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| SopskiBot |
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 SopskiBot L Plate Warrior
Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 04:24 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: The age old question! Chinese vs Japanese |
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Hi guys, long time lurker here.
I've been riding 50cc scooters on and off for the past 6 years or so, quite happy to just zip around town and get to work.
I've finally seen the light and am looking to get my first 125 motorbike. I'm really torn between a brand new Lexmoto Arizona or a new / 2nd hand Yamaha YBR Custom. Now, I know you're thinking it's a no-brainer, right?
Well, that's what I thought BUT, here's the thing. I went to the dealer yesterday and sat on a YBR custom. It's a lovely bike, felt solid in my hands, but I could only just tip toe (well maybe an inch of my foot, with both feet down).
I was able to flat foot on the Arizona, which obviously is a massive plus for me (I also think it looks a little nicer!)
Now, the main reason I am going for a Custom Cruiser is because I am tiny. I'm literally 5ft1, inside leg approx. 29" and I want to feel comfortable on the bike.
I have read a lot of advice saying "don't buy chinese, don't buy new, save for your test!" I do have plans to take my test eventually though it will be on a 125. I have zero plans right now to get anything bigger, mainly because a) my height and b) Bike weight (like I said, tiny!)
I also want to build experience first and if I'm honest, speed isn't really an issue for me, keeping up with traffic is the minimum but I'm a 25 year old female who really has no interest in "ragging" my bike for the sake of it.
I have to say I am leaning torwards the Yamaha (mainly because 0% finance) but I'm just worried about the height and if I spend £3k on a bike I ultimately won't feel comfortable on. Also, when trying with boots, was pretty hard to slip my foot under the gear lever. I'm not sure if that is something that can be adjusted or whether I'm just being silly.
So there you have it, do I go for quality over feeling just that more comfortable?
Tl;DR - Yamaha YBR Custom vs Lexmoto Arizona, Quality vs Comfort (Need lowest seat height as am a shortarse!) |
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| MaybeGuy |
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 MaybeGuy Super Spammer

Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Karma :     
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 Posted: 05:42 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Hardly an "age old question", more a case of some idiot asks which is better, and gets told.
You are that idiot.
An idiot who's already done the research, got the answers, yet still asks. ____________________ Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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 SopskiBot L Plate Warrior
Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Karma :  
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 06:44 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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You don't buy a bike to sit 'on'
You buy a bike to RIDE
Issue shouldn't be about how comfy you are straddling it in the show-room, but how comfy you are on it, when doing 40mph up the road,,, feet on the pegs, hands on the bars, trying to tip it into a round-about.
NOW... the Lexmoto Arizona AFAIK is a generic Chinese 'copy-part' cruiser, built around the Copy Honda CM125 Rebel, frame, with a splay-port copy-CG engione, and then dressed with lots of more Cruisery accessories and cycle parts... and whiule it might have a low seat height, that makes you 'feel' comfy when you are stradling it in the show-room.. ON THE ROAD, you are likely to start finding where the recipe is less helpful to your stature.. as my O/H did with her chinky Rebel Replica.... foreward control foot-pegs, mean your legs likely to be stretched from the seat to reach gear and brake levers... she struggled to reach and put pressure on the back brake pedal... while high wide 'ape-hanger' bars, meant that to keep hold of the handle-bars when using more steering lock, she had to lean forwards and the 'wrong' way to leaning the bike, which convinced her it 'handled horribly' and she could barely do CBT manouvers on it, let alone Mod1 ones...
In short.. for short, cruisers often 'fool' with that low bum to floor dimension....
and this 'idea' you have that you 'need' that low seat and to be able to flat-foot, both sides the bike, to be 'in control', is taking you down an alley towards buying a bike that is likely, in use to offer you LESS control and confidence and make it more difficult for you to do test manouver's not easier...
But, hey, they are SHINY... and Ladies do seem to value this aesthetic.... so I will ask, how much of it is actually trying to find reasons to 'justify buying shiny chrome bling that you think LOOKs more the part, over the common sense of resale values, ease of maintenence, etc etc etc?
I think you'd be much better off with 2nd Hand YBR, even the regular one, both on comfort, control, upkeep and cash.... if you know enough to live hapily with a Chineese bike, you probably wouldn't buy one.... if NOT, well its your dollar... and learning has a price... the Arizona could teach you a lot.. but I suspect by bad example rather than good... ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
Last edited by Teflon-Mike on 07:55 - 23 Jul 2015; edited 2 times in total |
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| RhynoCZ |
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 RhynoCZ Super Spammer

Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Karma :     
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 Posted: 06:48 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Use your money to buy a used Japanese motorcycle.  ____________________ '87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
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| delsol |
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 delsol World Chat Champion

Joined: 12 Apr 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 07:16 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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 SopskiBot L Plate Warrior
Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 07:41 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | You don't buy a bike to sit 'on'
You buy a bike to RIDE
Issue shouldn't be about how comfy you are straddling it in the show-room, but how comfy you are on it, when doing 40mph up the road,,, feet on the pegs, hands on the bars, trying to tip it into a round-about. |
You make a good point. I did enquire about Test rides, no chance at the Dealership unfortunately. (Is that normal for a Yamaha dealer?)
Are you saying a Custom Cruiser is not good for handling etc? As everything I've read is to the contrary. Low Centre of Gravity, big turning circle.
| Teflon-Mike wrote: | how much of it is actually trying to find reasons to 'justify buying shiny chrome bling that you think LOOKs more the part, over the common sense of resale values, ease of maintenence, etc etc etc? |
Not at all. I did my research and know Chinese bikes need way more maintenence. I know the resale value of a YBR custom (having looked at a 2nd hand one last week)
| Teflon-Mike wrote: | I think you'd be much better off with 2nd Hand YBR, even the regular one, both on comfort, control, upkeep and cash.... |
I tried the regular YBR, whilst cheaper, it's similar in size to the Honda CBF that I rode at the CBT place and that was too high for me to feel comfortable. Yes, it was fine riding but coming to a stop at Traffic Lights/roundabout I did not feel in control at all. Though actually looking at the figures the YBR is 3kg lighter than its custom brother....
Thanks for the advice guys. I know a lot of you are saying go 2nd hand Yamaha/Japanese. I was thinking for the 2 year warranty and 0% finance on a new machine would be better in the long run? |
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| The Shaggy D.A. |
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 The Shaggy D.A. Super Spammer

Joined: 12 Sep 2008 Karma :  
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 Posted: 08:19 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Someone's got to buy the new bikes to load the second hand market
I'm 5'7" with an inside leg of 29" (and an arm reach of 6' - yes, mostly orangutan) so although you only need to tiptoe a bike with one foot in order to ride it, I do understand the confidence flat footing a bike can bring. The main problem is that if you stick with that you'll soon convince yourself that you NEED to be able to flat foot it - unless you push the envelope you'll always be unable to break through that aspect.
Since you've been on 50cc bikes for 6 years, it sounds like you'd stick with a 125 for a while. I'd go for the new YBR Custom (gear levers are adjustable), and maybe get a pair of Daytona Ladystars, which drops the seat height of any bike by an inch
[edit] https://www.moto24.co.uk/daytona-boots-lady-pilot-gtx.html - Lady Pilot - cheaper than Lady Star  ____________________ Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5 |
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| The Shaggy D.A. |
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 The Shaggy D.A. Super Spammer

Joined: 12 Sep 2008 Karma :  
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 Posted: 08:36 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Or just get the boots and go try out other bikes you haven't looked at yet because you thought you were too short  ____________________ Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5 |
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| azra3l |
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 azra3l Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 22 Apr 2013 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:01 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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https://imgur.com//a/SmbV9
Why not get one of these?
Suzuki Intruder vl125. You can pick one up for about 1300 quid. It's a proper v-twin, suprisngly quick and I put 12000 miles on mine over two years and still sold it for way more than I paid for it.. |
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:43 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: Re: The age old question! Chinese vs Japanese |
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Hang on, the Yamaha is a Chinese made Jianshe with flaky chromework, it's not a no-brainer.
Gear shift will be adjustable, no worries on that.
I see Tef has Teffed. If it was that cruisers = wank then I'd have to agree.
Thing is, you're not going to know until you've tried one. You can sell bikes as well as buy them, but it'll be easier if you buy cheap and not on finance. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:47 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Note I meant to add to original message.. (just had to take O/H to an appointment):- Remember, your CBT and the 'safety-position'.. on the road, you DONT sit straddling the thing both feet flat to the floor EVER.. you have feet on the pegs, when moving, and only ONE foot, the left one, on the floor when stopped, THAT is the only one you need to flat-foot.. other ought to be on the foot-rest covering the back brake.. aka the 'safety-position' taught on CBT... so being able to flat-foot both sides is NOT something that's of any real 'use' to you... except perhaps to 'paddle' the thing about.. which you shouldn't do either.. need to moove it without 'driving'.. get OFF it, do what you were toght on CBT; stand next to it, grab bars and or grab rail, both feet on the floor, bum off the bike, and MOVE it... it's actually often easier, certainly 'safer' and often quicker any-way.. so STILL being able to straddle & flat-foot, means little. It really is something that just gives you false sense of security.
| SopskiBot wrote: | You make a good point. I did enquire about Test rides, no chance at the Dealership unfortunately. (Is that normal for a Yamaha dealer?). |
It's not un-usual for ANY-ONE to not offer test rides, even more so for Learner-Bikes... I mean, would YOU let some-one who hasn't passed thier test ride off on YOUR bike? (I probably would actually, but I'mm odd, as every-one will tell you!) But, yeah, dealers tend not to do it; some do, but tends to be on a credit-card swipe for an insurance indemnity, if you have held a full licence over two years, and and whatever else they want to require; and them the bikes they might have demonstrators of, are often only the ones they struggle to shift and the importers have given them am incentive to register one..
| SopskiBot wrote: | Are you saying a Custom Cruiser is not good for handling etc? As everything I've read is to the contrary. Low Centre of Gravity, big turning circle. |
No, Custom Cruisers handle like pigs! - Actually, I used to have to handle pigs when I was a kid and it was all hands on deck on t'farm.. Pigs handle a LOT better!
I dont know WHAT you have been reading, but, a BIG turning circle is NOT helpful.. think about it... you want to do tests on the thing, that means weaving through close spaced cones on the Mod-1 course... you want a SMALL turning circle, and a short wheel-base, so that it will turn tight to go through the cones and the back end doesn't trailer like a mac-truck and clip the cones after you have put the front through!
Then there is the 'arm-chair' riding position, feet out, lay-back, and high wide handlebars reaching back to you.. that means that to get a lot of steering lock, you have to move the handle-bar grips a long way to get the same angle of wheel turn... which with a long wheel-base and raked out 'chopperesque' forks, doesn't give you so much steering, to start with, so the riding position, and as O/H struggled for a little lady with shorter arms even more so, doesn't give you 'command' sat up close over the handlebars, to be able to shift them as far, as easily to make the thing turn...
The whole laid back 'style' of a chopper/cruiser is for American open-roads 'cruising'... straight line and tilt into turns with least effort.. which is all well and good if you are on a long straight, open american road with few corners and those there may be wide and sweeping... its almost the WORST ergonomics / geometry for good, precise and easy 'control'!
Low Center of Gravity? So what? that's just cos your bums been dumped close to the floor... to do that, so has everything else, like the engine, exhaust, foot-pegs! Means that you cant lean the damn thing over so far before things start scraping on tarmac... AND that steering geometry, and perverse and restrictive handlebar erganomics means that if you cant turn the bars to steer you have to 'tilt to turn'.. but, getting the CofG down low, you ent got much of THAT available either!!
Comfy? well, yeah.. they are often given nice plush.. or shall we simply say 'soft' suspension, so that they absorb road bumps nicely.... well, they might, If the soft suspension had any travel to absorb the bumps.... getting the bike down low and raked back, the back suspension often has very restricted travel... so it doesn't absorb bigger bumps that well, while the soft springs mean the thing wallows around on it, like a blamange, rather than being taught and precise...
they just are NOT good learner bikes. EVERYTHING about cruisers is designed for 'Cruising' straight, open road, 'easy' riding, with a big lusty engine, between your legs that doesn't need to be revved or worked.. which a Learner-Legal cruiserette just doesn't have! ~so they dont even work as 'cruisers' particularly well, IF you don't need to try and make one get through Mod-1 gym-khana course!
Don't get me wrong, I am not inherently anti-cruiser... they have as much place in vanity biking as other genre's like vanity sports bikes or vanity dirt bikes or vanity adventure bikes.... But for YOU, as a learner.. not a great choice; as a shorter rider, even less, and as some-one planning on taking tests on one, NO CHANCE.. its just making life harder for yourself for bog all good reason.
Honestly, I used to teach CBT, and have put many many types and styles of bike through CBT cones... I would rather try putting an enormouse Honda CBR1100RR Super-Blackbird through them, or a huge ST1100 Pan European tourer, with panniers through them, or EVEN, a VESPA T5 Scooter (actually incredibly nimble and one of the better bikes for the job, ironically.. I was just loath to risk what little man-points I have left, being seen getting on the thing!) , than a 125 Cruiser... SERIOUSLY they are THAT horrible! And less suited to the job you want the thing to do.
| SopskiBot wrote: | I did my research and know Chinese bikes need way more maintenence. I know the resale value of a YBR custom (having looked at a 2nd hand one last week) |
Then you'll know that actually, the YBR is made in china too then...
To be as fair to the chinks as I can be... it's not just the 'potential' extra maintenance that makes them less useful... bikes in general need a fairly large amount of care and maintenance, and if they get it, even the cheaper chinks can be reletively 'reliable'... one is a function of the other, basically; trouble is Learners even more than most, tend to be less diligent about this, and the chinky bikes are simply that much less tolerant of not being well maintained.. I could, and have lived with one; O/H's AJS Raptor, Rebel copy Cruiserette, and as one of the more expensive Chinks, it was actually 'quite good' and it actually impresed me with how little maintenence it demanded and just how dependable the thing was... what DIDN'T impress me was that it just lacked 'oomph'... OK, I wasn't expecting great things from it, to start with compared to one of my big bikes, but still... O/H grumbled about how 'slow' it was, and not just top speed, that took a heck of a lot of thrashing the knackers off it to coax it over an indicated 50mph... but how 'lively' it wasn't... like trying to make a 'brisk' exit from a junction into traffic... lack of power and as much weight as the 750 she rides now meant it just DIDN'T GO!...
Again, another negative for the Cruiserette styling of a learner bike... when you are that bit less confident and likely to be sat waiting for a gap, when you DO decide to go for one, you can REALLY use that bit of poke to make it happen, and with so much weight and so little power, these things just wont! Been thirty seven years since I first rode a powered two-wheeler 'solo', and even as an experienced rider and an exponent of 'predictive riding'; looking ahead, keeping it all 'smooth' and keeping average speed high by not slowing down unnecessarily, rather than riding 'reactively', point-and-squirt-and-brake, as most learners are likely to do.. it was not easy to what they call 'make progress' on the damn thing!
The Genuine Honda Rebel, is a genuine 65mph motorcycle, still on the porky side, but, has just that little added 'oomph'. Still wouldn't be my top choice of learner bike, less little-lady-learner bike, BUT, its another sacrifice for buying cheaper chink....
Resale? You know that issue; offset some by the lower buy-price, but still. They don't tend to hold as much of thier value, and they do tend to be harder to sell on. And if you are expecting to trade with dealers? Yeah! Very happy to flog you one, but not MANY will take them in PX after... and if they do, they are likely to cream even more off the deal than they normally do!
But living with the things? Its the support. O/H had hers for just over two years, three insurance policy renewals... each time, puting the details into the quote sites, and being told "Sorry we cannot find your motorcycle listed in our data-base - Please call our under-writers on #######".... then calling them and another thing worth noting, BTW, being treated as a 'Stooooopid WOMAN!"... and patronised as if she couldn't POSSIBLY know what her own motorbike was! Same when she need spares for it, like a chain and sprocket kit! Fobbed off, with "Well can you get your boyfreind to have a look at it and tell us the frame number"....
She still gets that, now, actually; She built her own 125 from a bare frame to 'learn mechanics' to try and get past this 'woman thing' of being patronised and fobbed off the whole while; did her tests on it, has had a full licence almost three years, and now has a 750 Moto-Guzzi.. she was trying to order a carburettor float valve the other day, and handed me the telephone! "He wants to talk to you!" She said... "I've had enough of him, he wont listen to me.. I even gave him the part number!" Which is a small warning of what to expect...
But, buying bits for a 'main-stream' motorcycle, in the catalogues, and clued up enough to actually know manufacturers part numbers for the bit she needs.. still getting treated like a know-nothing-woman...
Now ramp that 'problem', by having a bike NOT in the catalogues, and NOT being quite so clued up, as to whats what, and like her, you are likely to fall into the trap where you get fobbed off, or taken for a ride, and NOT know how to to know, or what to do to sort it.
As a learner, and worse as a woman, you are struggling from behind to get 'good service' from bike blokes.... even bloke learners can struggle and get frustrated by trying to live with a chink, so its likely to be even worse for you as a lady-rider, and its a 'hassle' you just DONt have to buy for yourself.. buy a Jap, PLAY the dozy-woman and turn it around to work FOR you, rather than against, cos if its in the catalogue, and 'easy' for them to find, they'll do the leg-work to 'sort you out' and feel like the gallant knight, in the doing.
| SopskiBot wrote: | I tried the regular YBR, whilst cheaper, it's similar in size to the Honda CBF that I rode at the CBT place and that was too high for me to feel comfortable. Yes, it was fine riding but coming to a stop at Traffic Lights/roundabout I did not feel in control at all. Though actually looking at the figures the YBR is 3kg lighter than its custom brother.... |
Most folk find the YBR a little bit smaller than the CBF, I think, but it is down to the erganomics...
BUT you rode a School-Bike, and I can almost garantee that it wasn't 'set up' for you... they ought to have mentioned it in the course actually, how when you get in a car, you adjust the seat so you can reach the pedals and tilt it so you can see through the windows... and how on a motorbike, you might not be able to turn a couple of knobs to move the seat, you can still 'adjust' stuff to suit you better, moving the handlebars forwards and back in the clamps, rotating the levers around them to fall where your hands do, adjusting the middle position of the gear and brake pedals to where's most comfy for you.... AND setting the suspension to your weight...
this was PROBABLY not done for you on the school bike, just for the day, as it can take a lot of tinkering time, untightening and tightening stuff with spanners to get it 'right' for you... BUT can and SHOULD be done on your own bike....
and if there isn't enough 'adjustment' in whats there, you can make bigger adaptations changing bits...
On the O/H's cruiserette, after I went out with her and followed her while riding, watching what she was doing, and spotted that to turn tighter turns, like round-abouts, she had to lean out from the bend to keep her hand on the handlebar... I changed the handlebars! fitted ones that were lower and pulled back more, and chopped a couple of inches of each end, so that the bike 'fitted' her.... we've done a similar thing with her Moto-Guzzi, fitting spacers to actually lift the handle-bars so they can be rolled back further, to sit closer to her over the petrol tank.. and the thing has been 'lowered', in this case by dropping the fork clamps lower down the fork legs, so she can more easily hold the bike up, in the 'Safety Position' with less lean to the stand-side.
So DON'T be put off, or buy hassles, less make problems to solve 'non' problems.....
If you rode the CBF on CBT, and didn't struggle TOO much with it... then I would suggest that you are likely to get on all-right with a regular YBR.. and even the YBR custom might not be helping you much.
YBR Custom is actually NOT too bad as a learner-bike, its only very mildly cruiserified, mainly be shorter rear shocks and a stepped seat; the erganomics and geometry haven't been SO compromised as to make it all that horrible to weave through CBT or Mod1 cones... But.. If you can get on with the regular version, that is more common, and tends to hold its 2nd hand value a tad better and sell on a little easier? Unless you particularly like the styling, I'd say stick with the regulation model... New or Used, your call.. pro's and cons either way, but used tends to be cheaper... and 3-4years old, with a fresh MOT cert tends to be the sweet-spot for best VFM. New is nicer though, and finance; well appealing, but I try and avoid it. If I cant pay cash, I cant afford it!
It's not far off, 'fit' to start with, and an afternoon, spent setting the suspension to the lowest pre-load setting; tweeking handlebars and levers to fall to hand, and then some miles in the saddle, finding your 'seat' and getting used to holding it up in the safety position, its LIKELY your confidence will grow, and in NOT a lot of time, be sitting on a 650cc school DAS bike, wondering what you were ever 'worried' about, IF you remember ever worrying at all!
Remember, you need best control when you are moving! Feet on the pegs! ALL you have to worry about when stopped is not falling over! Its the only thing the damn thing can do, isn't it! and you only need one leg to prop it up, and all that has to do is reach the floor, to do that! and you have already discovered, it does.. so its JUST confidence you need... NOT a 'special' bike!!
Don't sweat the small-stuff, keep your eye on the bigger picture, and favorite little mantra for you... "Stop Thinking - Start Riding"
Get on, get doing, and confidence and technique will grow, and solve a lot more than you ever will parusing sales catalogues! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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 nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord

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 Wednesday Biker Spanner Monkey
Joined: 11 Sep 2014 Karma :  
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 Posted: 17:58 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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I've said this in 3 or 4 other posts but I feel I have to warn others.
My girlfriend got a YBR custom and in 6 months it started to rust.After a year it looked rough.By 18 months when she traded it in, it looked a right dog.
We cleaned it and tried to look after it and it only did about 6k but I'd never buy one again.
Terrible monkey metal piece of crap for double what you can get a Chinese monkey metal piece of crap imo  |
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| delsol |
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 delsol World Chat Champion

Joined: 12 Apr 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 18:14 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Damn it, but I hope Tef keeps on writing, there is pretty much always something(s) of more than a little interest that comes out of his (sometimes ?) expanded posts, .
He is not the only person I would miss on here, but he is a bit of an institution on here.
There, I said it, and hard hat has been cinched down. |
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| stevo as b4 |
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 stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jul 2003 Karma :   
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| Pigeon |
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 Pigeon World Chat Champion

Joined: 27 Sep 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:03 - 23 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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£900 for a new "YBR Custom". It's basically the same bike, it's made by the same people using the same frame and a mildly modified engine (same casings).
I would not choose a new YBR over that if planning on keeping for 3 years. The depreciation on the chinese bike will be less than that of the YBR over the same period, it will rust the same.
If you don't want the hassle of registering the bike and insuring on a VIN, then you could buy an AJS Eco Custom. Again, it's basically the same bike, but you pay a premium for the name, dealer network etc.
I'd happily go with the Arizona and just accept that it will require a bit of cleaning and the parts will wear in half the time of a 90's jap bike.
But it is a bit of a leap of faith over a second hand 90's jap bike in many respects. But so is buying second hand.
Whatever you choose, you'll bloody love it compared to the 50
EDIT:
Also, the Lexmoto Valiant (effort) is the same as the Sinnis Retrostar and a bunch of others.
Similar to Tef's thoughts, the seat is a touch higher, but the stretch to the pegs non-existent, might be worth a look: |
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| Wednesday Biker |
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 Wednesday Biker Spanner Monkey
Joined: 11 Sep 2014 Karma :  
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| Chuffin Nora |
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 Chuffin Nora World Chat Champion
Joined: 02 Sep 2013 Karma :  
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| Taught2BCauti... |
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 Taught2BCauti... World Chat Champion

Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:51 - 25 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Would I be right in thinking that OP has been riding 50cc Scoots on a car licence, and hasn't actually done a CBT yet?
If so, I would suggest that she visits as many local CBT centres as possible, and tries sitting on as many different makes and models of 125's as possible, for size and fit, on the pretext of finding a suitable bike before booking a CBT.
Riding schools would probably choose makes and models that have a reasonably long life and low maintainance costs, rather than something that is known to fall apart after 12 months, so talk to them about their reasons for choosing the bikes that they have available for learners.
Alternatively, see if there are any 'Get On' schemes in the area, as they usually have a variety of newish machines that anyone can ride around a car park to get a feel for the different styles available. ____________________ Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu |
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| sutty86 |
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 sutty86 Trackday Trickster
Joined: 30 Jan 2015 Karma :  
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| SopskiBot |
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 SopskiBot L Plate Warrior
Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 05:25 - 28 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 43 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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