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Welding an engine..

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Michelle L
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Yes something I have never done myself..
My question is , can I weld an engine with an arc welder ?.
I have a old arc welder or would I need to buy a mig welder ?.

I have a spare engine but one of the header bolts has been badly drilled out so I thought I would weld it and then re-drill ,, then put a fresh thread in it..
Its so badly drilled out I do not think a helicoil will do the trick ,, one of the guys did suggested it but I think its to bad to put a helicoil in it.

Thanks for your help guys Very Happy
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend in East London does aluminium 3 phase TIG welding which,as far as I know,is the only way to weld that material.He would be able to advise you on the best way to sort your situation Wink

His number is 07815-575371 and answers to the name of John Bull Thumbs Up

PS.He is a biker so knows what he is talking about Wink
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could always have a word with my Cylinder head chap Matt who welds heads for a day job.
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Michelle L
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi sickpup Fizzer..

Thanks for the advice , I was not sure how to weld aluminium , I tried welding it when I was in my young teens and it did not work.
But I wondered if your could get some special rods for the arc welder or weld it with a mig..

The reason I was asking now is because my husband does not like me spending to much money as Christmas is not far off , if it could be done with a mig welder I would have ordered one now..

I have heard of tig welding ,, thanks for the number fizzer , I have stored it in my phone , its always handy to know people that can do that sort of thing , when I am ready to ring , I will tell him you give me his number...

I am stripping the engine down as a winter project , I have done a top end re-build before but never ventured stripping the bottom end , I think I will leave the gearbox intact , I think if I try taking that apart I might not be able to get it back together again..

I think I am going to sand blast the engine and spray it up nice..
I will post pics as I get on with it Very Happy

Sickpup I will PM you if that's ok for the chaps number , you don,t look to far away from me , who ever can do it the cheapest for me then I will have to get it done thanks. Thumbs Up
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://hildstrom.com/projects/stickaluminum/
hth
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Michelle L
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well that's very interesting , he is using special rods for aluminium..
When I tried welding aluminium , did not work but the rods was for steel..
Well I will keep the number fizzer but I think I will give it ago myself..
Just have to find out where I can get some rods from..

Thanks for your help guys , grateful to you three chaps Mr. Green Thumbs Up
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:
https://hildstrom.com/projects/stickaluminum/
hth


Interesting.

But he is welding ally plate,not cylinder heads.There is so much more to weld in the case of the OPs project,so I doubt that stick welding will be good enough for the job.

As I said before,John would be able to advise.If he was to say you could get away with stick welding then he may well suggest you have a practice on something else first,then work your way up to more complex stuff.

I have a MIG welder that can weld ally using certain gases,but I would still ask John first.I am an electronics engineer first but always willing to have a go at 99% of jobs (except plastering Confused )

Edit.Well done to Michelle for at least wanting to give it a go.I know of only a few female friends who do not mind getting their hands dirty Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember stinkwheel mentioning a method of aluminium welding using gas and a coated rod. Not sure what. May have been this
You still need gas welding gear though.

You can get electrodes to use with arc welding gear but you would have to buy a lot for one job and it may be expensive for a one off.

As the Pup says, speak to a specialist.

Aluminium is well weld-able though.
It just depends on what needs welded as the heat involved can damage adjacent material.

You can easily manage yourself like this Yeehaw Shocked
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Val
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Michelle L wrote:
Its so badly drilled out I do not think a helicoil will do the trick ,, one of the guys did suggested it but I think its too bad to put a helicoil in it.


FYI Helicoil is the worst thread repair system.

Pretty sure you can fix that very fast without welding by using Wurth Time Sert insert:

https://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/thread-repair-and-reinforcement/thread-repair-system-time-sert
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pic of the damaged thread?

Aluminium is greatly affected by heat as the alloy elements will separate out as it solidifies, making it brittle as well as loosing a lot of strength. It can easily be done, but not recommended for structural/high stressed items. Exhaust header should be ok.

Welding aluminium is a very easy thing to do (melts and flows much better than steel), but there are some things to be aware of. It must have pure argon gas, the correct filler and a very clean joint. Engines are usually cast, so 4043 wire is probably good. For most purposes, MIG is as good as TIG. Its faster and cheaper, and most alu bike frames are made this way (robots but same process). TIG is really only needed for very thin sheet (I can MIG 1mm sheet ok) or looks. A small mig will need engine preheated for any chance at a decent weld.

A decent used mig is about 40 quid on ebay, and you will spend another 50 quid+ on other bits, £50-150 on gas and more to modify the wire feed or get a spool gun.

To sum up, I can MIG aluminuim quite well, and my bike frame has a small crack, but there is no way I would attempt it as the HAZ will lower the strength significantly, I have drilled the ends of the crack to stop it spreading and its been good for 30k miles. If I had my head out and on bench, I would certainly try to weld up exhaust threads myself, with a reasonable chance of success (but a lot of time/effort learning so far). Getting it done professionally would cost more than a used replacement head, and they wont touch it on bike either.


Last edited by kramdra on 21:36 - 24 Sep 2015; edited 1 time in total
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Val wrote:

FYI Helicoil is the worst thread repair system.


Then why is it a specified procedure on some (highly regulated) aircraft parts?
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evenin' all Smile

I like the odd bit of welding every now and then, would I do a head myself? You've gotta be havin' a laff, but I would trust a specialist to do it.

As several have already pointed out, it's a job that you want done properly, they'll be able to check that it's true and make sure that the head doesn't leave the workshop warped.

Pics of said FUBAR stud hole would be nice, then we can all argue the merits of other thread recovery systems for the rest of the evening.
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spikenipple
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Val wrote:

FYI Helicoil is the worst thread repair system.


Then why is it a specified procedure on some (highly regulated) aircraft parts?


Agreed (Pete). Further to this point;

It's crap if you're fred in a shed and don't know how to use it properly.
If you produce a parallel and uniformly-sized hole to the appropriate dimensions and tap it correctly with the appropriate tap, a coil insert in aluminium is by far the best way to achieve a stronger thread than in bare aluminium.

Inserts are used in aluminium to spread the load of the thread over a larger surface area, as the material on it's own is too soft to perform as required.
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Val
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Spikenipple wrote:
It's crap if you're fred in a shed and don't know how to use it properly.
If you produce a parallel and uniformly-sized hole to the appropriate dimensions and tap it correctly with the appropriate tap


We have a little too many ifs here. The advantage of the solid vs coil is:

Its solid - more strenght
Self-lock vs no locking unless you tap it "correctly"
Has a flange which gives you exact placement vs "use it properly"

I am sure if you use it properly and tap it correctly you can do it with duck tape Laughing
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Val wrote:
Spikenipple wrote:
It's crap if you're fred in a shed and don't know how to use it properly.
If you produce a parallel and uniformly-sized hole to the appropriate dimensions and tap it correctly with the appropriate tap


We have a little too many ifs here. The advantage of the solid vs coil is:

Its solid - more strenght


You appear to have missed off this bit of Spikenipple's post...
'Inserts are used in aluminium to spread the load of the thread over a larger surface area, as the material on it's own is too soft to perform as required.'

I, for one, agree with this statement.

IF the hole is small enough to take a helicoil then a half decent DIY bod could repair their head much more easily than trying Ally welding for the first time!
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better would be if manufacturers used a T slot design. They could likely cast the slots to adequate tolerance so it would also make heads cheaper to produce, not needing as many holes drilled and tapped.
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Val
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
Val wrote:
We have a little too many ifs here. The advantage of the solid vs coil is:

Its solid - more strenght


You appear to have missed off this bit of Spikenipple's post...
'Inserts are used in aluminium to spread the load of the thread over a larger surface area, as the material on it's own is too soft to perform as required.'

I, for one, agree with this statement.

IF the hole is small enough to take a helicoil then a half decent DIY bod could repair their head much more easily than trying Ally welding for the first time!


You probably have not read my post I agree the inserts are fine. Time Sert is a solid insert NOT welding.

Just saying that if you use inserts Time Sert looks the better and easier one to use IMO.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Val wrote:
You probably have not read my post I agree the inserts are fine. Time Sert is a solid insert NOT welding.

Just saying that if you use inserts Time Sert looks the better and easier one to use IMO.


DO you realise you have upset some people by mentioning something different? Smile

Time-sert looks puker.

Helicoils are a cnut as the need a specialist tap to cut the thread and they don't lock in place so can creep.
Caterpiller use a patent steel insert not unlike the Time-Sert but they lock using four pins that are hammered in when the insert is flush.

All three have ifs and buts.
I don't particularly favour Helicoils having had to repair housing they were used in. Which are a mess. If the insert can be locked in then failure will be reduced.

If there is not enough meat on the part then welding may be the only option too.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Val wrote:


You probably have not read my post I agree the inserts are fine. Time Sert is a solid insert NOT welding.

Just saying that if you use inserts Time Sert looks the better and easier one to use IMO.


Lol, my bad.
I did see the post on solid inserts but stupidly assumed in the later post that you meant solid as in weld, not solid as in insert!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:44 - 25 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like timeserts better too but there are highly professional situations where helicoil-type inserts are specified. They aren't the 'worst' type of thread repair at all - you choose the repair type that's appropriate to the situation.

Many times you'll find it impossible to use a timesert (try fitting one onto a countersunk hole) and that makes the wire insert the best repair option not the worst.
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Michelle L
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PostPosted: 06:47 - 25 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning everyone , thanks for all your replies Smile ,, I am out very soon for the morning but when I get home I will post some pics as you asked..

They have made a right sh*t job of drilling it out , I mean a 4 year old could have done better..
To me I see it how it is , its a hole , how hard can it be to fill a hole with weld..

But from what people are saying its not that easy , I can weld but I am no pro welder that's a fact Confused..

I will put some pics up this afternoon , see what people say but I think when the time comes I will give John bull a ring..

Have a good day chaps , its nice to wake up and its not pissing down Very Happy
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:57 - 25 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwFRbUKLQ48

OH NOES! He mentions helicoil AND he's using WD40 - must be a right bodger!
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 08:06 - 25 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Welding an engine.. Reply with quote

Val wrote:
FYI Helicoil is the worst thread repair system.


As Pete has said Heli-coils/V-coils do have their place and exhaust studs is one of them.

Exhaust ports are one of the hottest parts of the engine and have extremem expansion contraction cycles. Time serts because of this over time tend to come loose, the thread lock used on them fails. Heli-coils/V-coils on the other hand due to essentially being a square section spring are able to expand and contract with the cylinder head and so don't tend to come loose.

Virually every time sert I have seen done for an exhaust port has failed, I have never seen a heli-coil/v-coil fail in this application.
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Michelle L
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 25 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some pics , its not a round hole , egg shaped Confused
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Michelle L
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 25 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another one..
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