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| jtclark93 |
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 jtclark93 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 May 2015 Karma :   
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| temeluchus |
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 temeluchus World Chat Champion

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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 06:03 - 10 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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I seem to recall that there's a common issue with the starter clutch on these; think the starter mech engages the crank on the same side/gears as the water pump, and when a seal goes, they gum up, or something of that ilk that may be worth chasing better info on.
however, usual suspects are, the battery; starter is the single highest load device in the electrical system & can flatten a good fully charged new battery in about ten minutes. A tired battery wont have the charge in it to power the starter; might have the volts, but not the amps in it; even if it'll light up lights and stuff, and course, once engine running, devices get power from generator, not battery. Solenoid; personally I think they are blamed far more than is true; but yours clicks, so must be actuating, but that just throws contact accross two terminals; they may be shitted up and not conducting.. some older honda solenoids are quite 'nice' screwed together and have a thick brass contact plate you can get at and sand/file to get good contact back... however.. if the plate is black and pitted, often a sign that its actually the starter motor that's the main problem, drawing a higher current than it should; two causes; first is crapped up contacts inside. There's two carbon brushes that run on a ring of brass contacts; as the carbon wears they fill with dust, and the contacts start start going shitty, meanwhile the bushes and reduction gear get a bit sticky, so you get a higher drag on the thing making it draw more current, and that thins the braid contact leads to the brushes... AND you have the potential for that sticky gummed or jammed starter clutch....
Start at the battery, and work down stream to the starter, pulling stuff apart, cleaning and lubing... if you strip the starter, fit new brushes, they ought be about £10 from DSS.
Of course... could be something as simple as a bad earth on the battery or between engine and frame/battery.... ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| bugeye_bob |
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 bugeye_bob World Chat Champion

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| jtclark93 |
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 jtclark93 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 21 May 2015 Karma :   
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| Taught2BCauti... |
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 Taught2BCauti... World Chat Champion

Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:47 - 10 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Looks like it might have something to do with it, but it is likely that a fault with the starter motor or solenoid has caused the wire to burn like that, rather than the burnt wire has caused the fault.
Is that the wire that goes to the starter solenoid?
You need to check that you are getting a voltage reading on the starter solenoid when you press the start button (one of the smaller terminals), then check that the starter solenoid is working properly, and that when it does, you get volts at the starter motor.
The starter normally earths itself through the engine, so check you have a good earth between engine, battery and frame.
Find the fault before repairing the burnt wire, and/or the connector block. ____________________ Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
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| Aceslock |
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 Aceslock Spanner Monkey

Joined: 12 Dec 2014 Karma :     
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 Posted: 09:53 - 10 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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I had a similar issue with my Thundercat when i first had it. Went out for a ride, stopped at a scenic location for some pics, jumped back on and ......... nothing! just the clicking sound, managed to bump it & rode 35 odd miles home to investigate.....
The only thing i found was the battery terminals were not tight enough (have had the same issue on a car previously) so that the starter is not getting enough voltage. Haven't had an issue since  ____________________ Previous Bike: Skyjet SJ27
Sold: Yamaha YZF 600 R Thundercat. Sold: ZX636R
Current bike: R1 14B (Beast) |
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| jtclark93 |
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 jtclark93 L Plate Warrior
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| jeddy11 |
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 jeddy11 Traffic Copper

Joined: 06 Jul 2012 Karma :  
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 17:33 - 10 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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| jtclark93 wrote: | I found the probLem, is this the CDI unit?
Whatever it is it had fallen onto the chain somehow, what prt is it so I can replace? |
That looks like a relay. I doubt that it's the fault of your starter issue, though. That will probably switch a 10 or 15A supply to something like the lights when the ignition is on.
Starter has effof thick, as in 8mm diameter copper cable from the battery to the starter, with a 'solenoid' or heavy duty relay in it, to make the circuit when you press the start button.
Fact you say you hear it 'click' suggests that the low-amp supply to that solenoid is working fine, and even that the solenoid is actuating when it gets power.. SO... your problem is either that once the solenopid is actuated, the battery just doesn't have enough charge in it to turn the starter, or it has charge, but cant get through the solenoid, or when it gets to the starter, there's no-where else to go... bad contact or earth, or the brushes in the starter have gone, or the windings inside it, OR there is some-where for the current to go... but something is jammed so it cant turn.
Have you checked the battery?
Volts, engine 'off'?
Have you checked the electrolyte level in the battery?
Next test, is a simplified 'drop-test' or charge capacity one; charge the battery up on a battery charger until its definitely 'full'.. put it back on the bike, and turn the headlamps on, and see how long it takles until they 'dim'. It'll be something like a 9Ah battery, and the head-lamp, tail and idiot lamps will draw about 5A. If the battery is 'good' then the battery should keep them brightly lit for about two hours.... if the lights dim in under an hour, good change you need a new battery.
(Could simply be that a fully charged battery WILL turn your starter, and the 'problem' is merely that you have taken out more charge than the generator has put back; quite common, if the bike does short hops, with frequent starts, and you leave the lights always on; can also be exacerbated if the engines getting a bit tired, needs a new spark-plug or damn good service, or even a rebore, and takes more time on the starter motor to 'catch')
But THAT is where you ought to be starting; battery first, then with the simple/obvious, looking at the thick starter motor supply cable, and eliminating ALL the thin equipment wiring, by 'bridging' the solenoid contacts to see if that's whats stopping current get through, then looking at the thick earth straps between engine and frame and frame and battery.
All those thin wires, you are looking at are low current equipment and there's only ONE of them, that puts low current volts onto the solenoid that will effect your starter not turning.. and since you say you can hear the solenoid 'click' that one, we have to assume, is fine. so why keep looking at anything and everything that is NOT a part of the starter system? You may find other issues, sure.. but probably wont solve this one! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 10 years, 350 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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