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| ELAXoraptor |
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ELAXoraptor
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 06 Aug 2015
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| Taught2BCauti... |
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Taught2BCauti...
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 Posted: 10:39 - 07 Aug 2015  Post subject: |
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I would start off by taking the spark plug out and having a look at the condition, to see if it is running rich or lean.
It's difficult to setup the carb correctly if the spark plug is bad - so change it if necessary, and don't forget to check the gap with a feeler gauge!
Also check for a dirty air filter, and air leaks between the carb and the engine.
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| mathewculver |
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mathewculver
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| Pol Anorl |
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Pol Anorl
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| unitynotsocri... |
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unitynotsocri...
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| Posted: 16:46 - 08 Aug 2015 Post subject: |
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As previous poster ,start with a good plug,then check carb needle is OK,no inlet airleaks or blocked jets,check petrol filter ,drain carb bowl and check float height.
Then check mixture screw on carb .Remember to wait at least ten seconds after turning mixture screw. I usually make sure engine is warm and set a higher tickover before adjusting mixture screw. To check engine mechanics,drain the oil.......checking sump plug and any gauze filter. If there's an engine prob there will be tiny bits of mettalic sludge on the drain plug.
On second hand bikes,especially small ones its normal for the previous dckhead\ monkey\ owner to mess about with carb settings,especially raising the slide needle and setting the mixture rich in the mistaken belief that more petrol in the mix means better performance,it usually does not on a small bike.......better throwing the plastics away to go faster.
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS |
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| mathewculver |
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mathewculver
Borekit Bruiser
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| Posted: 03:14 - 09 Aug 2015 Post subject: |
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My CBR600 was cutting out whilst riding unless I kept it revving , turned out that I had a short circuit in the connector between the rectifier and the battery which was draining the battery out straight through the frame, once I re wired it all up, the bike now runs perfecto |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 05:26 - 09 Aug 2015 Post subject: |
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| mathewculver wrote: | My CBR600 was cutting out whilst riding unless I kept it revving , turned out that I had a short circuit in the connector between the rectifier and the battery which was draining the battery out straight through the frame, once I re wired it all up, the bike now runs perfecto |
Yup, that was the fault on YOUR bike; you have an alternator that charges the battery. The spark-plugs get the electric to make the spark from the battery, timed by a box of tricks triggered off a crank sensor. so no power in battery.. no sparks. Unfortunately the OP's Lexmoto doesn't have the same sort of electrical system. Instead of an alternator that charges the battery and everything else taking its power from that.. he has a 'Magneto'.. a magnet on the flywheel wizzes round , and each time it passes a coil, it makes electric to make a spark.. thus both making the power and setting the timing... it's not quite that simple.. it can be, and is on my strimmer and some older bikes, but it's not much different on OP's Lexmoto, and unlike your CBR, his ignition system is independent of the battery, and totally 'self exited'.. so long as the crank is spinning, he should get sparks.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 06:03 - 09 Aug 2015 Post subject: Re: Lexmoto xtrs 125cc problem... |
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| ELAXoraptor wrote: | As soon as i started driving i have experienced some problems, the bike's engine was dieing off while driving with no reason and it was running badly in general, I've spoken with some friends and they proposed to change the carb which I did and the bike started to run properly but another problem occurred...
For some reason the engine slowly dies when I release the throttle and pull the clutch in fully wanting to stop. To stop this I constantly have to put a little rev on the engine so it wouldn't die which is a big problem since a cant break with the front brakes that way... this is a major problem for me since when I ride on higher speeds and the engine dies without me hearing that it did, and then if I put some throttle on the engine it kick starts which causes the back wheel to skid for a second... |
Do you turn the lights out to have sex?cos this sort of reasoning is 'fucking about in the dark'.. trying to diagnose a fault from skant symptoms, with random replacements and experiments, devoid of ANY logic just clouding the issues!
WHY the fuck did your mates tell you to change the carb? What did they think was wrong with teh carb? Why did they think that caused the symptoms you have?!
Symptoms do corrolate to a blocked idle-jet in the carb.. at low revs it wouldn't supply fuel so you'd have to keep reving it to kleep it alive.... a new carb might fix that.. B-U-T rather drastic when stripping and cleaning the blocked jet would probably have done the same....
B-U-T.. start at the beginning.. the VERY begging... poor running as described could be caused by MANY things.. a LOT of them, simply lack of maintenance!
Conking out when hot? and 'poor running'.. well, it could be that the engine is worn out, or been 'knackered' thrashed without oil, so that everything inside is 'loose' and slopping about, gaps that seal burning gasses to push piston down getting bigger as the engine gets hot and metal expands, so more and more pressure is wastes through the gaps, or shafts and hinges and things are able to tip in thier holes so that they sort of 'jam up'....
BUT, top of the hit list, AND the firstr thing to do before ANYTHING, is a full and thorough service...
- New spark-Plug
- Check the Tappet clearances
- Change the Oil
- Clean the Air-filter
- Clean the carburetor (the original one! The 'new' one might not even be for your bike or have the right jets for your bike in it, let alone have been adjusted for your bike before you bought it! So start BACK at the beginning with the one you still dont know was ACTUALLY faulty!)
- Oil & tension the drive chain
- Adjust the back brake
- check the tyre pressures
BUY the Haynes Book of chines four-stroke 125cc motorcycles.. it has a more detailed list of 'routine maintenance' in it.. do ALL of it, as none of it has probably ever been done before!
THIS 'base-lines' the issue; and gives you a known starting point to work from IF, and it is an 'IF' problems persist.. chances are, that working down the check-list; fitting a fresh plug, setting the tappet clerances, cleaning the carb and returning it to the 'base' settings in the book.... your 'Problems' will all go away! As if it isn't a completely knackered engine, it's likely to be simply a combination of things in the maintenence list that just haven't been done! LIKE the tappet clearances, which as the engine get hot, are getting so wide that the valves aren't opening, or so tight, they aren't shutting!
BUT, either way... ONCE you have done a full and thorough 'service'.. and as said the instructions are all in the Haynes book of Chinky-4T-125's.. there is ALSO a 'fault finding' guide.. which will tell you where to look next If anything does persist..
I mean... you have changed the carb.. for some seemingly random suggestion by a 'mate', and are now contemplating other, more random suggestions on the net, to start buggering about with the mixture settings and shit.... If the air-filter's not been cleaned, or the previouse owner has left his sandwiches to go moldy in the air-box, thinking its just a convenient 'storage compartment'... THEN you ent NEVER going to get the carburetor set up 'right' are you? NOR if you have a shitty old spark-plug with the wrong gap, covered in soot, and nibbled away at the edges of the electrode...
ANd dont just do the things on the list around the engine... do the lot, chain, brakes tyres, EVERYTHING.. if the back brake is badly adjusted it can 'drag' makes bike slow, makes motor work harder, so it gets hotter, and THAT can magnify any other 'fault' as well as be one in itself.... likewise the chain.. if its rusty and half siezed or not running straight, wont be helping and your symptoms could be compensating for it. Do the lot, by the book.
So, start at the beginning; get the book, do a service; eliminate as MANY possible problems and variables before you begin, and THEN work logically, from a known starting point.. IF the problems haven't magically gone away, just following the instructions in the book.
£20, and a little patience and 'logical' perseverance, and you'll get far more from it than prodding in the dark, asking random questions off random people, hoping to find a fix by voodoo and good luck!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Andy_Pagin |
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Andy_Pagin
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| Posted: 10:48 - 09 Aug 2015 Post subject: |
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I'd start with a full service, new plug, oil and filters (if any).
Then check idle speed is correct, preferably with a mechanic's rev counter since this will be more accurate that what's on the bike.
Then onwards it's a case of replace cheapest and most obvious bits first, start with the HT plug lead, then any other leads that look in any way 'iffy'.
I once had a Ford Fiesta that wouldn't charge the battery, it turned out that the pristine looking HT from the alternator to the battery had completely rusted away inside the insulation!
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| Mattyxl125r |
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Mattyxl125r
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Joined: 29 Sep 2015
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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| Posted: 08:18 - 29 Sep 2015 Post subject: |
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The best thing you can do with a Lexmoto XTR/S is to sell it to some other mug.
All we hear about them is problem after problem after problem. Every one I've seen on the road or for sale has been a shed. Rusted, seized, snapped, rotted, torn, worn: it's the only Chinese bike still being sold that I'd actively warn about.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 10 years, 340 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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