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Lexmoto zsx help

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LazzurusMan
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 09 May 2015
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 23 Aug 2015    Post subject: Lexmoto zsx help Reply with quote

I'll start this off by stating that anything to do with chinese bikes and their inferiority will be ignored, I'm here looking for help and don't want to start a discussion about that.


The other day my zsx almost ran out of oil, my fault, I should have checked before leaving but she was fine about 5 hours beforehand when I left work. She started losing power so I pulled over and had some oil dropped to me so I could top her up. I got about 30 seconds down the road back home when the same thing happened but this time she nearly stalled and I nearly got thrown from the bike. I pulled over again and arranged a pick up. I then had her running in neutral at the roadside when she completely cut out. Since then she hasn't started. At first when I tried to start her again the starter motor could be heard moving slightly then stopping, but now I just get a click from the solenoid. I've tried bump starting her to no avail and really need this bike back on the road.

If anyone has had similar problems or can tell from what I've written what's wrong with the bike I would be extremely grateful if you could help in any way.
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cresad
Nova Slayer



Joined: 02 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 23 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Not had similar for a few years but it almost sounds like a partial seizure. Have you taken the plug out and checked for a, movement and b, compression ?

Adam
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 24 Aug 2015    Post subject: Re: Lexmoto zsx help Reply with quote

LazzurusMan wrote:
The other day my zsx almost ran out of oil [...] She started losing power

See, I suspect that this is barse ackwards.

Is the real story: bike lost power, pulled over, scratched head, pulled dipstick/looked at sight glass while the engine was hot, exclaimed "Gadzooks, must be out of oil!", slopped some more in and carried on?

How's the oil level now, with the engine cold?

It looks like you've got the pushrod CG copy-engine, is that right?

As above, plug out and have a look at the colour and condition.

Turn the engine by hand (i.e. put it in gear and turn the rear wheel, or if it's the CG copy-engine remove the cover in the middle of the LHS of the engine case and turn the nut that you'll find under it). Does it turn smoothly, or does it stick at any point?

When's the last time (if ever) that you've checked the valve clearances?

Was there any rattling or buzzing evidence before it lost power? Have you fiddled with it in any way?

What's the voltage across the battery terminals? Have you checked the battery cells to be sure that they're all full of electrolyte?

What happens if you short the solenoid terminals (with an insulated screwdriver)?

If you put your location in your profile, someone may be minded to show up and help.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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LazzurusMan
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 09 May 2015
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 24 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had the plug out and it looked okay, slightly brown where the threads are, and I tried moving the wheel in gear, no clutch while the plug was out, only a little bit of movement before it hits compression and wont move.

I also think you're right about the oil, I did check it at the roadside while the bike was hot and panicked when I saw there were only bubbles in the little window, but that then opens up more questions as to why it decided to lose power and nearly throw me off :/

I've never checked the valve clearance (wouldn't have a clue how) and when the connectors for the battery and starter motor were bridged all we got were some sparks, nothing in the starter motor moved. I've currently got the starter motor off and at least part of it moves.


If anyone wants to get in contact about physically taking a look and helping with the bike like Roger said then send me a text or call to 07956004939.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 24 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put your location in your profile and people can see where you are.

You seemed to say that the bike hit compression with the plug out. That isn't possible. If the engine won't turn over with the spark plug removed, you have a problem. The easy test is to remove the plug, put it in first, leave the clutch alone, and walk it along the road for a few yards. It should move with minimal resistance.

It is also possible that the whole oil thing is a red herring. There is usually a fair bit of oil below the level of the sight glass. If the oil had got low enough to cause damage, the oil light would have come on when the engine was running. You didn't mention this happening, so I'll assume the oil light never illuminated.

Remove the oil talk from the description, and you have explained a classic reg/rec failure. Reg/rec fails, so the battery isn't charging. Bike gradually loses power - or in the case of a 125, quickly loses power because you have so little in reserve - and stops. Leave it for half an hour, the battery recovers some charge, and you can start it again. Ride for 5 minutes, battery is flat again. Engine will not turn over because the battery is flat.

In this case, the diagnosis is to:
1. Charge the battery.
2. Check the voltage across the battery terminals with the bike running. You should be seeing 13-14V at tickover, rising to around 14.5V at 4k rpm. If you see more 12v, or the voltage falling at 4k rpm, reg/rec failure is likely.
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LazzurusMan
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 09 May 2015
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 28 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

She's seized. Wont move in any gear with plug out, also changes gear easier with clutch out, which worries me :/

Looking online I've seen I can potentially unsieze it, I just need to figure out how to get to certain parts of the engine. Also as far as I'm aware I have no light for my oil :/
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 28 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Put your location in your profile and people can see where you are.


Rogerborg wrote:
It looks like you've got the pushrod CG copy-engine, is that right?

____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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LazzurusMan
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 09 May 2015
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've taken her to a garage just to get a diagnostic, apparently she has ran with no oil and seized, they now want to charge me £380 for a new crankshaft, gaskets and a few other things to repair her.

Pretty sure I could get the parts a lot cheaper and fix it myself but as per the guy that called me never said exactly what had happened.
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NJD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

LazzurusMan wrote:
£380


FFS. I don't know how much realistically this job should cost but a brand new engine is £499.99 on CMPO seems more reasonable to get a brand new engine and have a complete spare engine for parts if you're thinking of actually investing that amount of money.

Phone up the shop and ask for a printed list of all the parts that need replacing along with the cost of them, like a job sheet and then go and collect your bike and that paper, pay them for their "labor" for the time they've spent looking at your bike and tell them you'll be in touch when you get the funds to fix your bike. Meanwhile in the real world your actually pricing up the cost of ordering the parts of the internet and finding out if a new engine or going it alone is the best option.

I'm not sure if by "garage" you mean any old garage or an actual bike shop but lets just take my example of getting a service done by a "bike shop/garage" recently. I got charged £7.99 for oil, I could buy an entire 1L bottle form CMPO for £7.49 and well we all know that you never really top the engine up with an entire 1L at any given time. I'm in the wrong business, really I am.
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That price isn't unreasonable given the amount of parts and work involved. There isn't a special rate for cheap bikes.

I'm not saying that you should pay it, but your choices are to pay up or tool up.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Papa Lazarou
Nova Slayer



Joined: 28 Aug 2015
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

£380 sounds reasonable.
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