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Kawasaki ER6(ninja 650) 2013 - Battery not charging?

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Wadge
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Joined: 16 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 16 Jul 2015    Post subject: Kawasaki ER6(ninja 650) 2013 - Battery not charging? Reply with quote

Hi. The battery keeps going flat on my ER6. I usually put it on an optimiser but have forgotten to do so recently and it ran flat the other day when I was out and I stopped for fuel, assistance came out and it jump started immediately.

What I want to know is there any way I can test if it is the battery that isn't accepting the charge or if its the regulator rectifier/alternator or whatever else?

When the assistance guy was checking it he had the multi meter on the battery terminals and when he revved the engine the voltage was dropping, he said it should be going up. Thanks in advance.
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davebike
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PostPosted: 07:13 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Charge battery
Start bike
use good multi meter to check voltage across battery at:-

Idle 12/13v
revving at running speed 4/6k revs 14/14.8 v


higher idle volts suspect battery poor (high resistance )
no or poor increase in volts is charging problem

If bike has a charging problem after repair a new battery is a very good idea as using a bike battery deep cycle i.e. using bike with faulty charging system by charging up the battery as running may well dammage the battery
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Re: Kawasaki ER6(ninja 650) 2013 - Battery not charging? Reply with quote

If the voltage across the terminals is low with the engine running then either the reg/reg is hosed, or the stator isn't producing voltage, or that there's a problem with the wiring.

Unplug the reg/rec and have a look at the contacts. Are any of them burned or damaged? After that, you'll need to buy a multimeter yourself to diagnose it. £5 gets you a usable one. Don't just start replacing parts randomly in the hope you'll fix it, that can get expensive.

Hang on, if it's within the 2 year warranty, it's Kawasaki's problem. Don't mess with it.

If it's out of warranty, it should still be "durable" for 6 years. Batteries are arguably consumables. Stators and reg/recs are not (not even on Hondas). You don't ask, you don't get.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

3 yellow wires from the stator - AC around 60v when running.
Battery terminals - DC above 12v on its own; DC around 13.5v at idle (definitely above 12v).

1, Stator giving AC? - CHECK
2, Getting DC after the REC- CHECK
3, Getting DC 12+v after the REG - CHECK
4, Battery holding the charge - CHECK

The last thing to check is the wiring, but I don't think that would be the problem, speaking of a 2 years old motorcycle made in Japan. Damaged wiring causes short circuits. Be careful, especially with the 3 yellow wires and their connector to the rest of the bike. People tend to not give a feck about it, let the oxidation build up on it, which then burnes their connector and stator.

Anyway, if it's under warranty, don't touch a thing. Thumbs Up
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Wadge
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the ideas, got a couple of things to try there.

I have a multimeter, not entirely sure what setting to use it on, could someone tell me? It's this one.

https://i.imgur.com/5ZxS4H4.jpg

It's out of warranty unfortunately, I may go in and ask before I buy anything but for now I'll have a look myself.
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Wadge
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just been out with the multimeter.

I think the results are a bit skewed as the bike has been on an optimiser since I got in from work so the battery had trickled up to 14v.

Engine off: 14v
Pressing ignition: Dropped to about 8/9v but started immediately
Idle: 14v
Revving 4-6k: 13.5v

With the ignition turned on but with the engine off(lights/dash on etc) the battery was just losing power sat there... I know it will, obviously. But seemed quite fast? It was dropping .01v every second at least, is this normal?
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery shouldn't drop down so much when starting it.

I have had exactly this and it was the battery.

I'll go outside and try my er6 and come back and post.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's your battery, mine dropped to about 10.89 when cranking.

About 14.3 whilst revving
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grr666
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll keep an eye on mine then as it's the same age although it's started keenly every single time so far.
2 years is not much of a lifespan for a battery though. It took 7 years before the one on my car needed replacing.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Batteries go if you don't look after them.

I take mine out of the bike and bring inside in winter. But still place them on an Optimate once a month.

Even at this time of year if the bike isn't run for a week I'll pop it on for a night.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's my point, I haven't ever done anything to mine except disconnect it once to hard wire in some terminals for my Garmin.
I only ride for fun and have been unexpectedly pretty busy this year, so have only found a few opportunities
for a rideout. It's never been charged since buying the bike. I don't own a bike battery charger and my
car one would probably fry it as it's for 1800cc vehicles or above according to the front of it. I tried
to charge a neighbours flat 1.2 Corsa battery with it a few weeks back and nigh on boiled the thing in just
8 hours on the slow charge setting. They had to buy a new one. Embarassed
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Wadge
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 18 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawakid wrote:
It's your battery, mine dropped to about 10.89 when cranking.

About 14.3 whilst revving


Cheers, do you know what battery you bought to replace it?
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grr666
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 18 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.tayna.co.uk/Kawasaki-ER6-F-N-06-650-cc-Motorcycle-Batteries-D14384.html

I've used Tayna about 6 times over the years. Always competitive and excellent packing and despatch.
Usually arrives next day if you order in the AM.
Out of that lot I'd probably buy the Varta one.
Have a Varta on both my cars, good batteries.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 18 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jewlio Iglesias wrote:
The ER6 is not a Ninja.


I think it is in the States.
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Val
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 19 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wadge wrote:
Just been out with the multimeter.

I think the results are a bit skewed as the bike has been on an optimiser since I got in from work so the battery had trickled up to 14v.

Engine off: 14v
Pressing ignition: Dropped to about 8/9v but started immediately
Idle: 14v
Revving 4-6k: 13.5v

With the ignition turned on but with the engine off(lights/dash on etc) the battery was just losing power sat there... I know it will, obviously. But seemed quite fast? It was dropping .01v every second at least, is this normal?


If it drops under 9.5V wheb starting the battery is bad.

You can test the battery by fully charging it, than leave it for 1 hour than measure the voltage it should be above 12.5V

Having said that in most cases the RR is the problem so do the full tests before you spend any money on battery.

The full troubleshouting guide is here:

www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9730
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Wadge
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 19 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jewlio Iglesias wrote:
The ER6 is not a Ninja.


My sincerest apologies.
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