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Non bike related - Trailer Brakes?

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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Non bike related - Trailer Brakes? Reply with quote

Some of you may be aware that I bought a folding camper a few months ago, anyways we went away in it a few weeks back an the brakes seemed to be dragging

when we stopped i felt the wheels they were abit warm but nothing major

i fancy stripping the brakes anyways just to be sure etc...anyone ever worked on a trailer braking system?

im told they use a "one shot" nut to secure the drum onto the hub?
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

There must be lots of different systems on trailers, but I had one where the brake drums looked a lot like old Mini drums, with just 2 countersunk screws holding them on - and it slid over the wheel nut studs, leaving the hub attached.

Had another trailer where the brake drum and hub were all-in-one, with a central castellated nut and split pin holding it in place - the wheel nut studs came away with the drum.

I know the type of one-time nut you are talking about though, seen them on a caravan but not on a trailer - they have a nylon insert and you are not supposed to re-use them.

You can usually find replacements at caravan shops, or eBay.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the brakes had any kind of drag then the drums would be hot, not just a little warm!
Have you tried to jack up each side and spin the wheel by hand to see how they feel?

(Presuming that this isn't a noticed problem when reversing, which would indicate that you haven't been locking the hitch to prevent it braking the trailer when going backwards!)
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

supposedly its got funky brakes so they don't lock on as you reverse...It doesn seem to reverse ok an stuff

well the checking the wheels thing brings me onto another question

Do you reckon i could lift the thing up using its stabilizing legs, or stop being lazy an get a trolley jack underneath of it?
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J4mes
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What make/ model is the trailer, is there anything on the chassis or drawerbar or braking system itself to tell you who made the components?
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

err, will go an have a look.

I do know that its a Conway Cruiser 1996

will go an have a look on chassis

**Edit**

its got an Al-Ko hitch? would that mean its got Al-Ko brakes?


Last edited by mudcow007 on 21:12 - 11 Aug 2015; edited 1 time in total
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techsnap
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Caravanner here, so some advice:

No, certainly don't use the corner steadies to lift it up - they are just that, steadies, and you will likely buckle the chassis and/or damage the floor if you try to use them as jacks.

If it is based on an Al-Ko chassis (as many of these things seem to be) you can use a trolley or bottle jack under the axle tube where it meets the side runners.

Be careful taking the drums apart if it is an Al-Ko using the One Shot nuts - you need one hell of a torque wrench to do them up to the correct torque when you put it back together!
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whoresome!!

i think its an Al-Ko chassis as its got an Al-Ko hitch at least (90/S3)

So guess its fair to assume Al-Ko brakes?

i know a couple of HGV mechanics so im sure they will have some beefy torque doo dahs

cheers Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Korn.... Fackin PIKEYS are overrunning the forum.
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you take it to pieces, jack it up one side at a time and ascertain exactly what is/isn't going on with the brakes.

First of all they should be free spinning with no brakes applied, any major binding or dragging is not good. Next apply the handbrake, it should lock the drum so that you can't turn it by grappling it with your hands alone. If you are still able to turn it, it needs investigation. Also it is a good idea to test the overrun system, to do this you need to compress the coupling by some means - often using a ratchet strap to apply the overrun mechanism works well. Again if it doesn't fully lock the wheel, something is wrong in the drum.

If you work out what problems you may have before you strip it down, you will then know roughly if and what you are looking for inside the drums.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Before you take it to pieces, jack it up one side at a time and ascertain exactly what is/isn't going on with the brakes.

First of all they should be free spinning with no brakes applied, any major binding or dragging is not good. Next apply the handbrake, it should lock the drum so that you can't turn it by grappling it with your hands alone. If you are still able to turn it, it needs investigation. Also it is a good idea to test the overrun system, to do this you need to compress the coupling by some means - often using a ratchet strap to apply the overrun mechanism works well. Again if it doesn't fully lock the wheel, something is wrong in the drum.

If you work out what problems you may have before you strip it down, you will then know roughly if and what you are looking for inside the drums.


There might be a damper on the brake over-run not dampening so the brakes are 'dabbing' 'as she rolls'.

Loads of how-to-s on t' Internet.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 12 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers all will try an take a look at t'weekend Thumbs Up
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