that to achieve momentum, you have to play a very precise game with the clutch and gas. You have to very slowly let go of the clutch until the bike just barely starts to move, then quickly apply gas to a point where the engine is between 2,500 and 3,000 RPMs, and keep it that way steady.

What I've learned is that if you let go of the clutch too fast - the bike stalls. If you don't give the bike enough gas with the clutch in proper place, the bike stalls. It feels like I'm playing operation!

Even when I get the clutch into the perfect position and rev the engine just right, it still vibrates in a fashion that feels very much like it's about to stall, though it doesn't.

So, in the end, I'm able to perform well on the obstacle course, but I just don't feel like I have a good understanding of what I'm supposed to do and it ends up feeling like trying to crack a safe while riding a bicycle.

All this when I have no intention of purchasing a mechanical bike, so I feel extremely out of sorts. Doesn't help that my teacher isn't that great and he's the 7th teacher I've found and the best of all of them.. and it's costing me $25 for a 40-minute lesson.

Does anyone have any assuring words?
I just wanted to get this license so I can take my girl on long trips. It's what we've always wanted to do. Neutral

Thanks!
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Sload
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PostPosted: 07:00 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Practice makes perfect. All you are doing is controlling the slip on the transmission between the gearbox and the engine.
That is why if you are idling and you pop the clutch out fast it will stall but if you are reving its tits off it will wheelie you off.

Really it is just practice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W22SwZQH1JU
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Trackr
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PostPosted: 07:13 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sload wrote:
Practice makes perfect. All you are doing is controlling the slip on the transmission between the gearbox and the engine.
That is why if you are idling and you pop the clutch out fast it will stall but if you are reving its tits off it will wheelie you off.

Really it is just practice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W22SwZQH1JU


I agree that practice is vital, but if I'm not completely sure of what I'm supposed to practice, I'm just burning fuel and wasting money.

I'm starting to think that the motorcycle I'm allowed to practice is on is faulty, or at least more difficult to ride. Youtube videos make it seem like the shift is so smooth.

Maybe if I understand the process better..

So, the clutch basically connects the engine with the back wheel, right? Easy enough. But why is it that when you hold the clutch the engine keeps revving without pulling on the throttle? It just stays at ~2,000 RPM until you let go of the clutch and the RPM drop down until it stalls, unless you give it more gas.

So, if holding the clutch disconnects the engine from the wheels and also keeps the engine at a low rev, why does the engine stall as soon as you let go of the clutch? Is it because 2,000 RPM isn't enough to move the wheels so it tries but fails to move the motorcycle and needs more juice?

In that case, why do you have to let go of the clutch slowly? If I'm revving but I let go of the clutch quickly, it still stalls. Is my bike just really particular?
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andyscooter
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PostPosted: 07:44 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

im guessing you are not in the uk


so not sure of laws where you are


what exactly is the person teaching the lessons telling you as clutch control is number one

its the first thing you get taught on a cbt over here
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

<TefSperg>
Tie a piece of string to a house key and spin it around. That's a bike engine. Put your face in front of the key to simulate letting out the clutch suddenly. The key has very little momentum and it stops (the engine stalls).

Now tie that piece of string to a house brick and spin it at the same speed. That's a car engine. Feel all that extra energy that you need to put in to get it up to speed? Now put your face in front of the brick. See the difference?
</TefSperg>

You don't need to understand the laws of physics, just stop trying to pick a fight with them. Rev the engine first, then let the clutch out gradually. Just do it, it's not hard.

Invest half an hour in riding slowly, stop and start, just by slipping the clutch with the throttle held in a constant position. There, you've learned it.
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Trackr
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
<TefSperg>
Tie a piece of string to a house key and spin it around. That's a bike engine. Put your face in front of the key to simulate letting out the clutch suddenly. The key has very little momentum and it stops (the engine stalls).

Now tie that piece of string to a house brick and spin it at the same speed. That's a car engine. Feel all that extra energy that you need to put in to get it up to speed? Now put your face in front of the brick. See the difference?
</TefSperg>

You don't need to understand the laws of physics, just stop trying to pick a fight with them. Rev the engine first, then let the clutch out gradually. Just do it, it's not hard.

Invest half an hour in riding slowly, stop and start, just by slipping the clutch with the throttle held in a constant position. There, you've learned it.


I was told to do the opposite, as in to let go of the clutch slowly until the bike starts moving forward and only then to twist the throttle.

Either way, though, it's still a very tight balance between going forward and stalling. Does it have to be so fine tuned or is it just a lousy bike?
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trackr wrote:
I was told to do the opposite, as in to let go of the clutch slowly until the bike starts moving forward and only then to twist the throttle.

Either way, though, it's still a very tight balance between going forward and stalling. Does it have to be so fine tuned or is it just a lousy bike?


Get the revs to 5k, release clutch slowly, the revs will drop a touch, you can add more throttle to maintain 5k while holding the clutch and you're moving.

Stop thinking and start riding [Go Tef!]
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trackr wrote:
I was told to do the opposite, as in to let go of the clutch slowly until the bike starts moving forward and only then to twist the throttle.

Engage the clutch with the engine at idle? Either you've found seven professional instructors who are all idiots (I wouldn't rule it out), or there's been a breakdown in communication.

You need to rev a small engine and slip the clutch in order to move off. In fact, once you get onto a twist-and-go bike, you'll find that it's the process of revving the engine that causes the centrifugal clutch to engage.

On a manual bike, there's no practical reason not to get the revs up before you start to let the clutch out, unless you're trying to show that you can (pointlessly) work both controls perfectly at exactly the same time. You have a wet clutch that can be slipped without burning it out and I'd suggest that you make use of it for its intended purpose.

Also, you need to be confident to ride a bike, particularly a manual. Once you start fretting about stalling, it's only going to get worse. Give it a good handful of revs (with the clutch held in), note that you do not die, award yourself One Man (or Woman) Point, then take it from there.
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James83
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess here is that they are trying to teach you about finding the bite point of the clutch, rather than to actually get rolling like that.

Heres how moving off works when you have the hang of it - Right hand brings the revs up, while the left hand releases the clutch to the bite point. Just as the clutch bites, the revs hit the right number, you gently (Or not so gently depending how much of an orangutan you are) let the clutch the rest of the way out.

Heres how that works when you don't have the hang of it - your right hand rolls on and the bikes revs shoot up to the top third of the range and sit there. Your left hand, without the experienced feel for the bite point, slowly start letting the clutch out from fully closed. You sit there for 5-20 seconds with the engine thrashing while you find the clutch bite point, then you pull away.

To avoid sitting there racing the engine and feeling silly, what you can do is let the clutch out to the bite point first. This is the point where the bike feels like its trying to move, but doesn't actually go anywhere. If you do it right, you can still bring the revs up. Once you found it, THEN bring the revs up, THEN let the clutch out gently to move off. I suspect that this is what your instructors are trying to teach you. If its not, then its a good way to learn how to find that bite point, so give it a try.

Once you can do it when concentrating on it, it won't be long until you can do it without even thinking about it.
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Trackr
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

snoosnoo wrote:

Get the revs to 5k, release clutch slowly, the revs will drop a touch, you can add more throttle to maintain 5k while holding the clutch and you're moving.


At 5k the engine is ridiculously loud and draws attention, so I try never to go past 4k. Doesn't seem like anyone else has that problem. Maybe it's the first gear? I wouldn't presume to know.

Rogerborg wrote:

Engage the clutch with the engine at idle? Either you've found seven professional instructors who are all idiots (I wouldn't rule it out), or there's been a breakdown in communication.


Letting go of the clutch until the bike starts to move slowly is part of the course and from what I've seen it's supposed to be pretty basic.. now I'm confused.

You're supposed to hold the clutch tight, then slowly let go until the bike starts to move, at which point you can either keep the current speed for balancing slowly on a line (part of the course), or give it some power.

Rogerborg wrote:
unless you're trying to show that you can (pointlessly) work both controls perfectly at exactly the same time.


YES! That's precisely what this feels like! I can't 'get used' to riding when I feel like I have to look at the clutch and make sure I have both hands perfectly timing the grip & twist, respectively.

So, the solution is to rev up the engine first? I will try it!

Rogerborg wrote:
Also, you need to be confident to ride a bike, particularly a manual. Once you start fretting about stalling, it's only going to get worse. Give it a good handful of revs (with the clutch held in), note that you do not die, award yourself One Man (or Woman) Point, then take it from there.


I'm not fretting about stalling, actually. Second lesson I didn't stall once and I think I got the hang of at least keeping the bike alive.

I'm only having the ignition trouble I've been describing and also keeping the bike steady and straight. It's so easy on my 4 lb. bicycle but on this >300 lb. motorcycle, I'm finding it quite difficult to not feel the need to stop with both feet on the ground.

I'm also only allowed to brake with the right foot brake, not the front brake, which makes the balancing even tougher. I've had the bike fall flat on its side once.. I still feel terrible about that and cringe at the thought of it. Though, surprisingly, the instructor didn't seem to mind as much as me. He minds other stuff, though.

James83 wrote:
My guess here is that they are trying to teach you about finding the bite point of the clutch, rather than to actually get rolling like that.


Yeah, that was my thought too, but they moved me to the obstacle course without telling me any more. It's honestly not a very good place to learn but like I said - it's the best I've found so far. I could trade a more personal lesson with a worse teacher, though.

James83 wrote:
Heres how moving off works when you have the hang of it - Right hand brings the revs up, while the left hand releases the clutch to the bite point. Just as the clutch bites, the revs hit the right number, you gently (Or not so gently depending how much of an orangutan you are) let the clutch the rest of the way out.


It FEELS like a hairline bite point when I try it. Anything below, the engine revs for nothing. Anything above, the engine dies unless I give it 3k minimum. Again, I feel like this bike sucks but I have absolutely no way of knowing this for sure. I'm not trying to remove guilt from myself.

James83 wrote:
Heres how that works when you don't have the hang of it - your right hand rolls on and the bikes revs shoot up to the top third of the range and sit there. Your left hand, without the experienced feel for the bite point, slowly start letting the clutch out from fully closed. You sit there for 5-20 seconds with the engine thrashing while you find the clutch bite point, then you pull away.


Here's the issue - I can do that fine once or twice, but when I'm in the middle of the obstacle course, I simply don't have the multitasking capacity to remember these steps. It seems like they're above what I can memorize in muscle memory, like I'm trying to learn how to do too many things at once.

I just miss the automatic bike so very, very much.

James83 wrote:
To avoid sitting there racing the engine and feeling silly, what you can do is let the clutch out to the bite point first. This is the point where the bike feels like its trying to move, but doesn't actually go anywhere. If you do it right, you can still bring the revs up. Once you found it, THEN bring the revs up, THEN let the clutch out gently to move off. I suspect that this is what your instructors are trying to teach you. If its not, then its a good way to learn how to find that bite point, so give it a try.


Yeah, that's what the instructor has taught me to do - bring the clutch to the bite point and only THEN bring the revs up. The bike itself will happily move at 5-10kph with the clutch alone (no throttle), as well, which is useful because getting the revs between 2.5-3.5k is extremely hard. It's, again, a hairline 1mm point on both the clutch and the throttle that I have to memorize.

James83 wrote:
Once you can do it when concentrating on it, it won't be long until you can do it without even thinking about it.


God, I wish that was the case. I'm usually so good at learning new things. It took me about an hour to learn how to ride a bike, a few minutes to ride my electric bike, barely any time at all to ride my road bike at top speed.. which is why I'm here - I feel like there is something I'm missing.

I'm headed to the next lesson. I'll try revving up the engine first.

Thanks everyone! Smile
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trackr wrote:

.. I feel like there is something I'm missing.



Patience!

Some things take practice to get right. Once you've mastered clutch control on a bike see if you can find someone who'll give you some lessons in a 'stick-shift' car - you'll find driving cars becomes fun too Smile
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Sload
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are really making a meal out of this fella.

You can pull off one of two ways really. For educational purposes, sit on the bike with both feet down whilst it idles. Pull in the clutch then select first gear. Put your foot down again and do not apply any throttle. Now very slowly let your clutch out. Once you feel it start to pull a little, the revs will drop slowly, hold this position on the lever. The bike will gradually start to move so just allow your feet to slip or lightly walk it and maintain your balance.
That is your clutch bite point. You can let it out a tiny bit more and you will gain momentum a little more quickly. Once you are rolling a bit better, gradually let your clutch lever out very slowly until it is fully engaged, you should now be rolling along quite nicely with your clutch lever all the way out and with no gas applied. If you stalled whilst doing this your were too fast / jerky on the clutch lever. Try this until you are comfortable and can do it without stalling.

Once you are happy with this do it again but use the throttle as well now. Follow the same steps as above, but when you pull the clutch in, turn your throttle till you are at about 3k rpm. Lock your wrist and hold it there and now do the above. Again find your bite point and gradually let out your clutch. You will feel the difference straight away and you will also notice that by the time your clutch is out you will be travelling a bit quicker. Practice this with the aim of getting faster and smoother. Once you have the hang of this, the rest will start to come naturally.

And you are training and trying to learn, empty your cup and dont complain about fuel use and noise, you can worry about that when you have sussed it out.
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FuzzyBallz
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you not considered buying a top notch road bicycle? Probably the best option Thumbs Up
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trackr wrote:


At 5k the engine is ridiculously loud and draws attention, so I try never to go past 4k. Doesn't seem like anyone else has that problem. Maybe it's the first gear? I wouldn't presume to know.


At 12 grand, my FZR thou exup sounds insane.

That's why I rev the fucking bollocks off it if car/van drivers are blocking the filtering zone.
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FuzzyBallz
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Trackr wrote:


At 5k the engine is ridiculously loud and draws attention, so I try never to go past 4k. Doesn't seem like anyone else has that problem. Maybe it's the first gear? I wouldn't presume to know.


At 12 grand, my FZR thou exup sounds insane.

That's why I rev the fucking bollocks off it if car/van drivers are blocking the filtering zone.


When I see your posts, I really crave a packet of salted cashews!
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FuzzyBallz wrote:

When I see your posts, I really crave a packet of salted cashews!


Come to bcf bbq and you can spend 3 days sucking on my nuts. I won't complain.
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FuzzyBallz
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
FuzzyBallz wrote:

When I see your posts, I really crave a packet of salted cashews!


Come to bcf bbq and you can spend 3 days sucking on my nuts. I won't complain.


Might just take you up on that offer if I can add my own spice blend first?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trackr wrote:
At 5k the engine is ridiculously loud and draws attention, so I try never to go past 4k.

It's not a car. Small engined bikes need to be revved. I wouldn't say strictly 5K, but you want to be comfortably above idle, 2500 - 3000 at least.

I'm not saying that you can't do a perfectly timed clutch-off-throttle-on take off so that the revs never go much higher than absolutely necessary. With practice and familiarity with a particular bike, you would end up doing that. Your instructors will be doing it, but they'll be on bigger engined bikes that make it easier, or at least will be very familiar with the training bikes.

Put them on a new, unfamiliar bike though (pretty much the situation you're in) and I guarantee you that they'll give it a handful of throttle when pulling away because nobody wants to look like a prat (or get t-boned on a junction) by stalling just to prove a point.

For your purposes, on that bike, you don't need the perfect start. You just need to get moving in a confident controlled manner, enough to get through your test(s) and get licensed up, then you can leave it all to Mr Variator in future.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:


I'm not saying that you can't do a perfectly timed clutch-off-throttle-on take off so that the revs never go much higher than absolutely necessary.


If I try that, 2 times in 7 I'll stall and I has more torques than you can throw a Clarkson at .
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FuzzyBallz
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

With regard to what Rogerborg said, I was still revving the Shiver 750 even on my mod 2 more than I needed to, to take off, as long as you take off smoothly the RPM doesn't matter
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 18 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

To clarify the clarification, "absolutely necessary" still means "more than idle".

If in doubt, err on the side of revs.
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 19 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is tricky, at first. You simply need time to adjust to it.

My experience of training was nearer the deep end.. and tbf, it should be. Once on the road there is little time to kcuf about babying the clutch with cars all around getting more annoyed at the noob who can't get it going quickly enough. (unless you're a tattooed beefcake that no one in their right might is going to mess with)

Its also worth remember that most, if not all, clutches are going to feel different. One clutch might have the 1mm feel. Others you might need to let the entire level out before anything happens.

Can you try a different bike at your training school?
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