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Did I just buy Bodyguard's Fazer?

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GeorgeB.
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 16:47 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Did I just buy Bodyguard's Fazer? Reply with quote

Just bought a fazer off a bloke in Darwen. As I was getting it home, the clutch cable snapped. That's a bit unfortunately timed, I think to myself. No worries though, I'll go and grab a new one and fit it, go out on it in time for a blast before work.

Whip the front sprocket cover off, only to find this:

https://imgur.com/celMF8G

I reckon it's snapped changing gear without the clutch. Fucking annoyed isn't the word. Gonna see if the guy will just refund it, but my hopes aren't high.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picture link bolloxed.
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GeorgeB.
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://imgur.com/celMF8G
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NJD
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP's image:

https://i.imgur.com/celMF8G.jpg

No idea why it's so big Rolling Eyes
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
OP's image:

https://i.imgur.com/celMF8G.jpg

No idea why it's so big Rolling Eyes


Rolling Eyes
Op's image resized

https://i.imgur.com/celMF8Gl.jpg
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the shaft look like? I had a yammy and the thread was pulled out of the nut but the thread on the shaft was fine.
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Vracktal
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the thread for holding the sprocket nut on is fucked. And the chain looks slack.

Should check to see if the subframe is bent also.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep looks nasty, I'd be seriously pissed off to find that.
(Its not even a good bodge, ie crude but effective)

Cant see the relative dimensions so unsure of shaft diameter
but if a refund or new shaft is a PITA,
is there anything be said for counterboring and tapping the output shaft and using a bolt/washer type thing?
https://oi60.tinypic.com/2rndg85.jpg
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be possible to recover with a decent thread file and a new nut.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're stuck with the bike, it might be worth approaching Yamaha regarding a replacement nut and shaft.

Yamaha issued a thicker replacement sprocket nut (originals were 9mm thick, I think the replacement is 12mm). They said it wasn't a recall but a modification
Rolling Eyes

They also replaced some output shafts depending on certain thread measurements, which unfortunately it doesn't look like you'll be able to take. But if that is a 9mm nut, you might be able to argue for the output shaft replacement too. All if you can't chuck the bike back at the seller of course. Might be worth a shot.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Might be possible to recover with a decent thread file and a new nut.


I don't think I would trust that Pete, too much of the thread has gone.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you got to lose? The nut can't fall off with the sprocket cover fitted.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
What you got to lose? The nut can't fall off with the sprocket cover fitted.


The 9mm nuts can and do come off. It's well documented that a number of owners have taken the cover off to find no nut there at all Shocked
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:
Pete. wrote:
What you got to lose? The nut can't fall off with the sprocket cover fitted.


The 9mm nuts can and do come off. It's well documented that a number of owners have taken the cover off to find no nut there at all Shocked


Aah right. On my Fazer the nut was rattling about on the shaft so much the threads were all peened away but it never fell off. I just got a new nut, gave the threads a bit of a dress and fitted it on.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Yep looks nasty, I'd be seriously pissed off to find that.
(Its not even a good bodge, ie crude but effective)

Cant see the relative dimensions so unsure of shaft diameter
but if a refund or new shaft is a PITA,
is there anything be said for counterboring and tapping the output shaft and using a bolt/washer type thing?
https://oi60.tinypic.com/2rndg85.jpg


Couldn't go too large on the hole size though. That shaft transmits the full power from gearbox to front sprocket so I'm not sure how much metal removal it would take without failing.
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Sload
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
Couldn't go too large on the hole size though. That shaft transmits the full power from gearbox to front sprocket so I'm not sure how much metal removal it would take without failing.


Probably his cheapest and easiest solution at this point though. He either tries to rectify it or replaces the shaft at this point (unless he can get his cash back). looks like a pain to chase a thread back onto that.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't the "cheapest and easiest solution" be to weld the nut back on?
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Vracktal
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
WD Forte wrote:
Yep looks nasty, I'd be seriously pissed off to find that.
(Its not even a good bodge, ie crude but effective)

Cant see the relative dimensions so unsure of shaft diameter
but if a refund or new shaft is a PITA,
is there anything be said for counterboring and tapping the output shaft and using a bolt/washer type thing?
https://oi60.tinypic.com/2rndg85.jpg


Couldn't go too large on the hole size though. That shaft transmits the full power from gearbox to front sprocket so I'm not sure how much metal removal it would take without failing.


Also worth considering - the sprocket and gearbox shaft get pretty hot at motorway speeds, might find using this method ends up with the bolt permanently seizing in the hole you drill. Confused
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 20:00 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:


Couldn't go too large on the hole size though. That shaft transmits the full power from gearbox to front sprocket so I'm not sure how much metal removal it would take without failing.


It's the splined bit that takes the load though.

Looks like plenty of meat beyond that to drill and tap a hole to get a long enough bolt in there. Remember the nut/bolt only stops the sprocket coming off the splines, it shouldn't be seeing any significant sideways load providing the chain is straight and true.

Besides which, in engineering terms, a hollow tube is almost as strong as a solid bar of the same diameter, especially in compression.

I like what WD Forte suggests. Hole down the shaft and tap it to fit a big f-off flange bolt with a fine pitch such that you can fit a spacer under it to hold the sprocket on the splines. Bet you could even make the spacer out of nylon (or drill out the centre of the welded nut of doom slightly and use that as a spacer).

I'm not even going to suggest you could probably turn down the outside of that shaft in situ to a sufficiently accurate degree of roundness to run a die down it by using a die grinder on it with the chain off and the engine running in gear so the shaft is rotating. That would be silly... Thinking I know people who'd do it. Then again, I know someone who skimmed their rear brake drum by running the bike in gear on the mainstand having first glued emery paper to an old set of brake shoes and giving the adjuster nut a 1/4 turn every time it went quiet.
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Sload
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Wouldn't the "cheapest and easiest solution" be to weld the nut back on?


Why the heck not, was so successful the first time around Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vracktal wrote:

Also worth considering - the sprocket and gearbox shaft get pretty hot at motorway speeds, might find using this method ends up with the bolt permanently seizing in the hole you drill. Confused


Other bikes can and do use a bolt rather than a nut in that situation. My VFR750 being one example.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Vracktal wrote:

Also worth considering - the sprocket and gearbox shaft get pretty hot at motorway speeds, might find using this method ends up with the bolt permanently seizing in the hole you drill. Confused


Other bikes can and do use a bolt rather than a nut in that situation. My VFR750 being one example.


Some even use a C clip

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Sprocket%20Change/17TMounted.jpg
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

C-clip is a viable option. Cutting the groove would be a heck of an exercise but I reckon it's doable with a jig.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Wouldn't the "cheapest and easiest solution" be to weld the nut back on?


Hence the reason someone has already gone down that route!

...But if the OP does I'd recommend replacing that sprocket because it's past it's best.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 04 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, don't know about you lot, but if I were keeping the bike, I'd do as I suggested and approach Yamaha first. Any kind of drilling, grooving the shaft for clips etc has got to be a second choice to a replacement shaft and nut gratis on Yamaha?

It has been successful in past cases. Whether or not they would still do it now, I don't know, but what you got to lose by asking? It's a problem well known to Yamaha.
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